jaxs
Elite Member
That's correct. I doubt you will find a shaft including clutch for $150. There are sources for 1/2 shafts. You could also shorten a regular male shaft if that's all you can find.
Need help understanding PTO shaft designs
- Thread starter erkme73
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That's correct. I doubt you will find a shaft including clutch for $150. There are sources for 1/2 shafts. You could also shorten a regular male shaft if that's all you can find.
bspeedy
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From the pics you've posted, I would try to get them working. The tiller doesn't look like it has many hours on it. Many people treat implements very poorly. Fail to lube, store outside, etc. I see them as a major investment and treat them accordingly. Most of them can be brought back from the brink to be usable tools.
Xfaxman
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Since the paint is worn off of the shaft, I think it is the male half. Not sure how the safety label survived, the female half must have been cut off real short.---------------------------------------------
Since I'm so green on this stuff, I have no idea what these parts are called, or how to compare them. So, I humbly ask the following:
-----------------------
3) In the case of the shorter, larger diameter shaft on the tiller, is there a way to determine if the other half should slip inside (or over) the existing part?
It's a bit overwhelming when I'm so illiterate, that I don't even know what the parts are called...
Go look at a new tiller and measure the male shaft diameter.
Fallon
Super Member
King Kutter is the OEM for some of the TSC County Line impliments. Tarter gate makes some other stuff. Varies between year & what side of the country you are on. Both are decent economy manufacturers, good bang for the buck but not high end.
PTO shafts are comodity items. On my 3pt trencher it was cheaper to get a whole new shaft than just getting 2 longer tubes.
PTO shafts are comodity items. On my 3pt trencher it was cheaper to get a whole new shaft than just getting 2 longer tubes.
Gregster613
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Hi erkme73,
I have that exact tiller. I bought it from TSC approx 5 years ago and it's been a good tiller thus far. I changed my brackets around some so it would better fit my quick hitch. I had a fitment issue and thought I had cut my PTO shaft to short. I looked in the manual, called the company, and they sold me a complete new shaft with slip-clutch for about $180.00.
Yours is on backwards and you can easily buy a replacement. Just bolt on and go to work. If you want to save money you can listen to all the great advice you receive here and search for a replacement end. It does get confusing in the individual piece department tho. and you still have to reverse the slip-clutch section. Up to you.
My original tiller teeth worn out rapidly though. They seemed soft. I replaced all 42 with some made of Boron steel. Will see how that improves lifespan. I have "very" hard clay soil and never get enough rain to till properly; it is what it is. I've had good luck with my medium level tiller and hope you will to.
Greg
I looked again at the picture just above my post. It looks as if that may indeed be the female end and not actually installed backwards. If so you just need to go to TSC and match up with the male section. At any rate, just go to TSC and look at their tillers on display and you'll soon see whatever part you need. Maybe they have the end section you need on their shelf and it'll be much cheaper than a new shaft. Good luck.
I have that exact tiller. I bought it from TSC approx 5 years ago and it's been a good tiller thus far. I changed my brackets around some so it would better fit my quick hitch. I had a fitment issue and thought I had cut my PTO shaft to short. I looked in the manual, called the company, and they sold me a complete new shaft with slip-clutch for about $180.00.
Yours is on backwards and you can easily buy a replacement. Just bolt on and go to work. If you want to save money you can listen to all the great advice you receive here and search for a replacement end. It does get confusing in the individual piece department tho. and you still have to reverse the slip-clutch section. Up to you.
My original tiller teeth worn out rapidly though. They seemed soft. I replaced all 42 with some made of Boron steel. Will see how that improves lifespan. I have "very" hard clay soil and never get enough rain to till properly; it is what it is. I've had good luck with my medium level tiller and hope you will to.
Greg
I looked again at the picture just above my post. It looks as if that may indeed be the female end and not actually installed backwards. If so you just need to go to TSC and match up with the male section. At any rate, just go to TSC and look at their tillers on display and you'll soon see whatever part you need. Maybe they have the end section you need on their shelf and it'll be much cheaper than a new shaft. Good luck.
Last edited:
Thanks for all the support and recommendations, everyone. I ended up buying the shaft $117 + shipping (around $150) from a seller on eBay. I sent him the manual for the tiller, and he responded with the link to the shaft - which he said was specific to that tiller - and included the slip-clutch. Here's the link to the shaft.
I was originally going for his listing that was listed for the King Kutter tiller. He said that one would need to be cut to fit, where the one above (which he recommended) should fit w/o trimming. It arrived today, but I haven't had time to install it. Hopefully in the next day or two. Will post back here with the results.
I was originally going for his listing that was listed for the King Kutter tiller. He said that one would need to be cut to fit, where the one above (which he recommended) should fit w/o trimming. It arrived today, but I haven't had time to install it. Hopefully in the next day or two. Will post back here with the results.
DieselBound
Elite Member
The tines don't look very worn on that tiller. Maybe just looks cruddy because it's sat.
Gearboxes- I'd look to drain and replace fluids and generally clean things up so I could watch for leaks. Check blade bolts, belts and chains. Grease all grease fittings (don't forget the ones for the 3pt bits on your tractor!).
PTO shafts ARE important to keep in proper working condition. No one every brought this to my attention: I ended up running one RC with a PTO that didn't have any covers on either end. Keep these properly greased and the shafts lubed (a PTO I recently got from Bare Co. is supposed to be lubed every 10 hours of use). Liquid Film (or Slick Stuff - basically a knock-off of Liquid Film, but cheaper, as knock-offs tend to be) are supposed to be good for shaft lubrication (learned that here and I'm going by it until proven otherwise).
Learn how PTO shafts are measured and be sure to only use shafts that meet spec. I bought a used RC for my NX5501 that the PO had used commercially (really beat!); he said he replaced the PTO shaft. OK, great, I thought... Checked it over to find that one of the U-joints was starting to fail so I had my local NAPA pop a new one in. Lasted a few hours. I believe what went wrong was that the shaft was NOT straight and that it was too short (overlap). I went with a heavier-duty shaft from Bare Co., one that actually met my required spec (didn't have to cut it). My new tiller required cutting the PTO shaft- measure THREE time and then a FOURTH before cutting! Also, know about shear pins and slip clutches, when each makes sense, how to deal with both (if both used). In most cases a tiller will have a slip clutch on the PTO (yours does) as this will allow you to till more and replace shear pins less.
PTO shaft guards can be replaced. I really like the ones from Bare Co. (Bare Co USA - Shaft Guard). I bought a new PTO from them and it had their guard: have not bought separately though.
Gearboxes- I'd look to drain and replace fluids and generally clean things up so I could watch for leaks. Check blade bolts, belts and chains. Grease all grease fittings (don't forget the ones for the 3pt bits on your tractor!).
PTO shafts ARE important to keep in proper working condition. No one every brought this to my attention: I ended up running one RC with a PTO that didn't have any covers on either end. Keep these properly greased and the shafts lubed (a PTO I recently got from Bare Co. is supposed to be lubed every 10 hours of use). Liquid Film (or Slick Stuff - basically a knock-off of Liquid Film, but cheaper, as knock-offs tend to be) are supposed to be good for shaft lubrication (learned that here and I'm going by it until proven otherwise).
Learn how PTO shafts are measured and be sure to only use shafts that meet spec. I bought a used RC for my NX5501 that the PO had used commercially (really beat!); he said he replaced the PTO shaft. OK, great, I thought... Checked it over to find that one of the U-joints was starting to fail so I had my local NAPA pop a new one in. Lasted a few hours. I believe what went wrong was that the shaft was NOT straight and that it was too short (overlap). I went with a heavier-duty shaft from Bare Co., one that actually met my required spec (didn't have to cut it). My new tiller required cutting the PTO shaft- measure THREE time and then a FOURTH before cutting! Also, know about shear pins and slip clutches, when each makes sense, how to deal with both (if both used). In most cases a tiller will have a slip clutch on the PTO (yours does) as this will allow you to till more and replace shear pins less.
PTO shaft guards can be replaced. I really like the ones from Bare Co. (Bare Co USA - Shaft Guard). I bought a new PTO from them and it had their guard: have not bought separately though.
RalphVa
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You don't mention what type of end pieces the shafts have, e.g. the piece that goes over the tractor's shaft.
My original ones for the 4010 tractor and its JD bush hog came with one of those pull-back covers to release the splines inside to slide over the PTO shaft. This, to me, is a very bad design, e.g. you're pulling on one part while pushing the whole bit the other way. I favor (and now all I have) the push button type. They have a push button that releases the splines inside. Even those 2 are different. The one on my chipper/shredder has a very well defined push button; whereas, the one on the end of the bush hog PTO shaft has a push button that's near recessed. I've glued a piece onto it to make it project up more, to make it easier to push.
I always put the PTO in the "forward" position (neutral, if you don't have a forward one) so that you can rotate the shaft to find the right orientation of the shaft to allow the PTO to go onto it. Of course, grease both first with white grease, but I also put some of that special slippery stuff around the ends of the splines (forgotten what it's called: very slippery stuff).
You'll also want those implements on dollies or wheels where possible, to make it easy to move them about to get them in the right position to get the lift arms on.
Ralph
My original ones for the 4010 tractor and its JD bush hog came with one of those pull-back covers to release the splines inside to slide over the PTO shaft. This, to me, is a very bad design, e.g. you're pulling on one part while pushing the whole bit the other way. I favor (and now all I have) the push button type. They have a push button that releases the splines inside. Even those 2 are different. The one on my chipper/shredder has a very well defined push button; whereas, the one on the end of the bush hog PTO shaft has a push button that's near recessed. I've glued a piece onto it to make it project up more, to make it easier to push.
I always put the PTO in the "forward" position (neutral, if you don't have a forward one) so that you can rotate the shaft to find the right orientation of the shaft to allow the PTO to go onto it. Of course, grease both first with white grease, but I also put some of that special slippery stuff around the ends of the splines (forgotten what it's called: very slippery stuff).
You'll also want those implements on dollies or wheels where possible, to make it easy to move them about to get them in the right position to get the lift arms on.
Ralph