Need advice on re-surfacing gravel road.

[Bigfootconcepts]

I have an old gravel road which has been over grown my grass/weeds and in some spots is not wide enough. It appears to have a solid enough base put down years ago. Should I scrap off the top layer where the grass grows before adding the new top layer? Or should I just put a new toping layer on top? I plan to use 5/8" minus limestone crusher run as the topping. Also how thick should I make the new layer?

 

[alwaysworking]

Yes. Peel off the organics and before placing the new crusher run. Thickness is up to you, but I have never gone more than a 3 inch lift on an existing road.

 

[jaxs]

I never remove existing material before adding rock. I realize most people recommend occasionally loosening material then regrading but I believe they only do it because they see it done to public roads. Public road contractors spend 3x as much labor and material as necessary because tax payers will pay and it's job security. I'm acquainted with most people that work for state and county road crews in my area and never see them tearing their personal driveways up like a sow's nest in the name of improvement. If using crushed material I use larger than 5/8 rock to prevent sticking between tire treads. Washed river gravel doesn't stay between tread near as bad.

 

[jyoutz]

I never disturb a hard base on a road. I always add material and work the new material as far as grading. The only time I would cut into solid base material is if reshaping or cutting out potholes is necessary.

 

[jb1390]

I have an old gravel road which has been over grown my grass/weeds and in some spots is not wide enough. It appears to have a solid enough base put down years ago. Should I scrap off the top layer where the grass grows before adding the new top layer? Or should I just put a new toping layer on top? I plan to use 5/8" minus limestone crusher run as the topping. Also how thick should I make the new layer?

When I regrade driveways, I generally start with box blade, and peel/mix the top layer. I go as deep as necessary to cut out any washout, potholes, and get a good mix of fines and stone if the fines have been washed away in spots. I find that the grass will float to the top during this process and it's easy enough to scrape out at the end of a box blade run, though if it's thick enough, you could take a thin pass first.

After I've mixed the base that was there, I shape what I can, then tailgate spread new stone as needed and finish grade with the land plane.

As to how much work is enough, roads take a lot more work than driveways due to the speed and quantity of traffic. They have to be constructed better from the beginning, and they live a harsher life. You can in many cases make shortcuts on a driveway, but that will depend on what you need the driveway to do, the types of loads it will need to support, and weather conditions it will need to work in.

As far as how much material to add, you want the driveway higher than surrounding ground to support drainage. This again depends on what you need the driveway to do. 5/8" crusher run is a nice top coat choice.

 

[nyone]

I wouldnt remove material but I would loosen the top few inches of material to accept new material. Blending the old/new makes it so your top layer isnt just pushed off. This is very important on hills and turns.

If you dont want weeds in the new material I suggest useing Glyphosate. Weeds on a stone driveway just add organic material making weeds grow faster.

 

[LD1]

Pictures would be worth a thousand words.

Just what is the construction of the existing drive? If it has large stone base (3"-4" rock) and topped with something already like the crusher run (3/4" minus) or whatever.....regrading the top couple of inches to knock out the organic....but not remove material may save a truckload or two of stone vs removing. Just dont get into the larger stone of the base layer.

Or just mow it low, spray roundup, and top-coat and be done

 

[Rockbadchild]

Why are you adding material other then making the road wider? is it to remove that vegetation? is that vegetation bothering you?

I would grade the existing road just to make sure it is properly crown, removing the tire tracks and pot holes. It will be easier to grade the new material with a uniform base plus it will stay that way longer with a proper base. I would use the road material to make the road wider (if that's the goal) instead of putting new material in the ditch to make it wider. If your goal is to remove that vegetation then I would scrape it off with the grader and deeper then I would to simply make a nice crown and uniform road, I would scrape the left and move the material to the right with multiple pass until I get all the roots out then move all that material back to the left and do the same. If you decide to use that material to make the road wider then push it or haul it to where the road need to be wider.

 

[dirttoys]

Certainly could have more detail of what you want to accomplish. That said, drainage is always the main thing, leave what you have, and go up. Get the road bed above the ditches as much as is practical. Removing the existing, will need to be replaced with purchased material. Breaking up the existing (other than getting to intended grade, will mix the material, causing dirt/vegetation prematurely.

Best,

ed