Well crap. If I'd known that I would've moved the tractor within reach of a water hose before I tore it apart. Is it safe to drive it 50 yards with no radiator? (I assume not.) The radiator is now gone (to the shop). Do I need to stuff a garden hose into the upper radiator hose and run water through the block until it comes out clean at the lower hose? Or vice-versa?
Need Help - F24 Overheating
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Well crap. If I'd known that I would've moved the tractor within reach of a water hose before I tore it apart. Is it safe to drive it 50 yards with no radiator? (I assume not.) The radiator is now gone (to the shop). Do I need to stuff a garden hose into the upper radiator hose and run water through the block until it comes out clean at the lower hose? Or vice-versa?
normde2001
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That's what i would do, but as I originally said this must be done with the thermostat out, (that common sense thing again).
284 International
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I would run a length of radiator hose or something similar so you can fill the engine block with a cleaning solution and let it sit; 24 hours or so, perhaps more. Then I would flush with copious amounts of water, in both directions, splash a dollop of dish soap into a hose and flush until it comes out free of suds, just generally blast it clean. Some good auto parts stores have an adapter to connect a water hose and an air compressor so you can blast air and water through a radiator. This would help ensure that everything is clear and free of contaminants.
The last thing to do might be pull the water pump apart and inspect it, but I wouldn't do that until I had the radiator back and installed and proofed by running with straight water. If it works without boiling over, then drain the water, and refill with distilled water/antifreeze in the proper blend, and though it should be entirely unnecessary, a dose of Water Wetter or other surfactant.
Good luck!
The last thing to do might be pull the water pump apart and inspect it, but I wouldn't do that until I had the radiator back and installed and proofed by running with straight water. If it works without boiling over, then drain the water, and refill with distilled water/antifreeze in the proper blend, and though it should be entirely unnecessary, a dose of Water Wetter or other surfactant.
Good luck!
Well, I'm just about ready to go back to the horse and plow.
Picked up the rebuilt radiator yesterday afternoon; the guy that did the work said it was pretty cruddy inside. When I got it back it was clean and had a fresh coat of paint. Things were looking up.
Went over this morning and spent an hour or two putting the thing back together. Got all the nuts & bolts & hoses reattached and then put the lower side panels (mistake #1), hood (mistake #2), muffler (mistake #3), and side panels (mistake #4) back in place. Turned the key, and...nothing. Sent the kids outside so I could swear a bit. Tried again...nothing.
Gave the starter solenoid a few taps, turned the key, and she turned over. Took longer than usual (might've been because I removed the fuel line at the fuel filler cap to replace a hose clamp and got some air into the system?), but she eventually caught and fired. I pulled it out of the barn and parked on the driveway to observe. Within minutes, I had a whole mess of steady drips under the tractor. I thought it might've been just from where I missed the radiator fill when I refilled it, but it went on for too long for that to be the case. It looked like it might be coming from where the top radiator hose connects to the thermostat area, but it was hard to tell. Pulled it back into the barn and removed all the stuff I'd just spent hours putting back together (side panels, muffler, hood).
Drove over to the water hose and then: drained the radiator; removed the thermostat; pulled the upper and lower hoses off the radiator; stuffed the water hose into the upper hose and ran it for 6-8 minutes (water pouring out lower hose); stuffed the hose in the radiator fill and let it run out the bottom of the radiator for 6-8 minutes; put the hose in the bottom radiator elbow and let it overflow out the top for 6-8 minutes; then put it all back together, minus the t-stat (which I thought might be a problem). Filled with water and put back in the barn.
I let her run for another 10 minutes, and I've still got water dripping all over the bottom of the tractor. I got the compressed air line and blew everything out, thinking it might just be residual from the messy water hose adventure, but no dice. I've still got water coming from what I think is the water pump area (is that what the thermostat sits in?). By this time I was ready to shoot something and the kids were working my nerves, so I closed up the barn and headed home. Boiled the thermostat, and it seems to be working fine.
Questions: Does the thermostat go in with the spring up, or down? I thought that seemed like a no-brainer, but the only reason I could think of that fluid would suddenly be coming out there is that maybe I'd installed it wrong. Next: What now? Should I keep pulling stuff off, moving down to the water pump now?
Picked up the rebuilt radiator yesterday afternoon; the guy that did the work said it was pretty cruddy inside. When I got it back it was clean and had a fresh coat of paint. Things were looking up.
Went over this morning and spent an hour or two putting the thing back together. Got all the nuts & bolts & hoses reattached and then put the lower side panels (mistake #1), hood (mistake #2), muffler (mistake #3), and side panels (mistake #4) back in place. Turned the key, and...nothing. Sent the kids outside so I could swear a bit. Tried again...nothing.
Gave the starter solenoid a few taps, turned the key, and she turned over. Took longer than usual (might've been because I removed the fuel line at the fuel filler cap to replace a hose clamp and got some air into the system?), but she eventually caught and fired. I pulled it out of the barn and parked on the driveway to observe. Within minutes, I had a whole mess of steady drips under the tractor. I thought it might've been just from where I missed the radiator fill when I refilled it, but it went on for too long for that to be the case. It looked like it might be coming from where the top radiator hose connects to the thermostat area, but it was hard to tell. Pulled it back into the barn and removed all the stuff I'd just spent hours putting back together (side panels, muffler, hood).
Drove over to the water hose and then: drained the radiator; removed the thermostat; pulled the upper and lower hoses off the radiator; stuffed the water hose into the upper hose and ran it for 6-8 minutes (water pouring out lower hose); stuffed the hose in the radiator fill and let it run out the bottom of the radiator for 6-8 minutes; put the hose in the bottom radiator elbow and let it overflow out the top for 6-8 minutes; then put it all back together, minus the t-stat (which I thought might be a problem). Filled with water and put back in the barn.
I let her run for another 10 minutes, and I've still got water dripping all over the bottom of the tractor. I got the compressed air line and blew everything out, thinking it might just be residual from the messy water hose adventure, but no dice. I've still got water coming from what I think is the water pump area (is that what the thermostat sits in?). By this time I was ready to shoot something and the kids were working my nerves, so I closed up the barn and headed home. Boiled the thermostat, and it seems to be working fine.
Questions: Does the thermostat go in with the spring up, or down? I thought that seemed like a no-brainer, but the only reason I could think of that fluid would suddenly be coming out there is that maybe I'd installed it wrong. Next: What now? Should I keep pulling stuff off, moving down to the water pump now?
clemsonfor
Super Member
are you sure your water pump is not working? There is a "weep" hole that water will come from when the bearing are bad. But they leak when there bad. If there bad they cant pump the water like it should. If the water pump was bad this could be your whole problem from the start.
clemsonfor
Super Member
i am like winston you need to leave it together till you find whats leaking. Leave it togeather and blow the water off and watch where it leaking from.
284 International
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That must be very frustrating.
You need to be working through this methodically. You might very well be and it isn't coming across well, so forgive me if it seems like I'm attacking you.
A couple central dogmas: 1. The radiator and cooling system as a whole function to manage the excessive heat in your diesel engine. It should be neither too hot or too cold. 2. The cooling system as engineered and installed by Yanmar originally will allow the engine to output its maximum rated power essentially indefinitely without overheating.
Given those two truths, we can make a conclusion: If the tractor overheats, it is not installed as it was originally. That is, something has changed. We need to do detective work to isolate where/what exactly the difference has occurred.
I like to start simple, and work toward hard, and cheap toward expensive.
We have a glaring problem with the the leaking cooling system. That wasn't present before, apparently, so it must have happened as a result of re-assembly after the radiator was replaced.
If it is coming from the water pump area, there are essentially two options, assuming the pump wasn't removed: a) The seals in the water pump somehow went bad in the few days between pulling the radiator and now, and chose this precise moment to start leaking. This is possible, but not especially likely; mechanical devices tend to not magically "go bad," but to be fair seals are among those that might do so. b) The re-assembly is not correct, in alignment/sequence/intact components. Since "a" is unlikely, let's pursue "b."
In the diagram from water pump housing up, there is what looks like an O-ring, the thermostat, then a gasket, and finally the top hose mounting elbow. Are those parts on, in that order? If so, are they intact, correctly aligned, and properly torqued? Is the hose itself cracked? Is it fully seated over the elbow? Is the hose clamp properly attached? Don't fall into the trap of smearing silicone or other sealant everywhere: Remember, our central dogma is that if we put it together as Yanmar did, it's good for 30 years or more. Until logic dictates otherwise, we should always revert to the original configuration.
If you have found a simple fix, go ahead and correct it. If you have not, and everything appears correct, go to the auto parts store and rent a radiator pressure tester (If you don't still have the earlier one). It fits onto the radiator and allows you to pressurize the system. With everything assembled correctly, pressurize the system, and isolate the leak's location. If it is from the water pump's weep hole, then the seals will need to be replaced. If it is from a cracked thermostat housing, repair that. Etc. Etc. It may be helpful to write your own dichotomous key (the yes/no part to isolate the trouble) before your start down another path.
Use water instead of coolant in this process, if you haven't already done that. It's cheaper and less hazardous across the board. Then once you get it figured out, drain and fill correctly.
Work in baby steps, simply and rationally. There is a hole between the inside of the cooling system and the outside of it; you just need to figure out where.
Good luck, let us know how you do!
You need to be working through this methodically. You might very well be and it isn't coming across well, so forgive me if it seems like I'm attacking you.
A couple central dogmas: 1. The radiator and cooling system as a whole function to manage the excessive heat in your diesel engine. It should be neither too hot or too cold. 2. The cooling system as engineered and installed by Yanmar originally will allow the engine to output its maximum rated power essentially indefinitely without overheating.
Given those two truths, we can make a conclusion: If the tractor overheats, it is not installed as it was originally. That is, something has changed. We need to do detective work to isolate where/what exactly the difference has occurred.
I like to start simple, and work toward hard, and cheap toward expensive.
We have a glaring problem with the the leaking cooling system. That wasn't present before, apparently, so it must have happened as a result of re-assembly after the radiator was replaced.
If it is coming from the water pump area, there are essentially two options, assuming the pump wasn't removed: a) The seals in the water pump somehow went bad in the few days between pulling the radiator and now, and chose this precise moment to start leaking. This is possible, but not especially likely; mechanical devices tend to not magically "go bad," but to be fair seals are among those that might do so. b) The re-assembly is not correct, in alignment/sequence/intact components. Since "a" is unlikely, let's pursue "b."
In the diagram from water pump housing up, there is what looks like an O-ring, the thermostat, then a gasket, and finally the top hose mounting elbow. Are those parts on, in that order? If so, are they intact, correctly aligned, and properly torqued? Is the hose itself cracked? Is it fully seated over the elbow? Is the hose clamp properly attached? Don't fall into the trap of smearing silicone or other sealant everywhere: Remember, our central dogma is that if we put it together as Yanmar did, it's good for 30 years or more. Until logic dictates otherwise, we should always revert to the original configuration.
If you have found a simple fix, go ahead and correct it. If you have not, and everything appears correct, go to the auto parts store and rent a radiator pressure tester (If you don't still have the earlier one). It fits onto the radiator and allows you to pressurize the system. With everything assembled correctly, pressurize the system, and isolate the leak's location. If it is from the water pump's weep hole, then the seals will need to be replaced. If it is from a cracked thermostat housing, repair that. Etc. Etc. It may be helpful to write your own dichotomous key (the yes/no part to isolate the trouble) before your start down another path.
Use water instead of coolant in this process, if you haven't already done that. It's cheaper and less hazardous across the board. Then once you get it figured out, drain and fill correctly.
Work in baby steps, simply and rationally. There is a hole between the inside of the cooling system and the outside of it; you just need to figure out where.
Good luck, let us know how you do!
normde2001
Elite Member
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2002
- Messages
- 4,163
Why do you keep messing with that thermostat? It has nothing to do with your problem.
clemsonfor
Super Member
I think there is a good chance that maybe the T stat houseing is not sealed tight if the waterpump check well
