Need advice on cutting fallen tree

[square1]

Unless there's a huge crown with big limbs pushing the whole trunk toward the base or applying a twisting force, that tree isn't going anywhere but down (and it may need help with that) when you cut it. I'd make the cuts I've added to your pic. When you get close to connecting cut two to cut one I'd stop and smell the roses (size up what the tree is doing) every couple of seconds. Once you've cut through you'll likely need some help from the tractor to separate the pieces. Get a rope on the section out in the trail before you begin to cut so you don't have to get close to it after it's cut.



Then cut off blocks to clear the trail.

All personal protection mentioned earlier applies.

EDIT TO ADD: Cut 1 should be a minimum of 1/4 and maximum of 1/3 through the tree. The deeper the cut, the more control you have when making the final cut through.
Smell the roses = Watch the saw kerf to see which way the tree is going to go when you cut through. My guess is it the kerf will open on the bottom of cut 1 and try to close at the top of cut two (the wedge will hold it open). If the kerf begins to open toward you, be even more cautious, that means the tree has tension that may cause it to come your way. This also increases the likelihood of kick back when the opposite side closes on the end your saw bar.
Rope (must be a stout one i.e. 3/4") could also be a chain, heavy strap, or cable. All these come with their own set of cautions to avoid snapping back at you if broken, although I don't see enough weight or tension in the pictures for that to be a huge concern.

 

[fishheadbob]

This is dangerous, no two ways about it. All of the above suggestions are good I'll add two more. Cut a few 12 inch diameter poles and slide them crossways under the main trunk, if the trunk does something unexpected and falls prematurely it will land across the logs and not your body. You may have mud on your rear end, but the paramedics won't be there. Try not to trip over the poles.
The other thing I'd try is to first cut a notch into the top quarter of where you plan on undercutting, less chance of pinching, but bring a second saw anyway. Good luck and be SAFE.

 

[Egon]

One old rotten tree.

Hook up rope or chain to the top of the tree and pull with the tractor. You may be able to twist it off the base and lay it out in the trail. Might have to cut some upper limbs to do this. Note that the limbs can also pinch the bar.

If that doesn't work do some some limbing down to the point the tractor can lift the log. Cut it there and repeat process till tree is chuncked up and out of the way.

When limbing some work is required to clear your work area as you go along.

Remember one portion of the log may roll as you are cutting it off. Means clear work area as you go along.

 

[MacLawn]

After seeing pic, I'd have that thing cut up in a New York second. Wish I was near you Fred, we'd get that thing done! No need to start cutting at top with that one. Do kind of like old square showed above, but I'd go more toward the center of the little road and undercut very slowly watching for any binding as I cut. I've cut a heap of trees in that situation, nary an issue. Of course, I've been tree cutting many a year. Even so, I am very careful! Taking it slow and easy. Some of this is kind of like a sixth sense learned by experience.

 

[rrrkkk]

Good god just cut from the bottom at the trunk end. And let it fall, it appears to me to be a wild cherry, most that big are hollow to an extent.

 

[square1]

Good god just cut from the bottom at the trunk end. And let it fall

While that may work out alright in this instance, it is an unsafe technique. Any recommendation should take into consideration all potential risk. If the OP felt comfortable doing that he probably would not have asked for advice.

I'm sure the logger killed in this video would love the chance to reconsider how simple it is to cut loose a suspended tree.

 

[hslogger]

Your bar is twenty inches. It is plenty. My recommendation is as follows. Stay away from the splintered butt for now. It is fractured and just going to give you fits with stressed broken fiber and wood. In the middle of the road make a cut from the top down five or six inches. Then swing your saw down the back and do the same. Then climb over it and make another cut in the back at an angle so you will cut out a pie piece.

Now go the front side, make a shallow undercut, again make a side cut and take out a shallow pie.
Now from the front, make a cut with your nose down from the top to bottom. Then make an angle cut from the side and take out this pie.

If you have made some deep cuts without getting pinched, you likely have " crippled" this so that you can put a chain on it and run it to your tractor a safe distance away, and pull it toward you and it will break and fall to the ground.

Tension and distance are two factors that will mess up even the most experienced sawyer. I fell and bucked timber in the PNW for decades. My experience gave me the ability to buck NASTY stuff, and occaisionally it was too nasty, and that is when I would cripple it, mark it for the rigging crew so they would know it was still coupled and not broke free. If you aren't comfortable with the task at hand, man, don't do it.

This is not a good time to experiment with a bunch of wedges and axes if you aren't 100 percent savvy. Another thing, to point out, I have no idea why people by short fat plastic wedges. There aren't good for this kind of work. LONG Thin wedges don't get spit out and you have more control and power with tapered wedges.That is the truth.

 

[motownbrowne]

If you aren't comfortable with the task at hand, man, don't do it.

This is the most important thing anyone has said on this thread.

 

[Freds]

Hi guys. I lived.
Sorry for the late response, I did not get any email notifications there had been more posts in this thread.

I just finished the job. One day was too hot and muggy, the next way to windy and rainy... I wanted a calm, somewhat cool day and today was it.
There was still enough tree attached to the stump that I could not budge it. Not with the top still attached anyway, so I cut it.

I put my loader against the large exposed portion and locked the brake. This was in case it rocked back. Then I got a couple feet away from where it had splintered and made a downward cut, drove a wedge in, then cut it some more. About halfway. I then undercut it about a couple inches offset. When the two cuts were across from each other I stopped, fired up the tractor and pushed. It split right at the cut and then that short section twisted it off where it was splintered at the stump. The large section fell straight down, staying a little ways off the ground. I put a couple logs under it and cut it the same way two more times to have two somewhat manageable 5-6' sections of log.

It was rotted at the base in the center like some of you had mentioned. That made the first cut go really fast, but the next two took just a little more effort. Nothing I had to strain against or feel unsafe doing, just taking my time so nothing would bind.

Thanks again for all the support. I really appreciate it.