Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most

   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #51  
To simply answer your question, yes I am sure you can get something, but your specifics will dictate your options. If it were me I would stop by a local electrical distributor and talk to them about options. They should be able to help you out.

Information I would go with is the following.

-Location of plug/connector (i.e. covered in cab or out in weather).
- Number of wires needing to be connected/disconnected.
- rating of fuse/circuit protection of device upstream of connector.
- size of wires (you indicated 8 awg so this one you already have).

It could be expensive....8 awg can handle a lot of amps.

Another option would be a marine store possibly.

Good luck,
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #52  
Fred,

I am not sure what Curt has, but you can't draw more amperage than a fuse is rated for so either he doesn't have 55w rated lights or he has a larger fuse than 7.5 amps.

Each 55w light draws 4.58 amps at 12v.

You could run 35w lights at 2.91 amps and use 2 of them on a 7.5 amp circuit.

Hope this helps and Curt I am not intending to take any stab at you, just looking at the numbers and trying to make sure Fred doesn't go in the wrong direction.
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #53  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If your alternator/battery light comes on, is it telling you the alternator is not charging or is it telling you the battery is dead?

<font color="blue">Simply shutting down a pair of them would resolve the problem, </font>

That's what us illogical people need to know. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Don )</font>


Don for the answer to that you'd need to check you particular owners manual. I'm sure that many measure battery amperage when it gets to a preset "low" level and that lights the light to alert you. At that point, an idiot light is just what it is described as, it is simply a dumb light that tells you your battery has reached that preset level.

It can't tell you if your alternator is dead. It can't tell you if a mouse chewed the wiring and the alternator is functional but not sending current. It can't tell you that your battery is dead because it has no clue, (after all it is just a light bulb in your dash) however, if you have lights and power it is safe to say that you have some level of function from either your alternator or battery or most likely both.

Typically, a simple shutting down of the offending light would not only resolve the problem but start the process of recharging the battery. The draw down of the battery, if it happens is very similar, in my simple mind, to the way hydraulic systems work. You have a hydraulic pump that is rated at "x" gpm of flow. If you are working the loader it is likely taking all the available flow that the pump is pushing. If you are working the loader AT THE SAME TIME you are ALSO working a Top N Tilt system then the hydraulic flow is split between the 2 and the speed of the cylinders is reduced. Is it likely that you will be operating BOTH at the same time on a small CUT . . . probably not, but if it did occur it would not be for extended periods of time, it would likely be for a few moments. The parallel is drawn to the electrical system, in that you are typically not driving forward and reverse at the same time so you typically don't need 6 55-watt lamps pointing forward and also need 2 55-watt lamps pointing rearward, and have them all lit up. At that point it would be more likely that you'd melt the hair on your head and blind yourself as you rotated in your seat looking both forward and aft. Now all that said, I'm still talking about relatively small cabless tractors here. If we want to move up to a real AG tractor, then I'd probably want a 70+ amp alternator to power 8 lamps forward so I could work the fields at night. I'd probably want 2 to 4 reaward as well so I could see my implement. But then I'd probably be pulling a 12 to 20 foot wide implement and working a field significantly larger than a few acre lawn and a 72" mower deck.
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #54  
Tom,
The answer to your problem is Sermos connectors, AKA Anderson PowerPoles.
A quick google search came up with this PAGE ,But there many more dealers.

I have used the small ones in my RC hobby for may years with great success. We also use the large ones at work for connecting battery strings together.

Hope this helps...
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #55  
That's a good point you make about turning in the seat and being blinded by a light, Bob. I had intended on running all four at the same time. I plow snow in both directions (FEL and rear blade) and unless the light switches were somehow hooked up to the HST pedal..., it seemed more practical to turn them all on and leave them on. I may need to make a "horse blinder" type side shield if that's going to be a problem.
So, does anyone have a good online source for all the necessary stuff - lights, marine switches, wire, fuses, black flex conduit..., or a onetime stop that may be local like a Carquest or similar (I won't shop at NAPA anymore)? Am I going to have to buy at a few places?

Oh, and FWIW, I saw a Nat Geo special on dogs one time and they said the safest place to cross a city block was about 20 ft from an intersection, not at the intersection and not in the middle. Apparently strays learn this on their own. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #56  
Freds . . . I purchased my stuff from Go2Marine over the internet. They obviously are a marine supplier. I wanted waterproof stuff. Go2Marine Web Site

There are probably dozens of other sources for the same/similar parts.

IF you are at all worried about drawing down your battery, and you want to run 4 lamps at once, you might want to consider 2 35 watt lamps and 2 55 watt lamps. That would likely keep you at 40 Amps. Your own use will determine if it ever becomes an issue, but I'd probably feel very safe with 4 55watt lamps and just switch them off when not really needed.
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #57  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Can a larger alternator overcome less than ideal circuitry? )</font>

NO

What you are seeing is simply 'overrating' built in.. A 7.5 FA fuse would have popped. he's using a SB, and running it right to the edge. Also.. keep in mind many of these lamps watt ratings, and amp ratings may be calcs done on paper at 12v. An alternator kicking out 14.7 v changes those calcs... . Smaller wire can carry more power without increasing amps due to a higher voltage. That's why a 6v battery cable looks like your thumb.. and a 12v battery cable looks like your finger... It was a big money saver in copper alone to go to 12v systems.. think of voltage as 'pressure'.. etc.


I think Bob's post summed it up good. A slight discharge on the systeme is probably going to be ok.. the storage battery will handle it for hours.. just depends on what the output rating and duty cycle on the alt is.. if it's max 'I' for infinite 'T'.. then running at full load is fine. It would only become a problem if you had a fuel cutoff solenoid, and your voltage dropped below the 'hold' threshold for the relay... of course at that point you probably couldn't re-start either!

Soundguy
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #58  
Thanks guys!
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #59  
I was browsing through some lights on Ebay among other places and have a question:
Flood, spot, driving, fog... /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
I was thinking the floods because you really don't need a piercing beam that shines a mile down the road, just something that lights up the area around the tractor at low speed. Fogs may fit in here also.

What do you all favor for your auxillery lights?
Thanks
 
   / Need Help, Lights, I must be dummer than most #60  
I would opt for the widest beam possible, flood would be my choice.

The problem with most fog lights is they are designed for low mounting near the ground, if you want to mount on the ROPs the pattern spread is not quite what you might hope for. (Don't ask me how I found that out, but I might have some laying around if you are interested /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif)

Driving lights will throw out a nice bean well in front, but remember they are designed for cars doing 55+ mph and you will need to light up the area around a slow moving tractor.
 

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