Need advice on building roller

[ptexer]

I once bought 1 inch round steel (new) and 1 inch pillow blocks. The rod was slightly egged and wouldn't go through the blocks. I had to turn on lathe. I would take pillow blocks with me when buying the steel to check fit.

 

[cowski]

if you are going to use a rod or pipe you could use a wooden bearing.i have a old packer that came from the factory with wooden bearings.i use bodock for the bearings when i replaced them.bodock is real hard wood and takes a long time to rot.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

The 1 1/2 threads on the outside will be about 1 9/10 diameter.

You cannot weld that fitting into the tank, it is mallaeble iron. You would have to bronze weld it, either arc or O/A. You need to use a coupling that is steel. They will be sooth on the outside, if the coupling has ridges and end bosses it is also malleable. You can get steel couplings at the big box stores but not other steel fittings. Threaded pipe comes standard with a coupling on one end. Decide the size drain and vent you want, get the coupling and cut out the hole size of the OD of the fitting. A hole saw will not work on that rounded end. Follow my previous thread on this back aways. Burn it out or sawzall it. Old pipefitter talking here.

Ron

 

[deereman75]

For the wood bearings, an old blacksmith book I have says fruit wood is best for it. Something like apple, pear, plum, those sorts of things. Also, drill a hole through the bearing, so you can keep it greased, that will make it last longer. Finally, drill the hole so the shaft just fits in it, and heat up the shaft a bit, and char the hole a bit, this will make it spin better.
Edit, forgot one part. Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

I once bought 1 inch round steel (new) and 1 inch pillow blocks. The rod was slightly egged and wouldn't go through the blocks. I had to turn on lathe. I would take pillow blocks with me when buying the steel to check fit.

Don't use mild steel rod, it is not always perfectly round and bends easier. Use cold rolled steel, it is round and stronger. That is what most shafts (axels) are made of for this type loading. Higher grade than that you cannot afford for a project of this nature. That is why in an earlier thread I stated to use short pieces of shafting welded into the end of the pipe through the tank. The only stress point here is at the point where it is welded to the tank ends, that section through the tank is just to keep it all linded up straight. I assume the OP does not have a machine shop. If you machine it then you have to cut down to the next standard size bearing. The cam lock ring pillow blocks are pretty good and available in sealed ball bearings (no lubing) and not that expensive. Think about a flange mounted bearing on the towing bars.

Ron

 

[weldermike]

For the wood bearings, an old blacksmith book I have says fruit wood is best for it. Something like apple, pear, plum, those sorts of things. Also, drill a hole through the bearing, so you can keep it greased, that will make it last longer. Finally, drill the hole so the shaft just fits in it, and heat up the shaft a bit, and char the hole a bit, this will make it spin better.
Edit, forgot one part. Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

Pretty cool, Good to know!

 

[Ruark]

A hole saw will not work on that rounded end.

Why not? I know of many people who have used bi-metal hole saws to drill holes through 1/2" plate. Go slow, use lots of oil.

Not trying to argue or anything, but it doesn't seem like bending would be a problem with 1 1/2" or 2" mild steel. Remember, the bearing is going to be almost smack against the end of the tank; it won't have much leverage on the axle.

No, I don't have a machine shop.. I have a 220V AC welder, an angle grinder, sawzall, HD drill, all Milwaukee. That's about it.

 

[SandburRanch]

Rip cut the piece in half, and clamp them together, before you drill the hole, it needs to be a two piece bearing.

:thumbsup: and then as it wears, if it ever does, the two halves can be swapped if necessary, or milled if too loose or shimmed if too tight.