Need advise on Gooseneck Utility Trailer

[George2615]

Appalachian Trailer Sales in Manheim, Pa sells a 12000# gooseneck for $3700. It has a 20' deck plus a 4' dovetail with self storing ramps. Break away kit, stake pockets and rub rail, safety chains. They advertise in truck trader / equipment trader mag. I'm about to pick up a used one (2002) model I found locally.
I also have a 20' H&H tilt bed trailer I bought in Sept. 06. It has the single drop leg jack which is all I needed. dual drop leg may be more stable if your going to park it with a load on. They sell goosenecks also. Last year I called Kauffman and there was a 2 month wait time to build one to my specs so I went with the H&H at the time.
These are 2 companies I know of that have what you need for under 5K.

 

[George2615]

Appalachian Trailer Sales in Manheim, Pa sells a 12000# gooseneck for $3700. It has a 20' deck plus a 4' dovetail with self storing ramps. Break away kit, stake pockets and rub rail, safety chains. They advertise in truck trader / equipment trader mag. I'm about to pick up a used one (2002) model I found locally.
I also have a 20' H&H tilt bed trailer I bought in Sept. 06. It has the single drop leg jack which is all I needed. dual drop leg may be more stable if your going to park it with a load on. They sell goosenecks also. Last year I called Kauffman and there was a 2 month wait time to build one to my specs so I went with the H&H at the time.
These are 2 companies I know of that have what you need for under 5K.

 

[jdavis3099]

If this is a trailer you are going to keep for a long time, don't limit yourself. Shoot for about 22 feet plus 5 foot dovetail that you can raise to 27 feet total length; go with 8,000# Torflex axles and 17" tires, consider neverlube hubs and a Rumber (rubber no maintenance) deck and disk brakes. The trailer should be good for about a 12,000# load and will allow you to upgrade to a larger tractor or bring more attachments. For instance a tractor, rotary cutter, front end loader, box blade and 4 wheeler can all fit at one time. The cost of this type of trailer in Oklahoma at Haul-a-Round would be about $8,000.

Another option to consider is an 18 foot dump trailer with ramps and D-Rings. This combination can be handy if you are doing loader, demolition, constuction or tree work and you can still transport hay.

 

[jdavis3099]

If this is a trailer you are going to keep for a long time, don't limit yourself. Shoot for about 22 feet plus 5 foot dovetail that you can raise to 27 feet total length; go with 8,000# Torflex axles and 17" tires, consider neverlube hubs and a Rumber (rubber no maintenance) deck and disk brakes. The trailer should be good for about a 12,000# load and will allow you to upgrade to a larger tractor or bring more attachments. For instance a tractor, rotary cutter, front end loader, box blade and 4 wheeler can all fit at one time. The cost of this type of trailer in Oklahoma at Haul-a-Round would be about $8,000.

Another option to consider is an 18 foot dump trailer with ramps and D-Rings. This combination can be handy if you are doing loader, demolition, constuction or tree work and you can still transport hay.

 

[neverenough]

My trailer 2 cents.

Your never going to buy the "perfect trailer". One time you use it, you will wish it was longer to fit more hay, the next time you'll wish it was shorter becouse there is extra room on the bed with your tractor loaded, and you barely made the last corner.

Don't kid yourself, you can't haul 40,000lbs with a 1 ton truck, on the other hand, you can't haul 20,000lbs "once in awhile" with a 14,000lb trailer.

The rule of thumb I use for buying a trailer, which works, FOR ME, is figure the minimum trailer length I need, then add 4 feet. If you are hauling a specific item, and that is all you will be hauling, then getting the needed length trailer works well too. I know a couple skid steer owners that wish they would have gotten a longer trailer to haul more attachments, yet some are happy with the standard "skid steer trailer". Don't over do it on GWR, you will needlessly beat up what you are hauling if you get too much trailer. Plan ahead and make sure all REALISTIC bases are covered for the future.

Some like torsion axles, some don't. I'm one that doesn't. I find for carrying varing weight loads, the spring axles are much better at giving the lighter loads a decent ride. Nobody's right or wrong on the subject, it's strictly what one prefer's.

2 jacks on a gooseneck, IMO, is the only way to go. With one jack, if your loaded up and need to get the truck unhooked, better start unloading. You may or may not ever have to do it, but it only takes one time that you need to.....

With steel prices the way they are, under 5k is borderline, planning to stay under 6k, for a long term investment, IMO, would be more realistic. Trailers hold their value much better than vehicles, you have much more to gain, and much less to lose by getting exactly what you want/need.

 

[neverenough]

My trailer 2 cents.

Your never going to buy the "perfect trailer". One time you use it, you will wish it was longer to fit more hay, the next time you'll wish it was shorter becouse there is extra room on the bed with your tractor loaded, and you barely made the last corner.

Don't kid yourself, you can't haul 40,000lbs with a 1 ton truck, on the other hand, you can't haul 20,000lbs "once in awhile" with a 14,000lb trailer.

The rule of thumb I use for buying a trailer, which works, FOR ME, is figure the minimum trailer length I need, then add 4 feet. If you are hauling a specific item, and that is all you will be hauling, then getting the needed length trailer works well too. I know a couple skid steer owners that wish they would have gotten a longer trailer to haul more attachments, yet some are happy with the standard "skid steer trailer". Don't over do it on GWR, you will needlessly beat up what you are hauling if you get too much trailer. Plan ahead and make sure all REALISTIC bases are covered for the future.

Some like torsion axles, some don't. I'm one that doesn't. I find for carrying varing weight loads, the spring axles are much better at giving the lighter loads a decent ride. Nobody's right or wrong on the subject, it's strictly what one prefer's.

2 jacks on a gooseneck, IMO, is the only way to go. With one jack, if your loaded up and need to get the truck unhooked, better start unloading. You may or may not ever have to do it, but it only takes one time that you need to.....

With steel prices the way they are, under 5k is borderline, planning to stay under 6k, for a long term investment, IMO, would be more realistic. Trailers hold their value much better than vehicles, you have much more to gain, and much less to lose by getting exactly what you want/need.

 

[Piedmont3]

I don't have any advise on goose neck trailers... But If you are anywhere close to central Oklahoma, I might be interested in giving you a decent price for your 18' bumper pull trailer to help with the cost of the upgrade, PM me if you are interested.

 

[Piedmont3]

I don't have any advise on goose neck trailers... But If you are anywhere close to central Oklahoma, I might be interested in giving you a decent price for your 18' bumper pull trailer to help with the cost of the upgrade, PM me if you are interested.