Need advice ASAP on fitting slip joints on 2" pipe.

[milkman636]

I wouldn't presume to say which pipe would be universally the very best.

The black polyethylene pipe can be purchased in continuous rolls made to order. About 12 years ago I ordered a 550' continous roll of heavy walled 1.25" rated @ 200psi to tie my house to a new water line at the road. It came sealed at the ends and lightly pressurized. The only buried joint in the entire run was a compression fitting at the road where the township tied me into their meter. After back filling the run it was nice to feel the rush of air as I cut into the pipe for the compression fittings under the house.

That pipe has been problem free for 12 years of daily use. I used the same stuff for my parents' house 20 years ago and they have been issue free also.

Based on my experience I would not hesitate to use polyethelene pipe for underground water line. Just spring a little extra and order it from a plumbing/pipe supply in the 200 psi variety and made to length.

 

[boggen]

water hammer can be a pipe killer. more so at the joints, and when water makes a sudden change in direction example 90 degree fitting, or through a Tee.

once water gets moving in one direction. and then you suddenly and quickly shut the valve. the water in the pipe has "momentum" and that force has to be dealt with. water hammer, is describing that spike of force, that stops water from flowing and to stop the momentum of the water.

you can fairly easily build yourself a DIY water hammer resistor. come up off the pipe with a Tee, and go straight up into the air. with a piece of pipe, and then put a cap on end of pipe. and install a tire nipple (putting air into tires) at the top. keeping explanation simple. air compresses, water does not. when you shut the valve quickly on a water faucet or like. the air in the pipe sticking up into the air. will compress and will take some of the force (momentum) of water. and reduce the force put on joints.

in your case, i might suggest placing a water hammer resistor. near the house and instead of 90 into the house. use a TEE instead. and come off tee with going into house and other side of tee the water hammer resistor. size and how much PSI to pressure the water hammer resistor. not a clue there is equations you can find on internet, or call a local plumber they should be able to figure it out. or sell you something.

================
pressure testing fairly easy to do. you can pick up test plugs at nearly every hardware store. to plug up one end of the pipe. and then get some fittings to attach a pressure gauge, and a valve to hook up air compressor, and a valve to fill pipe up with water.

all plumbers should have stuff to pressure test plumbing in there vans.

 

[Whitnel]

If you are going to pressure test your line make sure you pour kickers at the ends of your line. If you just put a plug in the ends is will cause a joint to separate back in the line causing a leak. The water pressure will be trying to push the plug out, you must have something to push back on the plug to keep the line from moving.