Need Dump Trailer info.

   / Need Dump Trailer info. #11  
One item I wanted to do was to try for 16" x 8 lug wheels which would match my trucks. I like the tires that take 85 PSI both for durability and load ability whether I ever could load to that degree or not. I notice some places give you the option.
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #12  
I just today decided what to do in a similar situation. I'll tell you the options that I found, and what I decided.

First, what most others have suggested here is a road-ready dump trailer that is designed to be pulled by a pick-up. There is nothing wrong with that option, but you will end up with more trailer than you need, if you truly need just to move material from one side of a property to the other. They're expensive, heavy, have to be liscensed, and are not ready to be pulled by your tractor. However, if you might need to move material over the road and they're not a budget buster for you, that is the way you should go.

I was in the situation of having a nice box trailer and a nice flat bed, with little need or desire to add a third road ready trailer to the stable. I decided that for the sake of my yard and my pocketbook, I wanted an off-road designed trailer that came ready to tow with a draw bar hitch.

The first thing I found, by searching through some old archives here in TBN was the trailers from Pronovost. They offer an excellent range of off road trailers that appear to made to the most exacting standards. However, all but their smallest model are very expensive and the freight to the Midwest from Quebec took them out of contention for me.

Just to back up for a moment to the issue of size. According to the manual for my new John Deere 4410, you should never tow more than 1-1/2 times the weight of the tractor without trailer brakes and never more than 2-1/2 times with brakes. That meant that I was looking for a trailer with a capacity around 4500 pounds unless I wanted to try and find an off road trailer with brakes and then try to get the brakes to work with my tractor. The small Pronovost has a capacity of 3000 pounds, which means that every trip I took, I was leaving 1500 pounds behind that I could have been moving. The 5000 pound capacity Pronovost is over double the cost of the 3000.

While driving by my favorite ag store, I noticed that they were parking some new shiny Spring merchandise, one item of which was an off road trailer. Narrowly avoiding a couple of accidents, I got my truck slowed down and got across enough lanes to get turned into the parking lot. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif It was from King Kutter and looked like a dandy little trailer. I gave it a good looking over and talked to a kid in the lot, who knew next to nothing, but was friendly and helpful and suggested that I go in the office and check with one of the senior guys. I decided to check it out on the web, instead. Click here to learn about the King Kutter XB Again, I bumped up against that 3000 pound limit. The trailer was similarly sized to the Pronovost 503, but it was right here in my back yard and for 1400 dollars including a hand pump instead of 1400 with a cylinder and nothing else (and sitting in Quebec). My hand twitched toward my wallet, but I resisted and decided to check out some more options.

By far my favorite find was the trailers from Midsota. These look just wonderful and at better prices than the Pronovost, though with better specs. Their small trailer is a bit more expensive at 2100 dollars, but it is bigger, has 7200 pound capacity, and comes ready to plug into my rear hydraulic controls. If they had a unit in stock, and freight had not been a jaw-dropping 900 dollars, I would have jumped on this one. If you're close enough to make a trip about an hour west of Minneapolis and/or you're looking for something a little bigger, these are the guys I would suggest you contact.

I ended up buying a trailer from Country Manufacturing. You can find one of the two trailers on the linked page (the tandem axle version) at Northern Hydraulics. This trailer is a little bigger than the King Kutter or the Pronovost and has another 1000 pounds of capacity -- just about right for my tractor. Despite the problems of trying to back it, I opted for the wagon style, with the wheels in the front. That way, I can use the tractor to load the trailer and not have a battle on my hands trying to get it hooked up when it is full. The price on Northern Hydraulics is less, but does not include shipping. Buying direct from the manufacturer, the price includes shipping to a business address or the terminal closest to your place. They also offer both the tandem axle and wagon style. The $1,390 price does not include hydraulics, but even with buying a cylinder and hoses, it will still be the second least expensive option, just a little more than the King Kutter, but with a bigger bed and power hydraulics instead of a hand pump.

If this thread is still active next week when the trailer arrives, I'll add some pictures. If it's been dormant a while, I'll start a new one once I have had a couple of days to live with the new trailer.
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #14  
RaT.

Here's a picture of a trailer like Kim has. (EZ Dump 10k low profile) Note the corner extensions to hold 2 X ? lumber for extra height. I made some extensions, not shown, using 1.5 angle iron to make a frame and plywood inside the frame. The frame could be any height if you are strong enough to lift it.

This particular trailer had the brake wires torn off using it off road.

John
 

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   / Need Dump Trailer info. #16  
Nice trailer! How big a tractor is that pulling it?
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #17  
Rat that's what I did a couple of years ago. My dump trailer uses the same 16" tires as my trucks on 8 lug wheels. The front bulkhead is 6' high by 8' wide. The sides are removable in stages. Each side consists of two 3' high panels stacked to get a total of 6' height. You can strip the top side panels and end up with 3' sides or strip both on each side for a flatbed with a rub rail for chaining or strapping loads. The rear doors are set up for use either as barn doors or by pulling out various pins you can have a drop down or pivot at the top. You could have the top door pivot at the top and the bottom pivot at the bottom.

The builder also added a valve so I can use the tractor hydraulics to dump as an alternate to the electric pump. The axles are heavier than the trailer rating and have the center hub grease fitting so the bearings can be lubed and water driven out after running through the creek.
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #18  
That's a Ford 1920. 33 or 34 HP gross, weighs in the low 3000 lb range without the loader. No problem handling that trailer loaded with what I estimated was maximum weight on level ground.

John
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #19  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The builder also added a valve so I can use the tractor hydraulics to dump as an alternate to the electric pump. )</font>

Great idea. I think it takes about 45 seconds or so to tilt mine all the way, then another 45 to lower it. Doesn't seem like much until you have a lot of loads. The tractor hydraulics must lift it in just a few seconds.

Another nice feature would be using the trailer hydraulics to replace the screw driven tongue jack. Next time my thrust bearing rusts out, I may do that.

John
 
   / Need Dump Trailer info. #20  
I just traded my 2003 Polaris ProX 700 (snowmobile) for a 6 x 12 U-Dump on Friday /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif I hate to see the sled go, but the current projects are more important at this point. I traded even with the Polaris dealer. He's also a U-Dump trailer dealer. It can hold about 9,000lbs. I'm going to modify it to run off the front hydraulics on the L39 somehow. It shouldn't be that hard to bypass the electric pump. We'll see.....
 

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