Disc Harrow Need advise on used disk and box blade

[kthompson]

It is disappointing to have a disk narrower than your tractor will handle, makes you feel like you are wasting hp and time. But it is really disappointing to have a disk too light to cut your dirt or too wide to pull when it is cutting. I much rather have a narrower disk that is heavy so it will cut and if you are not needing to cut it deep then you can shift up and cut faster. Oh course you can only disk so fast. To get idea how deep you can cut with a disk measure from the amount of the blade exposed to the edge of the blade, that is it. An 18" inch blade may cut say 6" deep and that is about it. You do not want the axle and it's bearings clear of the dirt.

 

[Mitkof]

Hi Jeff,
Thanks for all the good info. I will definitely try your idea running front heavy and rear light. I have fairly sandy soil so I will have to watch depth and resistance as my WM40 could bury it.
In a previous life, I ran full and half range drills for many years with smooth disc. I have a notched disc question. What is the best tool to sharpen inside the notch itself?
Some good info to squirrel away for parts. Charles, an old Leinbach employee, working for EA says the 3 bolt disc harrow bearings on Leinbach 240 available from General Bearing Corp, 405-372-6605.
Ref: | General Bearing Corporation

 

[Mitkof]

Hi K,
I agree on all points. 6 inch cut is all I need. Rototillers are too expensive for my wallet. That 500. Leinbach Disc Harrow will do the trick for large garden plot and my wifes desire for sweet corn next year. I’ll also use it around pasture edges along ditch and reseed with third annual and two thirds perennial rye. Wet spots do better with white clover… which I also use for winter cover crop on garden plot.
God Bless…

 

[jeff9366]

I have a notched disc question. What is the best tool to sharpen inside the notch itself?

I have never honed Disc Harrow pans myself, but I suppose a readily available cone-shape abrasive fitting in a battery drill would work fine. The scallops are the weakest part of the pan. If you remove much metal you increase the risk of deforming or snapping off one of the scallops when encountering a boulder ~~~~risk increases if the Disc Harrow owner adds weight to the frame.

My unscientific rule of thumb is that notched/scalloped pans cut like smooth pans one size larger. i.e.: 18" scalloped pans cut like (almost nonexistent) 20" smooth pans, 20" scalloped pans cut like 22" smooth pans. This is why manufacturers usually offer only notched pans until 22" or 24" size, when the pans are so heavy that smooth configuration penetrates adequately.

"Nothing whatsoever bad about a Leinbach Disc Harrow."
Having gang adjustment holes in the lever, rather than holes in the disc frame like my old Howse (Photo #1) and Tarter/TSC CountyLine (Photo #2), is a stronger design and makes gang adjustment faster. My current Monroe Tufline 20" disc shares the Leinbach design, holes in the lever.

Check the axle nuts for tightness regularly. On my Howse 16/18" the axle nuts worked loose for quite a while. A big, LONG wrench for tightening the axle nuts is worth buying from eBay, with a little patience you can buy BLW for $15 delivered. Loose axle nuts will allow a pan to round out in the hub (bad) or abrade the axle until the pan is loose (worse).

I will definitely try your idea running front heavy and rear light. I will have to watch depth and resistance as my WM40 could bury it.

Light Disc Harrow + owner added weight + heavy tractor = busted frame.


What is UFF DA?

 

[Mitkof]

Hi Jeff,
Thanks for the additional information. I have lock nuts on all gang axels, they are Ny-nuts and protect the threads as well as locking those OEM axel nuts. My 240 needs major cleaning and rust removal, as it sat unused in a shed for years. Discs are still sharp and rust is mostly superficial except for all those 15/16 bolts and nuts… those are nasty. I’ll pull them and clean them up. Some will need replaced.
Have a good weekend…

 

[Mitkof]

Hi Jeff,
I had to think about UFF DA question… Uff Da is Norwegian origin. Commonly used in Upper Midwest states especially Minnisota, as well as Petersburg, AK [known as little Norway] and Puget Island, WA. It can express surprise or astonishment, total exhaustion, final relief, and disappointment. Roughly means "drats!," "oops!," "ouch!," "Oh no!," or "Oh Crap!." It has become a mark of Scandinavian roots. Typical UFF DA situation:
Dropping your only egg on the floor [yep…]
Discovering your girl/boyfriend loves Lutefisk
Dropping wrench so it slides into the bilge, under the engine [been there]
Having a mouse crawl up your leg on a hay ride
When your friends mock your Ole and Lena jokes
Eating a delicious sandwich, and discovering you used cat food [neighbor did it]
Waking yourself up in church with your own snoring [only once]
Having to take your kids Trick or Treating in a blizzard
Pulling into harbor with trolling poles still out [true event]
Getting ticket for driving without a steering wheel [true event]
Setting parking brake in -20 degree weather
Hanging out your bedroom window at 2am yelling at an Angus in the flowers below… only to have it stand-up on hind legs and look back at you [true bear event… Uff Da]
If you have a Sons of Norway Hall… you are in Uff Da country [most normal people stay away].