Need advice on a larger chainsaw for an older guy.

[John_Mc]

I used the Timberline for a while, but found I couldn't get the grinding burr to consistently rest on the bottom of the chain. After a few sharpens, the undercut of the cutting tooth disappeared (Angle X), and came closer to a right angle over time.

View attachment 723976

So I've gone back to using a file with the original file holder, and flat file with the depth gauge, which came with the Stihl 026 all those years ago.

That said, the Timberline is a clever bit of design for maintaining the teeth at the same length, so it's still in the tool kit.

That's interesting. I've only used a Timberline sharpener once, and it did an excellent job. It was just too time consuming for me.

BTW, it is not necessary to maintain the teeth at the same length if yu use a progressive depth gauge tool to set the gauge height, since it customizes the depth gauge height to it's individual associated tooth. The Stihl and the Oregon depth gauge tools as well as the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpening tool (which is actually a rebadged Pferd Chainsharp CSX) also do not use a progressive depth gauge method, so need to keep all the teeth the same length for best performance.

 

[fishdrivel]

That's interesting. I've only used a Timberline sharpener once, and it did an excellent job. It was just too time consuming for me.

BTW, it is not necessary to maintain the teeth at the same length if yu use a progressive depth gauge tool to set the gauge height, since it customizes the depth gauge height to it's individual associated tooth. The Stihl and the Oregon depth gauge tools as well as the Stihl 2-in-1 sharpening tool (which is actually a rebadged Pferd Chainsharp CSX) also do not use a progressive depth gauge method, so need to keep all the teeth the same length for best performance.

After cutting down the Great Sahara Forest, I have found that you are correct. Not every cutter has to be the same length.
I have also found that any deviation from all the teeth being the same will take you further from optimum performance.
There are some chains that while there is a lot of tooth left, it is better to start fresh and keep things as even as possible in your future sharpening habits.

 

[John_Mc]

After cutting down the Great Sahara Forest, I have found that you are correct. Not every cutter has to be the same length.
I have also found that any deviation from all the teeth being the same will take you further from optimum performance.
There are some chains that while there is a lot of tooth left, it is better to start fresh and keep things as even as possible in your future sharpening habits.

Deviation from all teeth being the same length will certainly adversely affect performance if you are NOT using a progessive tool to set the depth gauge height.

That's the point of using the progressive depth gauge tool: You can have teeth of varying length without sacrificing performance. I've posted detailed descriptions of why this is in a couple of threads here on TBN. The short version is: A progressive depth gauge tool customizes each depth gauge to it's associated tooth, regardless of the length of that tooth. When this is done correctly, each tooth takes the ame sized "bite" out of the log, regardless of varying tooth lengths.

The "non-progressive" type of tool (basically the same as using a straightedge set across multiple teeth with a feeler gauge to measure down to the depth gauge) averages a line between two or more teeth - the depth gauge height is referenced off that line, rather than just the associated tooth. Since the teeth are sloped back, if one tooth is longer than the other, it will throw off the height of the depth gauge in relation to it's associated tooth. This results in some teeth taking bigger botes out of the log than others.

 

[N80]

Update from OP: So far have decided not to get bigger saw. Son-in-law handling big saw stuff for now.

I did order a full chisel chain for the MS 271. Have not put it on yet. I will soon. I have a large-ish white oak down and will need to do some bucking and large limb removal.

 

[MossRoad]

Update from OP: So far have decided not to get bigger saw. Son-in-law handling big saw stuff for now.

I did order a full chisel chain for the MS 271. Have not put it on yet. I will soon. I have a large-ish white oak down and will need to do some bucking and large limb removal.

Why get a new saw when you have young labor?

I remember being 'invited' by my wife to help my father in-law and her uncle do firewood when I was in my late 20s. They were in their 60s. It took me many decades to figure out how old dudes in their 60s drinking copious amounts of beer can outwork a young man in his 20s. Many decades.

 

[JDZ735M]

Might be money better spent buying the young guy a new saw.

 

[dodge man]

22 pages and you’re not getting a new saw? That’s a letdown. I guess half those pages were asking if you tried sharpening your chain though.

 

[N80]

22 pages and you’re not getting a new saw? That’s a letdown. I guess half those pages were asking if you tried sharpening your chain though.

I know.

I tried all the logical gymnastics that I could to justify a bigger saw but in the end being a lazy Scottish tightwad prevailed.

But, one of these days I’ll sharpen the chain on the MS 271. Maybe that will help.

 

[JDZ735M]

I know.

I tried all the logical gymnastics that I could to justify a bigger saw but in the end being a lazy Scottish tightwad prevailed.

But, one of these days I’ll sharpen the chain on the MS 271. Maybe that will help.

As long as you are happy, have it your way.

 

[Randy Gann]

Not exactly on subject, but getting the younger family member to handle the big saw sounds smart to me. When my 2 boys were in there teens I taught them to split wood using a maul, sledge hammer and wedges. Wood was and still is our primary heat. All the wood was split by hand. When they grew up and moved out, I finally purchased a hydraulic splitter. They asked why didn’t I get one when they were younger. Told them I did not need one then since I had 2 splitters already.