Need help! Dk40se sensor stuck in Low

[Coyote machine]

Coyote Machine, thanks for all that info, I haven't read the thred you posted yet but I will take a look, I did know that the cruse and range switch were connected somehow. As far as being in neutral, it definitely is or was. I had shifted up to medium to run to the brush pile, when I got back to where I was working I forgot to drop back to low and stalled because I was up in medium. But I was working up hill so I put it in neutral and let the tractor roll back 2 or 3 feet before trying to restarting it. When I get out there I will try the sensor reset first then jumping the starter, sofar no rain bur I know it will as soon as I get out there!

No problem, you're welcome. I would have tried to post the actual schematics, but taking pics of them then uploading them, then posting them on this thread is too much like work.
Before you go trying all the other ideas in this thread try resetting your range selector the way its supposed to be done, as I detailed above.
It seems you already had the issue previously; it just decided to strand you most recently.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Alright, the tractor is back in the garage! First I tried disconnecting the battery, no change. Next I double checked that none of the wire harness plugs under the tractor had pulled loose, everything looked good and felt tight, no change. Checked the fuse for the cruse module, looked good but didn't put a meater on it. Next I double checked that I hadn't bumped the pto on, nope. Really hopefully I had missed something stupid, nope. Next I tried to reset the range slector, couldn't get anywhere with that. Now it is starting to lightly mist, so I popped the hood and stuffed a wire on the starter. That worked to start the tractor but didn't solve the underlying problem, still have the blinking L and can't start with the key. At least now it's sitting in the garage, I plan on calling the dealer tomorrow.

 

[Coyote machine]

Well the good news is it's back inside. I suspect the potentiometer at the range selector has gone south. Now you can get your dealer to work on the problem while it's present; a lot easier to fix than when it's not showing up when in the shop.
Keep us posted, we all want to know exactly what it turns out to be.:thumbsup:

 

[k0ua]

The easiest way to check the range sensor potentiometer is to pull it out and bench test it with an ohmmeter. I would prefer you use an actual meter not your "meater".

Here is what you should read. with the leads across the hi side and the ground side you should read 2000 ohms. if you place your meter across either hi or low sides and measure the wiper by moving the lever arm attached to the shaft of the "sensor" (potentiometer) you will see a varying resistance from near 0 ohms rising to 2000 ohms as the lever is moved. By placing the leads on the wiper and the other end terminal (hi or lo) you will see the same varying reading only in the opposite direction as it relates to the movement of the lever. If anything checks open, then you can be pretty assured the potentiometer is defective. The structure and function of this "sensor" is exactly the same as any other potentiometer or more commonly called a volume control when it is on a radio.

In this application on one end of the potentiometer 5 volts is applied and on the other end is ground. The wiper has a varying voltage sent back to the cruise unit depending on where in the arc of movement the lever attached to the wiper of the pot is located. The below picture is an example of little fellow that allowed his "meater" to get too near an electrical device.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Oh the joys of using my phone for everything... combine that with a lack of proof reading and autocorrect will get you every time! I have seen autocorrect change every character in a word except the first from simply switching the placement of two letters. Except this time I just fails to catch my own mistake. :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

Well the good news is you have the tractor in the dry where you can work on it. If you need further help let us know. If you decide to just let the dealer sort it out, then please let us know what he finds. It helps us help others in the future. All fun poking was done in the spirit of friendship.

 

[Apsterbobed]

Oh I found it funny, make me wonder what crazy things I had in work email from my phone :laughing: I have a call in with the dealer his techs haven't see the blinking L and couldn't find it in their (crap now you got me wondering if thats the correct their) manuals, so he called his kioti rep and is waiting on him to get back to him. Depending on what he hears I plan to give it to the dealer because it should be covered seeing as it has been an ongoing problem. I will let you know once it's resolved.

 

[Apsterbobed]

I talked to the dealer yesterday, not the usual person in service (probably because it was Saturday) they told me that they have ordered a new cruse module. He said if they wiggled the wires going into it they could get it working. Part should be in end of the week, hopefully this will fix this problem permanently!

 

[kco]

I realize this is an old thread but it appears a good one to add note my 2011 Kioti DK35SE HST's "Range Shift Selector". It looks like the name has changed to the "Stroke Sensor" assembly with a price of $135.14 (from the Michigan Iron site). This morning my tractor had neutral position display problems similar to this thread's original post.

It seemed to start after I had difficulty shifting from Neutral to Medium range despite following the procedure of trying to slowly ease it into gear while slightly pressing the forward pedal. However, I was able to shift to Low range and after that could shift through all ranges. I did not notice the problem until I tried to restart it after unloading a bucket load of firewood. It would not start in any Neutral position but would start in the Medium and High range positions. I think, but am not sure it did not start in the Low range position.

The dash range indicator showed:
"N" with the lever was in "H"
"M" with the lever was in "N" position between "M" and "H" positions
"N" with the lever in the "M" position
"L" with the lever in the "N" position between "L" and "M" positions
"L" with the lever in the "L" position

I finished a few more bucket loads of wood and came in and found this thread. It seemed like the previous difficulty shifting into "M" might be related to binding in the "Stroke Sensor/Range Shift Selector" part. I checked it from underneath since KOUA said that is how the dealer changed his switch (rather than removing the seat). I wiggled the lever and checked the nut on the shaft that appears to hold the shaft on the sensor and all seemed tight. I decided it would be easier to remove the seat (I had done so before when removing the rear hydraulic detentes) and decided to move the tractor to the shop. When I went to start it all had returned to normal and has remained that way. I wonder if something in the switch or the lever rotated on the sensor's shaft when it refused to shift into "M" this morning (although I did not use undue force attempting that).

My question is; is the lever on the switch's shaft fixed in one position or is it possible for the lever to rotate if the nut is not tight enough? If the lever is fixed in one position I suspect the problem is internal and it is just a matter of time before I need a new switch. For now I'll carry a wire to jump the starter solenoid in case it gives more serious trouble again.

 

[k0ua]

I realize this is an old thread but it appears a good one to add note my 2011 Kioti DK35SE HST's "Range Shift Selector". It looks like the name has changed to the "Stroke Sensor" assembly with a price of $135.14 (from the Michigan Iron site). This morning my tractor had neutral position display problems similar to this thread's original post.

It seemed to start after I had difficulty shifting from Neutral to Medium range despite following the procedure of trying to slowly ease it into gear while slightly pressing the forward pedal. However, I was able to shift to Low range and after that could shift through all ranges. I did not notice the problem until I tried to restart it after unloading a bucket load of firewood. It would not start in any Neutral position but would start in the Medium and High range positions. I think, but am not sure it did not start in the Low range position.

The dash range indicator showed:
"N" with the lever was in "H"
"M" with the lever was in "N" position between "M" and "H" positions
"N" with the lever in the "M" position
"L" with the lever in the "N" position between "L" and "M" positions
"L" with the lever in the "L" position

I finished a few more bucket loads of wood and came in and found this thread. It seemed like the previous difficulty shifting into "M" might be related to binding in the "Stroke Sensor/Range Shift Selector" part. I checked it from underneath since KOUA said that is how the dealer changed his switch (rather than removing the seat). I wiggled the lever and checked the nut on the shaft that appears to hold the shaft on the sensor and all seemed tight. I decided it would be easier to remove the seat (I had done so before when removing the rear hydraulic detentes) and decided to move the tractor to the shop. When I went to start it all had returned to normal and has remained that way. I wonder if something in the switch or the lever rotated on the sensor's shaft when it refused to shift into "M" this morning (although I did not use undue force attempting that).

My question is; is the lever on the switch's shaft fixed in one position or is it possible for the lever to rotate if the nut is not tight enough? If the lever is fixed in one position I suspect the problem is internal and it is just a matter of time before I need a new switch. For now I'll carry a wire to jump the starter solenoid in case it gives more serious trouble again.

The dealer did not change that potentiometer that detects the position of range selector. He changed the cruise control module which this potentiometer feeds. This NOT a switch it is a pot. Another word for it is variable resistor. The cruise module reads a variable voltage that comes out of the center lead (wiper) of the pot. I think it is 5 volts that is fed into the pot on its high side and the low side is grounded and the wiper is a variable voltage, which an integrator circuit in the cruise module reads this voltage and decides to light up the range lights or N light. There is a calibration alignment procedure and a test procedure in the manual. As for how the shaft is attached, I can't remember as I thew away the one that Motor 7 sent me a couple of years ago. I tested it as a pot and it was defective, it had some dead spots (resistance opened up) in its rotation. Motor 7 had already replaced this pot and it had solved his problem but wanted me to double check it and I confirmed it was defective. Let me know if I can be of any further.