Buying Advice Need experienced user advice

[Martingouin]

Hi,
I am new to this forum and new owner of a 90 acres land. I have zero experience with tractor and I have several questions that I would like to have your opinion. I live in Quebec, Canada and I need to buy a new tractor. Here is my situation:

I have 90 acres of woods of maple tree (35%) and mix woods for the rest.
I need to do trails (for horses and tractor).
I will be cutting woods for the winter
A part of my land is really humid so I will need to do ditchs for my trails (so lots of mud in certain area).
I also have 2 horses.


So I've been looking some some time now and I am wondering what is the better option for me.

Do I need a lighter tractor for the mud or heavier?
Do I need agricultural tires of industrial (so I do not destroy the trails I'm making)?
What minimum HP do I need?
Should I buy new or used?
How many hours are considered good to buy for a tractor?

I am looking at Kubota and Tym now as the John Deere dealer sucks in my area

I have a special now for a used kubota L39 but I'm affraid that is not going to be good in wood and mud because it's build for construction.

So what should I be looking for?

Thank you very much for your advice

 

[Fawken]

Hi,
I am new to this forum and new owner of a 90 acres land. I have zero experience with tractor and I have several questions that I would like to have your opinion. I live in Quebec, Canada and I need to buy a new tractor. Here is my situation:

I have 90 acres of woods of maple tree (35%) and mix woods for the rest.
I need to do trails (for horses and tractor).
I will be cutting woods for the winter
A part of my land is really humid so I will need to do ditchs for my trails (so lots of mud in certain area).
I also have 2 horses.


So I've been looking some some time now and I am wondering what is the better option for me.

Do I need a lighter tractor for the mud or heavier?
Do I need agricultural tires of industrial (so I do not destroy the trails I'm making)?
What minimum HP do I need?
Should I buy new or used?

I am looking at Kubota and Tym now as the John Deere dealer sucks in my area

I have a special now for a used kubota L39 but I'm affraid that is not going to be good in wood and mud because it's build for construction.

So what should I be looking for?

Thank you very much for your advice

Welcome here. Now this is just my opinion so ultimately you have to decide. 90 acres is a lot and it sounds like you have a pot pour i of terrain and tasks to take care of. Have you considered getting two used tractors that will each have it's own attributes for your various uses?

 

[Martingouin]

No I did not consider this but I'm open to suggestions

 

[PILOON]

Welcome to TBN.
I also am in Quebec, the lower Laurentians.

Heavy will want to sink.
4 X 4 would be a must and I suggest the lighter (smaller) the less chances of sinking.
My opinion is larger wider tires would 'float' better than narrow farm threads that would want to dig in.
Most if not all will give you the power or torque you want but will just handle smaller equipment hence take a bit longer to do the task.
When it comes to snow, chains would be your friend.

I had a big Deere and traded for a smaller 4 x 4 20 hp and never regretted it due to weight and maneuverability.
The small 20 hp with FEL is never stuck and zips in and out of all kinds of tight spaces.
OK, slow on road and maybe a pass or 2 more when I grade or plow or blow snow but being able to maneuver with agility is well worth it.

Also have a close look at Kioti, good reputation service etc and reliable.

With my 20HP I actually drive up and on snow banks in the winter without sinking. Good chains are your friend come winters.
Hydrostatic tranny is also a big asset.
I also have used my friends Kubota B21 a lot and found it very agile and up to every task I asked it to do.

In recap I'd trade agility for power (and weight) for the tasks you describe.
Besides for trails etc how wide do you really want?
Be sure you do buy with a FEL as adding later will cost way more.

 

[jeff9366]

I have zero experience with tractors.

You will likely find tractoring intimidating at first. All of us do. All tractors seem big in the beginning but they shrink pretty rapidly. Tractors are unstable laterally. Mounting implements on the Three Point Hitch can be difficult in the beginning, connecting PTO powered implements to the tractor PTO output worse, but you gradually learn the ins and outs. A hydraustactic transmission is much safer on sloped ground than gear. Most new 20 to 60 horsepower tractors are sold with HST transmissions.

Do you have someone nearby that can help you when you are frustrated? If not, be sure to select a tractor dealer who will be helpful.

I have 90 acres of woods of maple tree (35%) and mix woods for the rest.

How much of the 90 acres will you work? Do you intend to raise hay for the horses? Have a garden? Food plots to attract game? Amplify how you will use your acreage.

What minimum HP do I need? I am going to advise 45 to 50 horsepower with 4-WD as a working number. Subject to revision depending on how you will use your acreage in total.

Do I need a lighter tractor for the mud or heavier? Weight is important to accomplish work and to make the tractor stable. Do not tractor when the ground is mud. Wait for the ground to dry.

I need to do trails (for horses and tractor). I need to do ditches for my trails.
Backhoes are recommend for removing tree stumps and trenching. Unfortunately, a Backhoe will cover the Three Point Hitch. If you have a lot of stumps to remove or a lot of trenching to do a tractor backhoe can take forever to complete the tasks. If you have a beaucoup, considering hiring in a tracked excavator for one time construction work, then maintain with your tractor.

I will be cutting wood for the winter. I also have 2 horses. Consider a Front End Loader (FEL) an indispensable powered wheelbarrow, which will save your back.

Do I need agricultural tires of industrial (so I do not destroy the trails I'm making)? Agricultural tires grip better, though imperfectly, in mud. Agricultural tires shed mud and horse manure as they turn.

Industrial tires are wider, hence make tractor just a little more stable, have more float. Industrial tires are smoother on roads and wear less on roads. Industrial tires support FEL loads and are recommended for tractors equipped with FELs. Industrial tires are less flat prone in the sidewalls, although neither Industrial nor Ag tires get flats often.

Should I buy new or used? What is your budget? A new tractor without implements and attachments is nothing.

How many hours are considered good to buy for a used tractor?

Well maintained diesel tractors can go 12,000 engine hours and still be fairly reliable. Tractors that have 12,000 hours on them and have been well maintained consistently are practically nonexistent. How are your mechanical/hydraulic repair skills? How near will service be for your used tractor?

NEW/EXPENSIVE/RELIABLE.

USED/LESS MONEY/REPAIRS/UNPLANNED DOWN TIME. PARTS ARE REALLY EXPENSIVE.

 

[AxleHub]

Hi,
I am new to this forum and new owner of a 90 acres land. I have zero experience with tractor and I have several questions that I would like to have your opinion. I live in Quebec, Canada and I need to buy a new tractor. Here is my situation:

I have 90 acres of woods of maple tree (35%) and mix woods for the rest.
I need to do trails (for horses and tractor).
I will be cutting woods.

So what should I be looking for?

Thank you very much for your advice

A little more information would be helpful. Having zero experience with a tractor is one thing . . . but do you have good experience with tools and other equipment ? In other words do you have mechanical aptitude?

And all the things you are wanting to do . . How many have to be done right away vs. over a couple years?

My point is . . . cutting a trail thru woods and mud bogs might be better done by hiring someone locally to do it for you so then you can focus on building trails and other things. Is your woods big old pine and cedars or small growth young trees? It makes a big difference in equipment and skill and manpower.

I'd have a tendency to own a smaller tractor and hire some of the bigger tractor work out (or if you have friends with bigger tractors). My reasoning would be you need to learn and develop capabilities and a smaller tractor gives you better manuevering and is more "friendly" for errors and tasks to learn. A big tractor takes big space and you can run out of things to do with it if you have limited time or financial resources.

 

[AxleHub]

I am looking at Kubota and Tym now as the John Deere dealer sucks in my area

I forgot to ask . . do you have any Massey Ferguson or Yanmar dealers anywhere around you?

The reason I ask is both of those manufacturers recently discontinued some very nice tractor models. The Massey 1500 series had several models/frame sizes in the 1500 series and Yanmar had the EX series. Both had well known quality engines and there certainly could be new prodct still in the channel .
even though the brochures will show only the newer models. Just a thought.

 

[flusher]

Tractor: 50-60 hp (engine), 4WD, hydrostatic transmission, power steering, dual hydraulic rear remotes (three is better), single front hydraulic remote, cab (definitely considering your location), ag tires loaded with antifreeze (Rimguard, etc) front end loader (FEL) with 6-ft wide bucket, chain hooks on top of bucket, skid steer quick attach option for the FEL.

This should get you in the ballgame. All the tractor manufacturers have products with these specs. Stick to dealers in your locale (within 100 mile radius). Check out dealer's service and parts departments. Some small dealers just sell tractors and have limited service and few parts in stock.

AND, finally, thoroughly test drive the tractor you're considering. Learn about all the features and ask questions.

Good luck and be careful out there.

 

[nybirdman]

New owner/user;HST for sure,4WD with R1's(Ag),FEL at around 40HP and Quebec=cab.Industrial tires in the mud we just get you stuck.Go with any of the main stream manufacturers.

 

[AxleHub]

A thought came to mind . . In Wisconsin we can certainly get -25 f or -30 f temps . . so rimguard of winshield/rv washer will work for loading tires. But in Canada I assume temps can get still colder pretty easily. Not thay your going to be out in -45 f. But the storage sheds aren't any warmer. So what do they use for loading tires in Canada?

 

[flusher]

A thought came to mind . . In Wisconsin we can certainly get -25 f or -30 f temps . . so rimguard of winshield/rv washer will work for loading tires. But in Canada I assume temps can get still colder pretty easily. Not thay your going to be out in -45 f. But the storage sheds aren't any warmer. So what do they use for loading tires in Canada?

This stuff is supposed to be good to -40C (-40F)

FUSION Tire Ballast

It's some type of modified beet juice (like Rimguard). I suppose it's like water in that it expands when it freezes. That's not a problem usually since liquid ballasted tractor tires are generally only 2/3 to 3/4 filled with liquid. So there's room for the frozen ballast liquid. As long as the tractor is in storage for the winter and not moved, freezing should not be an issue. You might want to bleed off the air pressure before storing the tractor. If you try to drive the tractor with frozen ballast in the tires, you might be in for a rough ride that might not do your rear tires any good.

Good luck.

 

[DieselnHooters]

Like Piloon mentioned take a look at Kioti , you have their largest dealer over in the Sherbrooke area (Distribution Payeur) not that far from where you are. Kubota may be the safest bet but you will likely get more for your $ with Kioti, I have no personal experience with them but owners on here rave about them.

And stay away from TYM and such unless you are mechanically inclined and in no hurry for spare parts.

 

[Martingouin]

First of all, thank you everyone for all your advice.

To be more specific and answer few questions, I do not have mechanical aptitude yet. I'm a self learner and I learn pretty fast.

The specific usage for the tractor will be to transport manure, build trails/road and maintain them, pick up woods in the forest, pickup sap from maple tree in spring and probably raise hay for the horses.

With this I know I need a FEL. Now I am hesitant on the Backhoe as I can rent one as suggested. I must admit I'm a leaning toward the kubota as the dealer seems very good in my area. With all your comments, I will be probably looking for a MX5200 HST. But my question is, is it to big for the woods compare to a L3901 HST?

A part of my land is always wet so this is why I've talk about the mud so I cannot wait for it to dry. I need to do some irrigation.

I will also look for Kioti but I'm never sure with those kind of brand.

Thanks again for your help

 

[TJP89]

Hi,
I am new to this forum and new owner of a 90 acres land. I have zero experience with tractor and I have several questions that I would like to have your opinion. I live in Quebec, Canada and I need to buy a new tractor. Here is my situation:

I have 90 acres of woods of maple tree (35%) and mix woods for the rest.
I need to do trails (for horses and tractor).
I will be cutting woods for the winter
A part of my land is really humid so I will need to do ditchs for my trails (so lots of mud in certain area).
I also have 2 horses.


So I've been looking some some time now and I am wondering what is the better option for me.

Do I need a lighter tractor for the mud or heavier?
Do I need agricultural tires of industrial (so I do not destroy the trails I'm making)?
What minimum HP do I need?
Should I buy new or used?
How many hours are considered good to buy for a tractor?

I am looking at Kubota and Tym now as the John Deere dealer sucks in my area

I have a special now for a used kubota L39 but I'm affraid that is not going to be good in wood and mud because it's build for construction.

So what should I be looking for?

Thank you very much for your advice

Don't know what you mean by a "special", but the L39 would work for you. Yes it's a construction vehicle, but the loader is great, it has 4WD, PTO, and comes with a 3PTH kit, I believe. They are sturdy, so if you have a good deal on one, I'd go with it. Don't discount it just because it's a construction vehicle.

 

[hunt4570]

First of all, thank you everyone for all your advice.

To be more specific and answer few questions, I do not have mechanical aptitude yet. I'm a self learner and I learn pretty fast.

The specific usage for the tractor will be to transport manure, build trails/road and maintain them, pick up woods in the forest, pickup sap from maple tree in spring and probably raise hay for the horses.

With this I know I need a FEL. Now I am hesitant on the Backhoe as I can rent one as suggested. I must admit I'm a leaning toward the kubota as the dealer seems very good in my area. With all your comments, I will be probably looking for a MX5200 HST. But my question is, is it to big for the woods compare to a L3901 HST?

A part of my land is always wet so this is why I've talk about the mud so I cannot wait for it to dry. I need to do some irrigation.

I will also look for Kioti but I'm never sure with those kind of brand.

Thanks again for your help

No one else has asked so I will... how much of your property is woods and how much is open? Makes a big difference in tractor size and type of implements you get.
I have 102 acres of witch 85% is forested.. well 75% now as I just opened some more up.If you will be in the woods a lot, trails and such maybe a little smaller might work.. 35hp min probably.
I have a L3540 HST Kubota, 37 hp. It allows me to get around pretty well in my woods, and still does a good job in the open areas, FEL is plenty strong for working the ground, firewood etc.
Dont only look at HP though.. it can be deceiving. Look also at the footprint size of the tractor.. My "Grand L" series tractor has a larger footprint than the same approximate HP size in the "L" series so its quite a bit more stable. Has other conveniences also, like telescoping lift arms making it easier to hook up to implements.

You can go to a place like Tractordata.com and compare lots of different tractors.. but dont be stuck on only HP..

Good luck!!

 

[tractorshopper]

I think the MX5200 you're looking at is the right size for your property and chores you've mentioned already. I had the L3800 (the predecessor of the L3901) and it would do everything you mentioned, but if you will be dealing with round bales, I think the MX5200 to be a better size for loader strength. For trail creation and maintenance, I'd recommend that you buy a tooth bar for your loader and buy a box blade (6 or 7') for the tractor. This will add ballast when using the FEL and will be a great help for trail creation and maintenance. With a tooth bar on your loader, you'll be amazed at how much you can dig/shape/contour with it too. You will need ballast to get the most lift out of your loader, so along with the box blade, I'd also make sure your rear wheels are filled with antifreeze or whatever is used in your climate. It will make a huge difference in stability and lift capacity.

With that size tractor, you can probably run a 7' bush hog (maybe even 8). This will be a stout toy and exactly what I would buy if I were in your shoes.

I'm partial to Kubota, but that said, I would also look at the same size tractor in Kioti, JD (but they suck in my area with pricing), NH, and Yanmar. I'd be comfortable buying any of them. See what fits you best and what ergonomics you prefer amongst them.

Happy tractoring!

 

[Martingouin]

My land is 96% wood My goal is to open it more.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

I've had my MX4800 (same tractor sans turbo) for a few months and love it. 100hrs so far with zero issues. But being new to tractor I can't stress enough how important a good dealor can be. (BTW fill the rears and add 3pth ballast to get the most out of your loader)
Unless you plan to do row crops, I couldn't justify the extra $ to get the 5200. The 4800 has the same loader and 3pt specs.

 

[jeff9366]

I think the MX5200 you're looking at is the right size for your property and chores you've mentioned already.

X 2

I recommend the optional Kubota L2296 Heavy Duty Round Back Bucket. It is much better than the standard bucket for trail and woods clearing work.

 

[Texasmark]

I think your best bet would be to go to the local coffee shop and chit chat with the guys in the area that have a spread the size of yours and have the things to do that you aspire to do. Will be time well spent. I am down here in Texas and things are just different and my aspirations and yours probably are different. They can shoot you a lot of yarns but they can also get you on the right track in selecting the right equipment for the job, and may even come and lend a neighborly helping hand, if not physically, mentally saving you time and money.

Now that I've said that here's my 2c.

1. On big jobs requiring skill and large equipment, have it done. A professional with the right equipment can come in and have your job done in short order and the $100 per hour or whatever the going rate will be well worth it. BTDT However if you have the time and money to experiment as you "learn by doing", then so be it. BTDT too and wised up and did the other mentioned. Money well spent.

2. Hard to have one tractor to do all the jobs that come up on a spread of that size in the environment you mentioned. As others have mentioned, see what others in your area are using for your aspiring tasks and mimic them with used equipment, at least at first till you know what suits you. A FEL and backhoe are valuable assets when you need them. But when you have tasks not needing them, they are just in the way. Also if you have difficult to attach implements, especially if you work alone (as I do) then you may want several used tractors sitting around with the implement permanently attached, like the FEL and backhoe. Guy across the road from me came out here and that's the first thing he bought, an old Ford combo. It was worn out and the engine needed rings but for no more than he needed done, a quart of oil here and there and a wobbling this or that was not a problem.

3. As you age, your desires and physical requirements will change which is a consideration in how much you plan on investing in a piece of equipment. I am 10 years retired but back 35 years ago when I bought this farm I was Joe redneck, six cylinder, stick shift, no ac or heater, crank up windows, manual door locks sort of stuff...... 2wd, no FEL and all that. In 2007 I bought my first new tractor and it has every available creature comfort offered in that class and I wouldn't have it any other way.

4. The family's contribution changes over time too and adjustments have to be made accordingly. Be sure and plug that into your plans.

Good luck and welcome aboard. This site is mostly newer equipment and seems to me to be more of the small operator....like me. Yesterday's Tractor site has a lot of the larger guys (like your 90 acres and more) and a lot of members have older equipment that constantly needs attention similar to what you may consider for your initial plans. Hence lots of help and ideas on solving problems. And there are others out there too. Got a question, just put it to a search engine and sit back!