Need Advice Regarding Aluminum Thread Repair On My JD 2520

[coollx]

I have a JD 2520 tractor with a JD46 backhoe and need to switch the rear mount for the 3 point hitch and the rear mount for the backhoe a few times each year.

When I installed the backhoe mount this summer I discovered one the threaded bolt holes that holds the mount to the tractor was stripped. Not to the point that the bolt couldn't be threaded in but that I couldn't torque the bolt very close to the recommended spec.

Now that I took the backhoe off for the winter so I can install my front mount snowblower and weight box I need to switch the mount and install the 3 point mount and figure it's a good time to repair the stripped thread. I've fixed stripped threads in cast iron with heilcoils in the past and have had good success but have never repaired a stripped thread in an aluminum housing like our John Deere tractors.

So I'm looking for advice from others that have repaired stripped threads in aluminum on their JD tractors and what they recommend and have had good success with. (i.e Heilcoil, Time sert, devcon or other methods but not welding)

Thanks for your help

Dom

 

[beenthere]

Can you post up a pic of the bolt and location in question?
Was it always, as far as you know, torqued to spec?

Sounds like a tough task, but wish you good luck with a fix. Maybe an oversize replacement bolt.

 

[Rocky J]

I use the Helicoil type repair. I read it is stronger then the original thread.
Amazon.com: 8milelake 131 Piece Helicoil Type Thread Repair Kit - M5 M6 M8 M1 M12: Automotive

 

[coollx]

Maybe an oversize replacement bolt

Using oversize bolts are usually not recommended so I'm going to try to avoid using one.

I'm leaning toward using a Helicoil insert so I can use a standard size bolt.

Any other thoughts?

 

[flyerdan]

Another +1 on the helicoils. I'd actually go one step further and punch out and replace all the affected aluminium threads with inserts, the galvanic action will compromise them sooner or later, so might as well do them all while you're set up for it.

 

[kennyd]

A pic would be great, I am not familiar with anything the needs to be bolted/unbolted to swap the backhoe for the 3PH. I have the 46 on my 4110 which is virtually the same build as you 2520.

 

[topstoy]

I agree with Kennyd, I have the 46 BH on my 2520 and all I have to take off is the lower link bars when I put on my BH. 5 Min job. No bolts, just pins.

 

[Tx Jim]

Ditto on using Heli-coil

 

[coollx]

I am not familiar with anything the needs to be bolted/unbolted to swap the backhoe for the 3PH. I have the 46 on my 4110 which is virtually the same build as you 2520

kennyd and topstoy, I think you guys are right and you may have made my life a little easier!

When I bought my 2520 new it came with the backhoe already mounted and when the JD dealer dropped it off he gave me the lower link bars along with the standard drawbar mount and said if I take the backhoe off and put the lower link bars on I need to change the drawbar mount to the additional one they gave me. I didn't question him so I've been switching the drawbar mount each time I put the backhoe on and take it off. My bad!

I still have to fix the stripped thread, but I learned something today.

Thank you everyone

 

[Labrat]

I've always used Helicoil in the past but last year I had to do a thread repair on a bolt that required 150 ft-lbs of torque so I decided to give Time Cert a try. I was very impressed with the robustness of the insert as it is solid instead of like a spring and I like the locking mechanism as well.

Time Cert is now my first choice for thread repair.