Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks

   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#21  
The T is 2 3/4"X 1/2" on the face and 1 1/2"X 1/2" for the web. You have to make sure the face is up high enough to clear the fork lip after welding. Same for the bottom T and it's the same as the top.

The frame is 2"X 1/4" wall, that does not have to be that thick, 5/16" (Did you mean 3/16"?) is enough by far. I always keep 2" tubeing around and the 1/4" must of been what I had at the time. Also it does not need 4 center pieces, I added the 3pt later.

If you think you might add the 3pt later set the 2 center pieces at 12" from C/L to outside edge and that well give you 24" outside to outside of tube. With the pins takeing up 1/2" on each side and you use 1/2" stock for the pins you well end up 26" or cat 1.

My mounts are kicked out 10 degs. and 44" wide to match my tractor. The fork frame is 48"

Thanks Lee, this is awesome! Really gives me a good idea of what to do and the suggestions are also on point and helpful. And the pictures... well, everyone loves pictures!

Very much appreciated! :thumbsup:
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #22  
Yeah, but I've got the forks and they only cost me $50. Being adjustable does have some advantages so I guess I'll find out if the advantage will out weigh the extra weight. :scratchchin:

That's great if you've got the forks already. In that case, I'd use them and still go fixed width. Applications are different for everyone. Some people really make use of the adjustability, some use it only because it's there and some never use it.

15 yrs ago, I made a fork carriage for the Skidsteer I had and made it the full 60" wide of the machine. I was installing Cover-all buildings at the time and was using it to move all the different components so the extra 18" of width from a standard 42" wide frame was significant when balancing 16' 8x8 posts or 20' long truss sections and narrow them up 12" apart for moving crates of hardware. When I quit installing those, I traded the LS160 in on a TC23 NH and cut the extra width off the frame, set the forks 32-36" and never adjusted the forks again for 3 yrs. Fast forward a bunch of years to this tractor and I didn't even consider adjustable forks.

I just wanted to throw it out there as an option many don't consider.
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#23  
That's great if you've got the forks already. In that case, I'd use them and still go fixed width. Applications are different for everyone. Some people really make use of the adjustability, some use it only because it's there and some never use it.

15 yrs ago, I made a fork carriage for the Skidsteer I had and made it the full 60" wide of the machine. I was installing Cover-all buildings at the time and was using it to move all the different components so the extra 18" of width from a standard 42" wide frame was significant when balancing 16' 8x8 posts or 20' long truss sections and narrow them up 12" apart for moving crates of hardware. When I quit installing those, I traded the LS160 in on a TC23 NH and cut the extra width off the frame, set the forks 32-36" and never adjusted the forks again for 3 yrs. Fast forward a bunch of years to this tractor and I didn't even consider adjustable forks.

I just wanted to throw it out there as an option many don't consider.

Interesting. To be honest, I never really seriously considered stationary forks since I've run into numerous situations where I really had wished that my non-adjustable wooden "wannabe" forks had in fact been adjustable. Of course, they were big and had three forks which precluded me using them with pallets (which is important) but there were numerous other instances as well. I had considered making a set of steel forks from scratch in order to lighten them up, but I already have this set of old commercial forks - even though they are quite heavy. Therefore, I hope to get back a little capacity through the use of a lighter weight carriage - while still being strong enough for my tractor.

Anyway, I do thank you for your thoughts Farm Boy, but at this point I'm committed to trying the adjustable route and then, as I said, I guess I'll find out!
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Here's one of the forks that I'm dealing with. The pin assembly has been removed, cleaned and also painted with the springs themselves replaced. The little cam lever that lifts the pin was gone and only a bit of wire was used to pull up the pin in order to move the forks along its rail. I'm going to have to find out where they can be bought (can't be that expensive) or at the worst, take piece of sheet stock and cut, bend and drill out a set.

Obviously the yellow paint job is mine. I had some old tractor yellow laying around so I cleaned and de-greased and then painted those areas that will not come in contact with a payload or floor/ground and also a 3" area where it should contact the carriage. Why paint? Well, why not? Actually, I must just be excited about putting a real set of steel forks to use.
:dance1:
 

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   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#25  
OK, got part one done (quick attach conversion) done and just finished up part two which is the fork carriage.
froks from front left.jpg

I want to thank all of you who made suggestions (either here or in the other "Gotta convert loader to Quick Attach" thread) and especially a big thanks to Xfaxman for suggesting the "rollback" - I went with two inches back in 16 inches of height.
fork carriage lower left.jpg

and to zmansmac for the heavier crossbar suggestion. I went with only 2" but that's up from the 1" that I had planned.
QTach loader side.jpg

and I also borrowed the wing concept to help catch the loader arms from sd455dan. Hard to see in the picture, but they angle out about a half an inch.
welded up nose pocket 1.jpg

Finally, I looked at a number of suggestions like from DieselCrawler to come up with just a simple basic frame which is way stronger than anything I'm going to be able to carry. I used 1.5 x 1.5 x 3/16 inch tubing with the bars being 3" x .5" - everything welded up solid.
forks from left.jpg

Thanks again all for your support! :thumbsup:

Now, for some paint.....
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks #26  
I'm coming late to this discussion, but I also plan to build a frame for some forks I already have. My plan is to use 4"x 2" channel with the top piece turned up and the bottom piece turned down. The ends will be closed with the same channel and the mounting done with pairs of 4" angle from top to bottom. I will cut some notches in the top channel and use mounting pins in the angle iron pairs. This will not be "**** for stout" but will be simple to build and should be strong enough for anything I will be lifting. I just got the channel last week and used some for another project and will get the angle soon (too many other projects in the way).
 
   / Need help designing a carriage for a set of forks
  • Thread Starter
#27  
I'm coming late to this discussion, but I also plan to build a frame for some forks I already have. My plan is to use 4"x 2" channel with the top piece turned up and the bottom piece turned down. The ends will be closed with the same channel and the mounting done with pairs of 4" angle from top to bottom. I will cut some notches in the top channel and use mounting pins in the angle iron pairs. This will not be "**** for stout" but will be simple to build and should be strong enough for anything I will be lifting. I just got the channel last week and used some for another project and will get the angle soon (too many other projects in the way).

Sounds like it should work just fine and actually be very strong. Love to see what you do with it. Why don't you take a few pictures as you begin and start a new thread - I'd certainly be interested. :thumbsup:
 

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