Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs?

   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #11  
I work as a Civil Engineering Tech. The way most streets are being redone or built as new is as follows. First you excavate to a natural firm base. Compact this base. Add clay fill to subgrade. Normally compaction requirements are 100% of standard proctor for the top 3 feet of the subgrade and 95% for anything greater than 3 feet. Once the subgrade is compacted it is roll tested with a loaded tandem dump truck. Any deflection greater than 2" is a failure. Once roll test is passed fabric is placed and anywhere from 1 to 2 feet of granular material is placed on it. This granular material is compacted to 100% standard proctor. Next you place a 12" layer of class 5 compacted to 100% standard proctor. Then you do another roll test. If all passes you place the base course of bituminous, usally 2" - 3" (all depends on the mix design). Last thing is the wear course, usually 1-1/2".
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #12  
One other thing I forgot. Ask the contractor for a written warranty.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #13  
I had my driveway done about 8 years ago and they dug out all the old material and put down a base of stone and stone dust. Then put down a 3" base coat of bituminous concrete. This is the only material that I have had for the last 8 years. I have had numerous dump trucks, excavators, bulldozers, oil trucks, trash trucks, etc. over the driveway and it still is intact. I did have some areas that were just dug out, because of the harshly cold winters, boulders have been pushed up and have caused a high spot on the driveway. These boulders must be removed before the final coat is being put down next month. To do the final coat, they are going to spread a "glue" and then put down a leveling course. The it will be rolled and a final 1 1/2" top coat is going to be put down. The asphalt (bituminous concrete) that the contractor that I use uses is made up to MA State formula for highway use. Different contractors spec the formula depending on use and to keep the cost down. I was just talking to the contractor about this a couple of days ago. He told me that asphalt is running about $35 - $43 per ton, depending on where he purchases it. He also commented that the company that supplied my original material was not producing the quality product that they once did. It was his opinion that they were using about 2 gallons less asphalt per ton. He also told me that some of the manufacturers were putting in a larger percentage of "old road grindings" to cheapen the mixture. He is very particular about the mix and his work shows it. Remember it is better to pay more initially than to save a few dollars and have a job that doesn't last. I feel that doing it my way.... having the base coat done and waiting a couple of years to put down the top coat is best. We now know what rocks/boulders would be the problem and have eliminated them. When the original base coat was done, there was no signs of any of these rocks. They must have been down deep, because they spent 2 days just preparing the "bed" of the driveway before they put down the base coat.
I would ask for references of jobs that were done a few years back. All driveways look good when they are new. Also ask about the material specification and how many tons of material that they plan on using. Try to get a "state specification mix" if at all possible. Also, don't worry about the sides. All you have to do is back fill the sides with loam and plant the grass. Once the loam is packed down and grass growing the sides will be supported. It is important that water doesn't infiltrate under the driveway, so make sure that any source of water is diverted. I wouldn't consider doing any part of the job. That is what the contractor is being paid for and in reality, you won't save much doing any of the grading yourself and if the driveway should fail, it will be blamed on what work you have performed. I would do a Google search and learn as much as possible about the process and then ask the questions of the contractors. The better educated you are, the better a job you can expect because of that knowledge. Call the asphalt plant and see who they recommend. Call the town and ask who does their work. Just don't deal with the guy that has one truck and a paver that is here today and gone tomorrow. There are a lot of good contractors out there, you just have to find them.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs?
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Thanks everybody for the info. I've got calls into a couple local contractors that neighbors (local banker & developer) have recommended.

Junkman - what kind of condition was your previous driveway in?

I'm guessing that the soils under my driveway are OK, as I don't have any pothole problems. I think that may be dumb luck vs. any planning on the builders part (we are third owners of property).

If the exsiting subgrade passes the loaded truck test, do I still need 6" of crushed stone? I will be discussing this with the contractors of course.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #15  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( If the exsiting subgrade passes the loaded truck test, do I still need 6" of crushed stone? )</font>

Probably not. I would like to see it, but it's not my money.

One thing to beware of with driveway construction is compaction. One reason I believe driveways break up is that the asphalt is poorly compacted. The toy rollers used by driveway contractors don't have the compactive effect as a bigger road roller. The result is under compacred asphalt with voids. I think that's one reason why driveways crumble and the local street doesn't.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #16  
Most asphalt fails due to poorly prepared bases. You want a certain percent of voids, usually 4 - 5 %. You must have a firm base to push against to compact the asphalt. Just remember the firmer the cushion the better the pushing. Do your contractors do a rolling pattern to determine density of the asphalt when they install it? Usually you want to be 95% of the Marshall or Rice density. Again ask for a warranty.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #17  
The original driveway was built up gravel over a dirt / clay sub soil. My contractor used a vibratory roller on everything. We were out to dinner with him this evening and I asked about "chip seal" driveways. He said that today, it is just as expensive as an asphalt driveway because of where the materials have to be trucked from. The liquid asphalt comes from RI and the chipped rock has to be trucked it from a distant location. He didn't say where and I didn't ask. He just suggested that we start saving our pennies for the final coat. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif He has become a good friend from when he first did the paving for us a long time ago. From everything that I have learned from him, the mix is only the second most important part of driveway quality. The base is the most important. The best material will fail if the base isn't done properly. The other thing to keep in mind is that you want to make sure that there is no water infiltrating under the drive. Do what ever it takes to make sure that the water goes over the drive, not under it.
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #18  
Junkman,

Excellent and well written advice in your posts, my stepdad was a foreman for a commercial paver for twenty years and everything you pointed out is factual. We had our driveway paved 12 years ago, formerly it was gravel over dirt/clay soil, it had been compacted over a 50 year period.

After 12 years our asphalt is still in fairly good shape, except where they formed the edge at an angle. Where the edges are squared off and full thickness, there is little cracking, but the angled edges are thinner and starting to crumble. When we have the drive redone in a year or two, I am going to ask the paver to leave the edges full thickness and not tamp them down at an angle.

What do you think?
 
   / Need help New Driveway - Asphalt paving specs? #19  
Full thickness edges and backfill with a good quality loam. Plant grass to keep the soil in place and have the grass about 1/4" - 1/2" higher than the edge of the driveway. This will protect the edges from breaking and crumbling by your car. If a heavy truck goes off the edge, all bets are off... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
I have a friend that has a commercial piece of property and has had the parking lot and driveway sealed by a commercial company that does striping and parking lot maintenance. He has done this for the past 25 years and the asphalt is in perfect condition. If a driveway is installed properly originally, and it is taken care of properly, then it will last almost indefinitely. The problem is that people allow grass to start in the cracks, they don't have the cracks repaired, and when a pot hole starts, they just keep driving in it pushing out the material and weakening the edges around the hole making it larger. Maintenance doesn't cost, it saves. This is a hard lesson for many home owners to learn, and a lot of them think that the products that they purchase at the large box store are of comparable quality to the products that the commercial companies use. Another thing to be leery of is the "(***** term deleted)" sealing companies that come around in the warm months offering to seal your driveway for a small fee. They use some tar and fuel oil and spray it so it will look black again, but the material that they use is like putting colored water on the driveway. A good contractor never goes door to door soliciting business. He doesn't have to, he has all the referral work that he needs. Quality is always commensurate with price, but price is not always commensurate with quality. Know who you are dealing with and watch what they are doing. It is worth taking a day off of work to observe, so you know that what you are paying for you are getting. Don't be afraid to take out your ruler and measure to see that you get 1 1/2" of asphalt that you were quoted for in the price. If you are not there, you have no idea of what the thickness is, and by the time the driveway fails, the installer will be long gone with your money.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2025 REDEDLIFT CPD25-XD4 FORKLIFT (A51222)
2025 REDEDLIFT...
2010 Buick Enclave CXL SUV (A48082)
2010 Buick Enclave...
2017 Ford F-450 Crew Cab Mason Dump Truck (A50323)
2017 Ford F-450...
2025 12v Diesel Fuel Pump (A48081)
2025 12v Diesel...
Tubing A500 Grade C 6in. SQ X 1/4in. X 28ft. (A50860)
Tubing A500 Grade...
Road Master Bike w/Engine (A50860)
Road Master Bike...
 
Top