Need advices about TnT cylinder kit

[Stef]

I'm looking for a TnT for my B3030 (with a double auxiliary valve). I asked my Kubota dealer to see what he could offer me and I did a search on TBN but so far I didn't find the kind of answer I'm looking for.

First, I read that TnT cylinders must be the type with check valves. My dealer said it doesn't matter. I'm not an expert about TnT so if someone could explain to me what a good kit should be (with or without check valve, etc.) I'll have the right information to buy the right stuff.

Second, the valve. Of course, my dealer offered me nothing else than a Kubota. I did it in the past ( I bought a double auxiliary valve to operate my snowblower on my former BX23. I don't have that valve anymore I traded it for my double auxiliary valve on my B3030 (in the fender). So I have to buy another one.) The picture is the valve that I had for my BX23. It worked very nice and it cost... too much just to have a Kubota valve. I know that I can have a nice valve for less. What do you have to propose guys? The two valves I have are already used so I need two more.

I'll do the installation myself. It's quite straight forward. So don't worry about who'll install the stuff.

So, in resume I'm looking for a valve and a TnT kit. I'm looking forward to read your comments guys. It'll help me a lot. Don't hesitate to give some technical details, I'm a fast learner. I'm sure it'll help other TBNers too.

Thank you all

 

[ronjhall]

If you are planning on doing a lot of work, It would be worth while getting the check valve type TnT. My cylinders do not have check valves. If I do not watch the top link when doing jobs it will change position. But I do not do it for a living and can put up with the little change. Back when I bought my TnT stuff with check valves were not readily available.
Other than cost I prefer the built in valves that Kubota offers for the B3030. A TBN'er posted the Whole goods prices here. 2007 KTC prices. In the list of prices I see they now offer a 3rd valve that can be added to the 2 valves. Valves for the B3030 are on page 25 of the B listings.

 

[DK35vince]

First, I read that TnT cylinders must be the type with check valves. My dealer said it doesn't matter. I'm not an expert about TnT so if someone could explain to me what a good kit should be (with or without check valve, etc.) I'll have the right information to buy the right stuff.

When I first installed top and tilt I used cylinders without the check valves. They leaked off to much and constantly needed readjusted (PITA).
I replaced the cylinders with ( CCM) check valve cylinders. They never leak off (never).
I much prefer the check valve cylinders..

 

[m7040]

Agree the Check valve cylinders is the way to go. Very satisfied with mine from CCM. Mine is the Cat2 cylinder. Yesterday when moving a large concrete slab with the pallet forks it overloaded the cylinder to where I could not retract it. No permanent damage it works fine otherwise

 

[Stef]

That's what I thought, with check valves. I looked at Carter & Carter Machinery website and I read their FAQ about TnT. I could probably go with a top cylinder only. I rarely adjust the sidelink. But I'm pretty sure that a top link would be very useful for hooking implements and adjust the angle of the snowblower.

Ok, that's a good answer for the TnT. Now the valve. Ronjhall, I looked at the B-Series listing but the third valve is not for a B2630/B3030. The valves for B3030 are in the box. The section "Additional valve types, dealer installed (select a valve section/s and the appropriate stacking kit to complete)" doesn't apply for B2630/B3030. But thanks anyways for the link. I already have the 2006 listing. Now I have 2007 too.

My problem isn't solve but is a bit clearer than before. I need a single spool valve to control my top link cylinder. As I said earlier, the two valves in my fender are already used so I need one more. I'm looking for a good brand with a good price.

CCM Hydraulic top link cylinder Cat 1 (18-26.5" w/ check valve) 2" cylinder: 185$

valve ?

Thanks guys

 

[638]

Stef,

I'm interested in the valve installation that was on your BX23. Did the location of the valve bother you when using the backhoe? What valves and cylinders did you use, and where did you buy them?

ron

 

[MadReferee]

Since the B2630/B3030 only support 2 factory remotes, you are kinda out of luck for a factory solution. If you want to add another spool you will have to add an entirely new single spool valve with power beyond in series with the loader, which is the only connection point you have. I have described the plumbing procedure many many times in the past. It's not difficult but it is kinda clumsy.

 

[Stef]

Stef,

I'm interested in the valve installation that was on your BX23. Did the location of the valve bother you when using the backhoe? What valves and cylinders did you use, and where did you buy them?

ron

About the location... I'm sorry I don't remember very well I only had a BX23 for a year (one winter and I changed it early next spring). My guess would be that I had to remove the valve to install and operate the backhoe. The valve and the snowblower's cylinders (angle and rotation) were installed by my Kubota dealer. The valve was Kubota and the cylinders came with the Pronovost snowblower. The installation was ok... but that was the last time he touched my tractor. The only person to touch my tractor now is... me.

 

[Stef]

MadReferee, I'm not looking for a factory valve. But if you know a good brand I'd like to know it. As I remember the Kubota valve installed on my former BX23 was pricy. And I think that you said to me at that moment that I could have had a good valve for much less. I don't want to make the same mistake again.

I'll use that valve only for my hydraulic top link. So I have a choice to make: I could install a permanent spool valve mounted on the ROPS (it must not interfere with my backhoe BH75 nor my new added lights, ROPS up or down), I could install a temporary valve mounted the same way as the first option but I could use quick connect hoses to use the rear outlet used for my backhoe (obviously the backhoe and the hydraulic top link will never be used at the same time, it's impossible), and finally I could use a solenoid operated valve installed permanently with a nice switch to operate it (that way I'd have more options as to where I put the valve itself and the outlets, the switch can be installed nearly anywhere as long as I can operate the cylinder sitting on the tractor and seeing the hitch's position).

So here I am, a bit lost with too many options . It's fun though to think of a new mod for the tractor. I'm looking forward to get into the installation process.

I decided that the cylinder will be CCM with check valve.

 

[MadReferee]

Based on your tractor's gpm, I always recommend a Prince valve. The SV series valves are stackable so if you only want one spool today you can always add another next year. They are sized well for the B-series tractors. Surplus Center has them as do many hydraulic shops and they are not all that expensive. I am sure there are others that will work but with the Prince SV you have the advantage of upgrading in the future and a large company to stand behind their product.