Need advice on gussets / bracing

[Underdog57]

I want to weld some bracing and/ or gussets on the dog ears on my loader curl linkage (I've seen several bent badly!)

1st idea:
I was thinking of welding a straight piece of 3/4" x 3/4" solid bar across the bend in the steel from pin to pin.

2nd idea:
Bending some 3/8" thick x 3/4" flat bar to follow the curve and welding a few triangle gussets to the flat bar and bracket.

The brackets on the loader are 3/8" thick. I don't want go any higher than 3/4".

I have a 300 amp DC stick welder with a 6010 port and would like to use either 6010 or 6011 1/8" rods ( have lots of them ) I do have some 7018 but it's old and it hasn't been stored properly.

What do you think? How would you do it? And how many amps would you start with?

 

[jaxs]

I believe 2nd idea would aford most streingth/stability of the two options. 6010 or 6011 is the right rod.

 

[Oldpath05]

I prefer 6011 than 6010, I think it washes out better, 105-120 amps.

 

[Sberry]

The machines dial isn't always accurate. Those electrodes run about 90-95 correctly. 1/8 lo hy about 115-120. Storage with the 7018 not so fussy with light material and single pass.

 

[jthibodeau89]

Idea #2. Going straight across from pin to pin may cause interference issues.

JD changed to cast steel outboard dogleg links with the 300cx. The cast style has a flange included in the inside corner to stiffen it. The inboard link is still flat plate.

My 430 loader's dog legs are flat plate on both sides of the boom. Plan to add 3/8"~1/2" flanges to my dogleg links like the newer cast links.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Idea #2. Going straight across from pin to pin may cause interference issues.

JD changed to cast steel outboard dogleg links with the 300cx. The cast style has a flange included in the inside corner to stiffen it. The inboard link is still flat plate.

My 430 loader's dog legs are flat plate on both sides of the boom. Plan to add 3/8"~1/2" flanges to my dogleg links like the newer cast links.

This is the best idea, bend the 3/8" plate and weld it to the outside edge of the outside link. One side of each link should be sufficient to adequately strengthen the set.

Welding structural steel with 6011 or 6010 is not the best rod for the process but might work for a while. Avoid leaving any undercut which is hard to do with 60xx rod. 60XXrods are a bit brittle and dont stretch like LH rods to and tend to crack with any stress put on the weld.

E 7018 would be my preference for welding and since AWS D1.1 doesn't allow 60XX rods on a structural steel weld, then it is a good bet that there is a reason that the Code specifies 70XX low hydrogen rods for fabrication on mild steel (A36 plate) which is likely the material used in the loader.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Also in regards to your 7018 rods. If they arent rusty then they can be reconditioned. Just pop then in your oven at highest setting (500F) and let them cook for at least 2 hours after oven has reached temperature. NOTE: just put them in a cold oven and bring it up to temp, let rods soak at 500F for at least 2 hours (More wont hurt at all) and then allow to cool down to 250F before removing, then use immediately. While this isnt the recommended length of time for reconditioning (more time required), it should be sufficient for home use.
You can get all your pieces fabbed up while the rods are cooking off all the moisture so you will be ready to weld immediately after removing the rods from the oven. Remember, unless they are LM (low moisture) rated rods, they immediately start absorbing moisture after they cool to ambient temp and therefor should be used not more than 4 hours max. after removing from the oven.

 

[mikester]

I don't understand what you are trying to do. Where are they bent and where's the problem?

BTW its nice to see NH has beefed up the pins and bosses.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I think the OP is trying to prevent a bend from happening because he has seen them bent on other FEL's. I dont think I have ever seen the dog leg bent, but I have seen some cylinder rods bent.

 

[true temper]

Sounds like he wants an excuse to molest His tractor.

 

[jthibodeau89]

The dog leg actually is not subjected to much load. The straight links to the bucket take the brunt of the forces. I had planned to repair and reinforce the original fabricated QD holders on my 430. But then i determined that i could retrofit the cast steel 300cx parts with just a little work.

 

[Underdog57]

FEL Link Repair

A while back I did something stupid. I attached a tine bucket with 42 inch tines to the FEL, stuck the tips of the tines into the dirt (slightly) and backed up. :duh: The increased leverage of the tine bucket, mixed with my stupidity, bent the crap out of the loader links. But I didn't even...

www.tractorbynet.com

Another member (Avenger) had it happen recently ^ and that is the second time I seen it posted in the LS forum. I bought a 470# stump bucket and thought maybe I should reinforce them? They are 3/8" thick, and I haven't bent them yet, but Avengers pictures scared me!

 

[Underdog57]

This is the best idea, bend the 3/8" plate and weld it to the outside edge of the outside link. One side of each link should be sufficient to adequately strengthen the set.

Welding structural steel with 6011 or 6010 is not the best rod for the process but might work for a while. Avoid leaving any undercut which is hard to do with 60xx rod. 60XXrods are a bit brittle and dont stretch like LH rods to and tend to crack with any stress put on the weld.

E 7018 would be my preference for welding and since AWS D1.1 doesn't allow 60XX rods on a structural steel weld, then it is a good bet that there is a reason that the Code specifies 70XX low hydrogen rods for fabrication on mild steel (A36 plate) which is likely the material used in the loader.

Thanks Gary, what about bending the flat bar and just go down the middle of the bracket and welding both sides? Thanks for the advice about drying the 7018 rods, I will do that!

 

[jthibodeau89]

Yes, in the back drag position the dogleg links are loaded pretty high due to the bucket links being almost 90° to the curl cyl axis. I wasn't thinking about that configuration. The load will try to lengthen the distance between the pins on the dogleg and buckle the elbow. I suspect this is why the flange is added to the inside edge of the dogleg in the 300cx pic.

 

[ovrszd]

Definitely observe the brackets in question during operation. That shape is there for a reason. Would be a shame to goober up a brace and then bend the bracket first time you full dump or some other position.

 

[jaxs]

Good point ovrszd. One more reason to mock it up with light material and tack in place before doing actual repair.

 

[Underdog57]

Finally got around to do this project, bent some 3/8" flat bar and struck it together with 1/8" 7018 at 160 amps on my Everlast PA300. As you can see, I don't weld very often, but it's stronger than it was.