Need help on sheeting a garage.

[Industrial Toys]

WELL, I found the problem, the whole Garage does slope to the rear, by about 3/4" in three feet. Explains why water always went to the back of the building. Floating slab, built around 66. I would love to cut a trench in the concrete, to divert any little amount of water but much of my stuff has wheels or I use a pallet truck.

SO, what does one do? Still try and build and mount everything plumb inside? And deal wth the headaches of adjusting every sheet?

 

[Deere Dude]

Pound a drain hole in the outside wall and let it drain onto the ground, if possible. Adjusting every sheet is NOT a big deal. Measure and cut it off.

 

[JK22]

this is how I hope to eliminate the water on floor soaking into the wall covering.

I so wish I had that done in my new garage.

 

[Chris616]

this is how I hope to eliminate the water on floor soaking into the wall covering.

So this looks like my 2-storey shop, where the structural concrete walls were poured first with footings that go some distance down, then the floor slab was poured afterwards. In the photo, was this 3-4" high concrete "plinth" instead formed and poured on top of the previously poured slab?

Chris

 

[Industrial Toys]

The two sheets are done and actually much higher than I had planned off the floor on account of the screwups. A little better than 3/4", just enough to catch the 2x4 plate.

 

[clemsonfor]

WELL, I found the problem, the whole Garage does slope to the rear, by about 3/4" in three feet. Explains why water always went to the back of the building. Floating slab, built around 66. I would love to cut a trench in the concrete, to divert any little amount of water but much of my stuff has wheels or I use a pallet truck.

SO, what does one do? Still try and build and mount everything plumb inside? And deal wth the headaches of adjusting every sheet?

You can cut a drain and put one of those metal grates over it. There smooth somewhat and use them in shops. Then divert to real drain or turn to the outside of building

 

[Industrial Toys]

I would love to do that, but have too many other projects that need to be done first. So I will just have to keep an eye on the ice and water situation.

 

[EddieWalker]

Sounds like the water is going to be an ongoing issue and there isn't a good solution to stop it from happening. Water and wood, drying and getting wet again, will create mold. Lots of it!!

If it was my place, I would install PVC trim of some kind on the floor, next to the sill plates. I would buy whatever is cheapest. I think Lowes has some solid white PVC 1x2 trim. I would put down a thick bead of flashing sealant, or something that is designed to water proof your floor. Is it concrete? Caulking and silicone would not be an option.

Then I would run another bead at the edge of the PVC on the ground an use my finger to make sure that it's solid so no moisture could get under it.

Then I would cut the OSB and install it on top of the PVC. I would probably pt the cut side at the top and use the factory cut side on the bottom.

 

[3Ts]

Then I would run another bead at the edge of the PVC on the ground an use my finger to make sure that it's solid so no moisture could get under it.

I'm sure your concrete is porous so even thou water may not seep thru or under the PVC, it is capable of going thru the concrete. Depending on how much area is affected, you could also pour a layer of self leveling concrete in the low section to change the way the water flows.

As long as you can get the water out quickly the concrete won't absorb much. It's also possible to seal the concrete to reduce the water absorption.

 

[clemsonfor]

I'm sure your concrete is porous so even thou water may not seep thru or under the PVC, it is capable of going thru the concrete. Depending on how much area is affected, you could also pour a layer of self leveling concrete in the low section to change the way the water flows.

As long as you can get the water out quickly the concrete won't absorb much. It's also possible to seal the concrete to reduce the water absorption.

I was thinking the same on self leveling. Unless like you said the area prohibits this. Or 2000sqft for 3/4" like you said. That would be a TON of self leveler