Need help with pole barn overhead detail - Concrete next week!

[cqaigy2]

I'd not pour concrete up against it, but i understand you wanting to be able to move things into and out of the barn without a lip to contend with. Maybe possible to frame your apron so as to not have concrete up against the door jamb.

 

[DrewStyduhar]

I'd not pour concrete up against it, but i understand you wanting to be able to move things into and out of the barn without a lip to contend with. Maybe possible to frame your apron so as to not have concrete up against the door jamb.

Yeah I need to protect the metal from the concrete with something There are two overlapping tin layers, one of those is overhead door jam. If I cut the door jam up and leave the second layer of tin then I still need to cover with something. If I remove both layers then I have a non pressure treated 2x4 exposed. One person told me I should just cover what I have in ice and water shield and keep going. If I need to remove the door jam, I can deal with the cutting at that point. Tough call......not sure how I fee about removing all that tin (which is protecting the wood) for the sake of getting the door jam above concrete grade

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I'm not talking about not being able to cut on a line, I'm talking about the waviness that happens when cutting with shears.

Maybe you need to practice your shear cuts. I cut it all the time.

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks for the advice. How would you cut the tin without making it look wavy and rough? I would be worried about foam collecting water.

You need a wide pair of sheet metal benders. The foam doesn’t absorb water.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Would I cut both layers or just the door jamb outer layer? If I cut both then that non PT 2x4 is there exposed between bottom of the tin and top of concrete.

I always run a 2x2 inside the form flush with top of form for a tin ledge. Makes putting tin on a lot easier. Then I go from bottom of tin step, inside about a foot and make a slope at the door.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Would I cut both layers or just the door jamb outer layer? If I cut both then that non PT 2x4 is there exposed between bottom of the tin and top of concrete.

You can cut the outside. Get flashing to cover bare wood. J channel for raw edge of cuts. If you don't have a ledge for Tin to set on, how will you keep rats and snakes out? I only say that because you have doors. If you're gonna seal it, then seal it.

 

[coast40]

For the 1" ledge you can put some 1/2" PVC pipe pieces or triangular wood pieces there when you need to roll something in.

 

[LD1]

I have equipment and other means of getting stuff in and out.

No way would I let occasionally needing to "roll" something in and out keep me from doing the BEST garage door transition hands down.

 

[Surshot]

Watch the door height, they keep building tractors taller. I went to buy a new tractor, the new models were 2" taller than my roll up door openings. Whatever your tractor height, make your door openings at least 6" taller. You do not want to get a new tractor and then need a new barn.

 

[beenthere]

I would not leave non PT wood exposed.. easier to fix now that a few years from now.

And I always nestle in a galvanized 1-1/4" pipe for the garage door to close against. The astragal fits nicely over the pipe, the pipe is straight for a good fit, and the water sheds away both ways. Leave very little pipe exposed.
And I don't let the contractor broom the finish. Trowel it smooth so dirt can be easily swept up and the floor kept clean. Brooming lets them get away with less finish troweling, IMO

Good luck with the pour.