Need help, Water well losing prime??

[dntfxr]

Hi folks,
I had a well put in at the homestead around a month ago. Recently my water pressure will drop to around 10psi and the pump continues to run. But if I open the faucet by the well to wide open, the pressure will shoot back up to 45 almost instantly. I don't think the switches would have anything to do with it because the pump is running. Could it be that the well cap is too airtight, not allowing the water to fill the well? Or maybe not airtight enough? Idk, any advice or suggestions?
Thanks

 

[Localmotion]

Not sure - but if your pump has an airbag fitted (to hold a larger reserve of water under pressure, I'd guess the bag is leaking... We've had that happen a few times - without air pressure in the bag the pump cuts out and the water pressure drops back a little. Then when a tap is opened the pmp cuts in and pressurizes again.

Anoth thought - if you only had it installed last month, shouldn't the installer be called to sort out the problem for free?

 

[dntfxr]

Thanks for the reply, hopefully I can get this this thing sorted quickly. It does have an air bladder tank, hadn't thought of that. I'll try to check the pressure on it.
Yeah I'll see the installer tomorrow. I'll ask him about it then, he's a good friend I just keep forgetting to bring it up, and kinda hate to bug him about it since he did it at cost too, like 1800$. But he can probably diagnose it just from the description hopefully. Thanks again
B

 

[TCJatko]

I'm betting Localmotion is right on the money.

 

[Qapla]

Since the pump is not shutting off before the pressure resumes I doubt the problem is with the tank. I would suspect that one of the connection on the well side of the pump has a small air leak and causing the pump to cavitate - opening the faucet allows the air to be push out fast enough that the pump recovers.

There is a check valve of some type on the well side I would hope. It may be a foot valve down the well or a check valve between the well and the pump. You may also have some type of check after the pump, but if you have a pump above ground (as opposed to a submersible pump) you need to have a check valve before the pump.

 

[Localmotion]

I'm guessing Qapla is right with a small air leak - as he says the pump would cut out before the pressure dropping back if it was the air bag...

I'll read the post properly next time :confused3:

 

[Egon]

Tank pressure about 10 psi but full pressure at the well head and the pump is running??

What's the flow volume and pressure like at a tap downstream of the tank?

 

[dntfxr]

When the pressure drops to 10 psi the flow is greatly reduced, but normally it's good. It is a submersible pump and he said my formation was upside down so he had to put a different pump that is at the very bottom of the well. It seems to be cavitating when it loses pressure and in fact the water will be warm when I first crack the faucet I assume from the pump getting warm. I'm not really sure why though... My first thought is that the wellhead is so airtight that a vacuum is keeping it from getting prime.. I dunno. I'm going to see my driller buddy tomorrow and he'll have some input and if he can't diagnose it from my description I'll get him out here this week. Thanks for the replies and I'm open to suggestions.

 

[Clint S]

Need a little more info is it a submersible pump or suction. A bad bladder type tank that is waterlogged will make the pump cut on and off in rapid succession. An air leak could certainly cause these issues especially in a suction type

 

[Qapla]

A submersible pump does change things a bit. What he means by "he said my formation was upside down so he had to put a different pump that is at the very bottom of the well" I am not sure. A submersible is designed to be "at the bottom" - or at least it should be deep into the water level.

If the water is warm when it comes out it sounds like the pump is getting hot. That almost sounds like there is a lack of water down the well.

Make sure you have him check things out thoroughly.