Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install.

   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #31  
Also, if the fuel injection pump is any good you won't be able to pump fuel through it to the injectors with the priming pump. You will only be able to do that if the barrel and plunger assemblies are worn.

View attachment 586768
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #32  
Better?

FIP.gif
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install.
  • Thread Starter
#33  
@Bob Rooks,
I'll check those banjo bolts per your idea. There's a good chance that I may have mixed something up, and if this is the problem it would be amazing. I needed to have this thing up and running months ago, but it's really stumped me and I can't find anyone locally to work on it so it's all on me which I don't really mind but need to get it running. Does anyone have a picture of what the hoses and banjo fitting should look like? It would be easier to figure out with something to match it up to.

What about the grinding noise I mentioned when turning the injection pump by hand it can be heard when going passed to compression stroke or at least I think that's what that spot that lifts the fuel is called. It sounds like someone running a screw driver over diamond plate and then goes smooth and quiet again until the next cycle.

Thank you for taking the time to try and help me through this, it's greatly appreciated.
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #34  
HAHAHAHA.. I JUST looked at the pics. the OP sent in & logged on to tell him the EXACT SAME THING Bob.!!!!
Good catch.. 1 of those banjo bolts should be a pressurizing valve or have an orifice in it.. AND.. it needs to go in the RETURN line..
MOST inj. pumps have the inlet in the front & the return in the back.. yours is backwards.. it may or may not make a diff., it just depends on how the housing is drilled..
DONT go bending lines.. the lines will "fall" where they're supposed to be.. unless ofcourse u bent them already putting it back together.??
U know the old saying>> a picture is worth a thousand words.?? IF we had that pic of the BEFORE AND AFTER.. there would be about 30 LESS posts.!!!
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #35  
HAHAHAHA.. I JUST looked at the pics. the OP sent in & logged on to tell him the EXACT SAME THING Bob.!!!!
Good catch.. 1 of those banjo bolts should be a pressurizing valve or have an orifice in it.. AND.. it needs to go in the RETURN line..
MOST inj. pumps have the inlet in the front & the return in the back.. yours is backwards.. it may or may not make a diff., it just depends on how the housing is drilled..
DONT go bending lines.. the lines will "fall" where they're supposed to be.. unless ofcourse u bent them already putting it back together.??
U know the old saying>> a picture is worth a thousand words.?? IF we had that pic of the BEFORE AND AFTER.. there would be about 30 LESS posts.!!!
Yeah, hahaha. That is why I highly recommend that DIY-ers take pictures when disassembling a project. I even do it myself on complex projects.
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #36  
@Bob Rooks,
I'll check those banjo bolts per your idea. There's a good chance that I may have mixed something up, and if this is the problem it would be amazing. I needed to have this thing up and running months ago, but it's really stumped me and I can't find anyone locally to work on it so it's all on me which I don't really mind but need to get it running. Does anyone have a picture of what the hoses and banjo fitting should look like? It would be easier to figure out with something to match it up to.

What about the grinding noise I mentioned when turning the injection pump by hand it can be heard when going passed to compression stroke or at least I think that's what that spot that lifts the fuel is called. It sounds like someone running a screw driver over diamond plate and then goes smooth and quiet again until the next cycle.

Thank you for taking the time to try and help me through this, it's greatly appreciated.
Use the annotated picture I posted, that's all you really need at this point. Leave the hoses alone and just swap the bolts. Let us know how it worked.
That screeching sound you hear is the barrel and plungers pumping fuel or calibration fluid that was in the pump. This will go away when the engine is running. Worst case scenario is a scored barrel, which means a defective fuel injection pump. Injectors will also squeal/squeak when being popped.
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install.
  • Thread Starter
#37  
HAHAHAHA.. I JUST looked at the pics. the OP sent in & logged on to tell him the EXACT SAME THING Bob.!!!!
Good catch.. 1 of those banjo bolts should be a pressurizing valve or have an orifice in it.. AND.. it needs to go in the RETURN line..
MOST inj. pumps have the inlet in the front & the return in the back.. yours is backwards.. it may or may not make a diff., it just depends on how the housing is drilled..
DONT go bending lines.. the lines will "fall" where they're supposed to be.. unless ofcourse u bent them already putting it back together.??
U know the old saying>> a picture is worth a thousand words.?? IF we had that pic of the BEFORE AND AFTER.. there would be about 30 LESS posts.!!!

Thanks for the info everyone, and I'll do the bolt swap and let you know what happens. The only line that's now bent is the line to the bottom of lift pump, the lift pump on this injection pump was on the opposite side of my old one and I have to get a new line to fix this issue. I just wanted to get it hooked up and running and then I will order a new line once I know it actually works.
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install. #38  
Sounds like a good plan. :thumbsup:
 
   / Need help getting tractor to run after new injection pump install.
  • Thread Starter
#39  
Well you all are absolutely amazing and I thank you very much. She's up and running after spending only 15 minutes to switch the bolts and bleed the system. I now need to know how to adjust the timing and when do I know if it's correct? It has a bit of black smoke pretty much all the time so I am assuming it's a bit to far advanced but what the heck do I know. Thanks again everyone and if you could help out with the timing I'd greatly appreciate it.
 

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