Buying Advice need buying advice

djh · Oct 31, 2004

I know this probably get asked a lot, but everybody has different requirements, so here it goes again.
I am looking at a 180vs422vs425.
I will get a brush cutter, snow plow and both regular buckets.
I have 8 acres of trees planted in rows that I mow between a few times a year. Will move some dirt and plow some snow also, no really big jobs. Cold weather use is important though. I am not a bigger is better type of guy. I buy the best value that will do what I need.
I also own a International M, a couple ATVs, a JD gator, a riding mower and a pull finish mower, so I am not looking for the PT to do everything. One question I have is what brands of motors are in these sizes and looking for advice on which one to buy.
thanks
dan

bmac · Oct 31, 2004

Well, Dan, I see your questions have not been answered by one of the experienced PT owners so I'll chime in. I do not own a PT but have spent countless hours on this forum enjoying the exploits of this fine fraternity so I've come away with a little knowledge (operative word here is "little").

From my understanding, both the 425 and 422 have Robin engines. I don't know that I've read any posts from a 180 owner here so I don't know what brand of engine it has. The 425 used to have Kohler engines, but I think they recently made the change to Robin.

As far as advice on which model, I won't even pretend to know. However, the experts here generaly will ask about the terrain you will be operating on (hilly, flat, etc.). The more hills, the more HP they will advise you to get, I'm sure. Also, the 425 I think has more robust wheel motors which combined with the increased HP, would perform better on hills.

OK, I hope this helped. Now, I'm sure one of the real PT guys will soon give you the meaningful answers you are looking for.

Good luck.

FOURTEEN · Nov 1, 2004

"" one of the real PT guys ""

Some folks may consider me "one of the real PT guys", while others may consider me something else entirely!!

That said, first I would advise you to save us all a lot of time by reading the Power Trac Posts for about the last year!!
Click "Discussions", then "Power Trac, then "Show - active in the last year - Change".

I advise that you read, or at least scan, each page, because we have a habit of wandering around, and sometimes even off, the original question!! Golden nuggets of info can often be found among the gravel of discourse!!

Or, if that is too daunting a task, at least read all FOURTEEN posts!! I assure you that they are the most informative, funny, inspirational, well written, accurate, knowledgeable, innovative, and factual, while exceedingly modest /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Posts anywhere on TBN!!!!

Any questions not answered by the past Posts will be resolved for you promptly!!

Welcome to Power Trac on TBN! You are in the right place now!!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

stray · Nov 1, 2004

Spoken like a REAL PT guy!

MossRoad · Nov 1, 2004

Someone has had a little too much Halloween candy! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Phils · Nov 1, 2004

DJH,

As 14 said, peruse the back posts. I did, and learned much. This last weekend I was able to spend both days on my new 422 and had no disappointments. I must've pulled over 50 old manzanita stumps with the mini-hoe, and ground off another half-dozen live oak stumps with the stump grinder.

Before operating it the first time, I reversed the direction of the stump grinder.... after reading past posts about that. The posts were right. It works great and throws the debris AWAY from the tractor.

Before using the brush hog, I'll put spacers on the bolts that "stop" the blades when they strike something. Again, learned from the past posts.

Past posts can help much. But for your question, I didn't choose the 180 because it doesn't have the quick attach, nor as good of a selection of attachments as the rest of the fleet. The 425 would've been great too, but for the price of a 425 I was able to get a 422 with the attachments I needed.

Phil

kcook · Nov 1, 2004

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( DJH,

As 14 said, peruse the back posts. I did, and learned much. This last weekend I was able to spend both days on my new 422 and had no disappointments. I must've pulled over 50 old manzanita stumps with the mini-hoe, and ground off another half-dozen live oak stumps with the stump grinder.

Before operating it the first time, I reversed the direction of the stump grinder.... after reading past posts about that. The posts were right. It works great and throws the debris AWAY from the tractor.

Before using the brush hog, I'll put spacers on the bolts that "stop" the blades when they strike something. Again, learned from the past posts.

Past posts can help much. But for your question, I didn't choose the 180 because it doesn't have the quick attach, nor as good of a selection of attachments as the rest of the fleet. The 425 would've been great too, but for the price of a 425 I was able to get a 422 with the attachments I needed.

Phil

)</font>

Phil, you have made some great points

I will give some of us some more things to think about

KC

djh · Nov 1, 2004

I did read the last couple months of posts before I posted.
Didn't see too much on the 180. I did a seach for the past year on the 180 and found more. Enough to talk myself out of it. I have worked on industrial hydraulics for 10 years and not having a cooler is a negative. Will have to look over the past year 422 and 425 posts when I have more time.
The 422 is on the top of my list now, which is a start.

Phils · Nov 1, 2004

From your initial post's expected usage, prob'ly the 422 would be fine for your use. You won't get the ROPS, but that can be inconvenient when mowing around low-branched trees. The 425 has more power, but I have not yet seen where I'd need more than the 422... it's a pretty strong unit.

One of the biggest differences is in the warranty: using the 422 for commercial work voids the warranty. If your trees are a business and you will be using the tractor in a business, the 425 warranty would be better. The 422 is strictly "homeowner" only for warranty purposes.

djh · Nov 1, 2004

The trees are just planted around my house, no business.
They are only a few years old, so I will be dead anyway before they are big enough to sell. LOL

Now that I am leaning towards the 422, I have a question about the brush cutter. I will never be cutting brush, just weeds and grass. Will it cut off 6-8" tall weeds and grass or just knock them over?

stray · Nov 1, 2004

I don't think you will need the brush hog at all. I have taken down some rough stuff with the 48" finish mower. But at the same time the brush cutter will do a decent job finish mowing. In your case you just won’t need both. Save some money. Also don't let them talk you into the small bucket! Just go ahead and get the 10 cu one. If you get the mini hoe or the potato digger for sure you won't need the small one or the rock teeth. I believe that you would be better off spending your money on the potato digger than the small bucket. I have both buckets and I just don’t have any use for the small one.

djh · Nov 1, 2004

I was planning on getting the bar tires and not getting the finish mower, just the brush cutter. At times I will be cutting pretty tall and thick weeds.

MuncyBob · Nov 2, 2004

I have no doubt the brush cutter will handle those weeds....since my 48" finish mower did the job fairly well. I did experience the inner tire valve blow out on the left front tire as previously decribed in the posts due to accumulated clippings causing the valve to snap. Next tall weed cutting I'll take the time to reverse the wheels...should help(or maybe I'll just remove the valves and plug them, also previously described in the posts). I wish I had the brush hog(seems my wish list is growing!!)....have plenty of trails I could use it on and from what owners have said about it I think it will handle your job just fine.

MossRoad · Nov 2, 2004

Have you seen the videos of my brush cutter on the PT425 in action?

If not, click on the little animated PT icon in my signature. That will take you to my web site, where there are several brush hog videos(and a lot more of other stuff). They are in Windows Media Format, so most any PC running Windows Media player can play them. They take a few minutes to dowload over dial up.

The brush hog will cut anything that it can bend down and start nibbling on. This last weekend I cut everything up to 1.5" in diameter with ease and even got a few over 2" that were in soft soil and bent down easily. Gotta be careful, though. Stuff flies everywhere and can injure people and property.

FOURTEEN · Nov 2, 2004

"" Before operating it the first time, I reversed the direction of the stump grinder.... after reading past posts about that. The posts were right. It works great and throws the debris AWAY from the tractor. ""

/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif You really should have operated the Stump Grinder OEM just once before reversing it!! It is a truly memorable experience, to be caught in the center of a tornado of dirt, wood chips, rocks, and mud, and then have to spend the following hour removing that debris from the PT, your clothing, and YOU!!!! I won't mention the possible trip to the Emergency Room!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

See details at "PT-425 PROS & cons?? [Re: FOURTEEN] #443306 - 06/13/04 08:01 PM
con: Stump Grinder Rotation"

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Phils · Nov 2, 2004

Yeah, 14, using it OEM first would've made my appreciation of the change greater.... however, I have learned over the years to accept (or at least consider) good advice.

How I use the stump grinder: I get the spinning blade positioned about an inch or so below the level of the stump, then drive forward turning the steering wheel slightly back and forth to grind a path through the stump. I then back up and do it again, with the grinding action mostly happening during the forward motion of the machine. When it's level again, I lower the blade another inch and do it all over again. Worked great. Any tips from you long-time users?

Phil

FOURTEEN · Nov 2, 2004

"" drive forward ""

I have been positioning the blade on the far side of the stump, then moving it side to side while applying gentle backward pressure. The cut is about 3 or 4 inches deep. The teeth are coming downward in a chisel like action that splits the wood, and takes it off in long strips rather than sawdust.

I don't know that one method is better or faster than the other. It may be just a Columbus thing!!
The most important factor is that the blade is turning in the correct (reversed OEM) direction!!

It saves a lot of Stump Grinder use if the stump is cut as close to the ground as possible with the chainsaw before grinding!

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Phils · Nov 3, 2004

I'll try your way next time, 14. I'll conduct a thoroughly scientetic 'speriment: two stumps, two methods, measure time spent and report back. I'm all for a faster method. But it sure beats my old method --- wait 20 years for it to rot away.

Phil