need advice replacing pto slip clutch plates

[ampsucker]

howdy all! did a search but couldn't find this particular tidbit of info.

just picked up a slightly abused howse tiller. the previous owner smoked the friction material on the pto slip clutch pretty badly. i called howse to get the parts, but they sales rep was pretty clueless on the replacement.

the slip clutch looks to be pretty standard from my limited experience. 8 spring loaded bolts hold two pieces of friction material between the end plates. there is a thin piece of steel sandwiched on each half of the clutch and the friction material appears to be bonded on one side to each of these plates allowing the other side to spin against the ends and transfer the force.

when taking the thing apart, one side had big chunks missing out of the friction pad - definitely needed replacement. the other side looks to be intact and in good condition. i'm going to try to salvage that side and save the 20 bucks howse wants for each friction pad.

so here's my question (finally...): the friction material seems to be bonded to this thin metal plate. do i need some type of special adhesive to stick the new friction pad to the other plate? or, does the existing one just appear to be bonded to the plate due to it heating up when the previous owner roasted it? perhaps they aren't bonded with anything at all from the factory and just compression fit together until heated to high temps by careless owners?

in the photo, you can see the assembly on the top left has the good condition friction material "bonded" to it. the plate on the right has the bad friction material - half missing - also apparantly bonded to it.

i'm new to this game, so any advice would be appreciated!

i think i have a pretty good handle on how to adjust the thing from the manual and from other posts. just need to know how to put it together properly.

thanks,

amp

 

[ampsucker]

bump? fwj? anyone?

need to place order tomorrow and hoping to get a solid answer on this one.

thanks,

amp

 

[atgreene]

I did my Woods rotary mower the other day.

I'm willing to bet it is the same clutch, as my Woods disks fit other implements I've had.

Clean all the plates to bare metal. Insert both of the new disks and tighten the bolts against the springs. Use a torque wrench to set them all the same. There should be nothing bonded to the faces of the clutch. If needed, tap on the bonded material with a hammer and it should fall right off.

FWIW, try to keep the clutch covered from the weather when you're not using it. Rust is the biggest enemy to mine.

Good luck.

 

[ampsucker]

can i ask where you got the woods disks and how much they cost?

howse wants 21 bucks for EACH pad. 42 plus 14 shipping for two little friction pads seemed a bit high to me. i'm thinking maybe TSC would carry them?

good tip on using the torque wrench and keeping the assembly covered. the last owner just had it sitting out in a field and it was rusted a bit even though it's only two years old. i cleaned everything up and repainted and put anti-sieze on the bolt threads so i could adjust it easily in the field while working.

thanks for the help.

amp

 

[atgreene]

I buy mine through Union Farm Equipment in Union Maine. They ship them right to me. Not sure how much they were, I just ordered a bunch of parts 2 days ago and had them throw a set in. I think they were around $8 or so, last time I checked. I keep a spare set or two hanging in the garage, jic.

My Woods B106 heavy duty bushhog uses up a set every 3 years or so, almost always from rust. I mow commercially with it and even so they last quite a while. I try to at least spray the clutch down with fluid film when I park it, but it really needs to be put under cover. At least they are easy to replace.

Good luck.

 

[Soundguy]

For what it's worth.. I've made up friction material from masenite in a pinch.. in places where I needed to make a light duty brake.. I bonde dit with spray contact adhesive...

not sugesting the masenite.. just saying I've done it in a pinch..

soundguy

 

[3RRL]

Amp,
I'm surprised you could not find the information on line.
Did you try their website? I found exploded views of all their stuff (didn't try yours) for my stuff though, if you know the model number. Plus pricing is included. Sometimes a call after you see what you need to clarify it is really what you expect it to be.
Here's a link to their tiller, but I don't know if it's yours or not. It appears to be a gear driven tiller and I could not find a slip clutch. Is yours a Cheetah gear box?
Howse Tiller

 

[ampsucker]

thanks, 3rrl, yep, that's the website alright. the problem though was just what you described. the slip clutch isn't shown and the model numbers on MY gearbox didn't match any of the numbers on the illustrations shown although it is a "cheetah" gearbox.

i ended up phoning in and think i have the right part numbers now. they were pretty helpful on the phone, although a bit confused themselves. we'll see when the parts get here.

i hitched up the tiller unit to my bx 24 3pt just today. i was a bit worried about the weight, but it pulled it right up without any problems and the tractor feels very stable with it mounted. can't wait to get the clutch parts in so i can crank up the pto and see how it digs.

amp

 

[em14]

First of all, I would suggest that you take the slip clutch and any of the clutch material that can be used to determine the disk size … My John Deere dealer has a very large book with all known friction clutches used on farm equipment and they can size and ID a replacement clutch disk if need be. Personally, I have never had a clutch on a piece of farm equipment that needed to be glued to the metal disc … I have had occasions where heat from a slipping clutch stuck the material to a metal disk. Some of these things get “pricey” … also … I think CCM, one this sites sponsors, has a good page to ID the shafts and that is more than half the battle … I would give them a call if your dealer cannot help you: PTO Shaft