Need help on dry branch water control

ampsucker · Jul 2, 2009

ahhh, you can really tell this is a tractor website! all the ideas involve moving tons of rock or dirt!

i'll throw this out: how about working "with" the earth and planting a series of trees, shrubs and grasses to help prevent erosion and slow the flow of water. you might try doing a little research to see what grows naturally in your area and is flood tolerant. usually birches, willows, switch grass, cat tails, marsh plants, etc.

i do agree that the normal solution is to dig a trench or channel wide enough to handle peak flow and contain it during flooding periods. this is how they handle water control "in towns". but, i think you have the advantage of having the second option of basically creating a huge "rain garden" (google it if you don't know about this trend) and then you'll have a nice wildlife habitat during low water conditions instead of a big ugly hole waiting for water to fill it a couple of times a year.

amp

Redneck in training · Jul 2, 2009

We have similar problem on our land. I am thinking about planting freeze resistant bamboo from China in the ravines to slow the water down and prevent erosion and promote sedimentation. Some of our ravines (started by overgrazing by previous owner) advance about 10 to 15 ft a year. I also cut a ditch across the slope above the ravine and diverted water to our pond. That project is still in progress.

ampsucker · Jul 2, 2009

be careful about bamboo and other non-native, invasive species.

i've heard/read horror stories about trying to eradicate bamboo when it didn't work out. roundup doesn't work on the stuff and it can grow a foot a day. be very sure it's what you want before you get it started.

amp

Danno1 · Jul 2, 2009

.

Ya, I was gonna say the same thing about the bamboo! I wouldn't do it.

.

LostInTheWoods · Jul 3, 2009

studor said:
The rip rap will act to slow down the flow and allow the water to disperse more underground. The more rock you have in the low spots, the better it will disperse. It should act like a french drain --- the water will follow the path of least resistance through the rock and not wash out the soil on either side. I would dig out the channel and fill it with rock as much as possible to encourage that dispersion and stop erosion. Dams are going to end up as debris on your lawn sooner or later

I agree this would help a lot, but the best I can see from the pics, this might take A LOT of rock! And sounds like getting it to the problem areas upstream will be difficult.

If you can't divert the water, then the short answer I can think of is that almost anything you do will help (except bamboo...very invasive). You could create artificial log jams and rock piles upstream if appearances aren't too important. I would think if you built them higher on the sides, but a bit lower in the middle, this would prevent the edges from washing out, and the water just making a new path around your obstruction.

There are some formulas you can find online that will help you determine the amount of flow you can expect from a given area of land. This could help you calculate things like dam size or drainage pipe sizes, if you plan on going with something like that. If you want them, let me know and I'll send you links.

Do you have a Soil Conservation or similar office in your county. Here in KY, they will come out to your site no charge and offer suggestions.

Good luck!

carpenter383 · Jul 3, 2009

LostInTheWoods said:
I agree this would help a lot, but the best I can see from the pics, this might take A LOT of rock! And sounds like getting it to the problem areas upstream will be difficult.

If you can't divert the water, then the short answer I can think of is that almost anything you do will help (except bamboo...very invasive). You could create artificial log jams and rock piles upstream if appearances aren't too important. I would think if you built them higher on the sides, but a bit lower in the middle, this would prevent the edges from washing out, and the water just making a new path around your obstruction.

There are some formulas you can find online that will help you determine the amount of flow you can expect from a given area of land. This could help you calculate things like dam size or drainage pipe sizes, if you plan on going with something like that. If you want them, let me know and I'll send you links.

Do you have a Soil Conservation or similar office in your county. Here in KY, they will come out to your site no charge and offer suggestions.

Good luck!

Sure I'd like to get those links, I would appreciate it. I've started moving some large creek rocks to build a couple restrictive dams in the ravine. This has to be done by hand because it's in accesible on my tractor. I'm gonna try to make a few different "piles" of rock in strategic locations and see how it works......Thanks everyone for your help

LostInTheWoods · Jul 3, 2009

I'm going to try to figure out how to send a message to you directly...what I have is kind of lengthy, not sure if its appropriate to clog up the post with so much stuff... if it doesn't come through, let me know.

dillo99 · Jul 5, 2009

I am with Polekat...I would not try to dam the creek or slow the flow. I had a ravine on my old property like this and when it was running you really had to watch out. Don't underestimate the power or volume of water. Your obstacles could easily move around and create a large dam at the wrong place and time. The result could be a really nasty flood of water and debris when it breaks. The real problem is the narrowing of the ravine that ultimately occurs in your yard. You basically have a funnel. If you have the room, I would focus on widening the creek bed in the problem area - give the water more room there and you won't a problem anymore. In the long run, this will be easier (you have access) and a more successful approach.

That's my humble opinion.

POC · Jul 6, 2009

You're in Indiana, can't you wrangle up a sinkhole for that water to run into??

(Southern Indiana, with sinkhole densities up to 1022 per square mile)

carpenter383 · Jul 6, 2009

POC said:
You're in Indiana, can't you wrangle up a sinkhole for that water to run into??

(Southern Indiana, with sinkhole densities up to 1022 per square mile)

Yes there are alot of sinkholes and caves around, but there aren't any accessible ones for this application. My whole area is pretty much on solid rock so the water doesn't soak into the ground that fast either.