Buying Advice need advice on replacing seals..

[JRJ]

at the steering knuckles on my 1510D. They are weeping badly and the whole assembly appears to have loosened up. I have made it as far as removing the tierods and draining the fluid. My question is what is the best method of removing the large nut below the steering arm? I plan to use an old screw driver and a hammer tapping on the ridges to spin the nut. Is this a reasonable technique or is there a better way? Also, any advice you may have once I get in there would be appreciated. I already have the diagram from Hoye Tractor. Thanks.

 

[HoyeTractor]

You won't need to mess with that nut if you are just replacing the knuckle seals. Just remove the 4 bolts that hold the steering arm on and jack up the front of the tractor. The whole thing will fall off.

If you need to remove it you can tap on it like you said but be careful. Those little cast tabs are fragile. We made a special tool to take those loose because we had one that was very stuck. I bet a big pipe wrench wold also work.

Once inside- the big seal will pry out with a big screwdriver. The axle seal will be a little tougher but you will want to replace it while you are that far. The nut can be hard to get loose. If you have a good vise it wil be a big help. Use the tapping method you described. Then the axle will slide out of the gear and bearing. Sometimes it can be very tough to get out.


Aaron
Parts@HoyeTractor.com
(940)592-0181

 

[JRJ]

Thanks for the info. I see what you mean now. I took the bolts off the steering arm and the bottom fell off of the knuckle. No need to remove the castle nut. I am having trouble getting the seal out though. I need a bigger vice.

Do you have any advice on getting to the smaller axle seal. It looks like I have to drive a drift pin out of the ring gear but beyond that I'm not sure. Also, there appears to be some play in the axle bearings. Is a little play normal or do I have a problem here. There was a bit of dirt inside the knuckle.

Thanks again for the info.

 

[Cord]

I'm not sure exactly how simular your axle is to my 1110d's was, but I encountered simular issues when working on my axle. On the axle stubs there is a castle nut with the drift pin. One one nut the drift pin was gone and the nut had loosened up. The bearings were still good, so I only replaced the seals while I had the axle so far apart. In fact, I replaced every seal in the axle. With a couple of bearings that needed to be replace, it cost me just over $100. The bearings that were the worst were the little caged needle bearings which located the vertical pin through the knuckle. The cages had broken, but the bearings hadn't yet fallen out. Thankfully I caught them before any damage was done.