Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Pine,

Guess you know best, I will add it to the project. Any other comments??

Thanks

 

[Soundguy]

I agree.. relays and solenoids are high current switches.. let them do all the real work, and then use smaller wire for the switching circuitry. Besides.. you'd have to use headlight switches otherwise to get the high amerage per switch results anyway... Probably cheaper with a small toggle, and then auto relay.

Soundguy

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

The switches will be rated at 20 amps. If I use a relay what size wire can I use, runs will be about 6-10'?

Thanks

 

[PineRidge]

Tom you can use any SPST switch since the actual load will be handled by the FR-11 relay contacts which is rated at 40 amps. You can take your total wattage for each circuit and divide that by 12 to find out the actual amp draw. Then you will know what gauge wire that you need for that circuit.

TC-40D SS web pictures click here

 

[PineRidge]

Tom I scratched a wiring diagram together for you tonight based on your previous post.

<font color="blue"> I plan to run a 10 gauge wire from the battery to the (http://www.sherco-auto.com/catalog.pdf) fuse block on pg 10, HD Fuse Block # ET220, very short run less then 2 feet. From the fuse block I will run 3 separate circuits each on 12 gauge wire to a box with 3 switches, switch one: 2-55 watt front lights, switch two: rear single 55 watt light, switch 3: roof revolving light ( 1-55 watt bulb) and power to the windshield wiper, it has its own switch on the unit. I plan to add a 325 watt electric heater off the fuse block. </font>

I hope you don't take points off for my drawing skills. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
The color code on the relay's are based upon the 3 Sherico relay harnesses #SK-787. The way this diagram is laid out your windshield washer moter will only work when switch #3 and the switch on the wiper motor are both on at the same time. Personally I would split the hot wire from the revolving lamp and just run the motor hot wire to the spare fuse. That would give you control of that motor anytime that you needed it independent of the revolving lamp.

If I am not clear please ask questions. Please check all of your wiring before powering up the circuits. I might recommend heat shrink tubing over and wire connections to insulate them from shorting. Keep all the grounds as short as possible and run them to good connection points. Install the fuses last.

I would also recommend that you pass on the electric heater but that is your choice.

TC-40D SS web pictures click here

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Mike,

Thanks for taking the time to draw up a wiring diagram. The switches I am using are the Universal Illuminated Toggle DS313 on page 13. It looks like it has 3 poles, how does that figure into the wiring? Sorry for all the stupid questions.



Tom

 

[PineRidge]

Tom that's a nice looking switch. normally the third connection on the switch will be marked g for a ground connection to power up the lamp within the switch. The other two connections should remain the same as the ones in my drawing.

Most likely the markings will be:

b=battery or power
l=load
g=ground

TC-40D SS web pictures click here

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Mike,

Thanks for all your help on this project. It worked the first time!! I made some changes as follows. I used 8 gauge wire to feed the fuse block and used 14 gauge wire for the rear single light, and revolving yellow light. I used 10 gauge wire for the heater and 12 gauge for the 2 front lights. I fit all the relays, wire and switches in 6x8 inch box from Radio Shack. Will post pictures in a few days.

Thanks again for all your help and others who also provided guidance. TBN is GREAT /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[PineRidge]

Tom I'm glad to have helped you and that everything worked out as planned. Can't wait to see the pictures. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

 

[NY_Yankees_Fan]

Mike,

Got some pictures of the finished project.

Switch box