Nandina (invasive) Puller?

[two_bit_score]

Outside of Austin Texas, we have a major infestation of Nandina (Heavenly Bamboo)
This invasive is so bad that cutting it off at ground level is only short term help.

Using a manual "Weed Wrench" that extracts at least some root works better but that is very labor intensive.

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I have also tried "pullers" such as these but the nandina stems are so slick that the chain simply slides off and the stems are too small for the clamp pads to get a purchase.

The "waffel grid" on the weed wrench is wide enough and flat so it can grip several stems at once and pull the root that they are all attached to.

View attachment 670531
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So, the question is does anyone have any suggestions for something that attaches to either the 3 point or bucket that can get a purchase on the nandina such as the pads on the Weed Wrench?

I have found some 3 point hydraulic clamp pads, but they are out of my price range.

I'm thinking about trying to modify the Weed Wrench to mount it on the bucket, but hoping that someone has already designed something better.

Also, does anyone have a suggestion for how to use the above chain puller to increase it's grip on the stems?

Thanks in advance,
Beverly Howard

After reading just your post I have a suggestion for you.

Put all those chains and stuff up.

Get some 2, 4D. Highest strength you can buy at TSC or Callahans. Cut the Nandina off at ground level. I know it grows in clumps. Immediately after you cut a clump use a foam brush or a chip brush and paint the 2,4D full strength on the stumps.

Repeat until you have it all cut and well painted with the 2,4D.

After by spring the below ground stumps and roots will probably be rotted enough you can easily dig them up or just leave them. If any regrowth occurs just repeat the process but you will probably experience very little RE growth.


TBS

 

[two_bit_score]

FWIW, fire and poisons (especially roundup) are not options...

I'm still recovering from stage 3 cancer and it would not surprise me if roundup was a factor despite being extremely careful when I used it.

...and just over a month ago we had fires on all sides of us and were packing up for a repeat of the 2011 Bastrop fires when we finally got rain.

Thanks again,
Beverly

I thought you might have an objection to using herbicides. You will have a very difficult time getting ALL the roots out by pulling them up. If you leave ANY below ground they will come back. Maybe you can get someone who is comfortable handling the 2,4D and will paint the stumps for you.

Not sure how big an area is covered by the nandina but if you could cut it and stack it up away from the area and then go inside while your helper does the painting that might be a safe way to do it .

As a last resort if you are absolutely not going to use a herbicide you could try a strong saltwater solution to soak the cut stumps. Mix a little dish soap with it to act as a surfactant.

Good luck!

 

[Wyobuckaroo]

If you can wrap the choker chain, dog collar type puller twice around the brush clump it will hold better..

Cutting it off and painting the stub ends with a product like Tordon or Round Up half with water should kill the root system.

 

[bevhoward]

Wonderful suggestions... all of them.

IMHO, well structured and well run peer to peer forums are the best things to come out of the internet, and tractorbynet is one of the best... thanks to everyone.

How bad is it? We've got just under 2.7 acres and this is a small sampling... primarily in places where the bushhog can't get to.



The backhoe (doh!) is a great suggestion and I will revisit the poison options.

>> your helper <<

She's in the picture above and her feelings on the subject are stronger than mine ;-)

Thanks for everyone's suggestions... time to work and I will report back.

Thanks again,
Beverly

 

[todd92]

Any invasive plant that spreads via rhizomes (Canadian Thistle and Chinese Sumac on my property) can never be eradicated by pulling, tilling or selective herbicides like 2,4D. Nothing will work other than Glyphosate. Cutting and painting the exposed trunk will have limited success promoting uptake into the root system. Best to spray all of the leaves while the plant is actively growing so the plant can move the Glyphosate into the roots. If you don't completely kill the roots, it will come back relentlessly.

 

[bevhoward]

>> Best to spray all of the leaves while the plant is actively growing so the plant can move the Glyphosate into the roots. If you don't completely kill the roots, it will come back relentlessly. <<

Again, excellent information... just looked up Glyphosate and will pursue that path.

Experience with nandina has shown that spraying leaves with a herbicide is not effective as it is with most plants but, perhaps applying it to freshly cut stems will be an option.

Thanks,
Beverly

 

[todd92]

Just so you know, Glyphosate is the generic name for Roundup, which you have expressed concerns about. I use it, but only with a hand sprayer on calm days and I'm careful handling it. But I'm also careful handling the fungicides and insecticides I need to use in the 3pt sprayer for my orchards. Used properly, they are safe.

 

[Mat4644]

We just keep it mowed short and eventually it runs out of reserves and gets choked out with grass. Usually in one full growing season.

 

[fried1765]

Dont suppose you have a backhoe on your machine? I use my BH and a 6' trenching bucket to keep my clumping bamboo under control. It would definitley dig the plant you posted out easily.

A 6 ft. trenching bucket?

 

[bevhoward]

>> A 6 ft. trenching bucket? <<

Yea, I don't have one of those yet, but I do have a 6 inch one that I can experiment with <grin>

Beverly