Need help with traction - YM165 2WD Turf tires

[mutt606]

I am currently using my tractor to mow, till a garden a couple times a year, and use a back-blade to push brush, dirt, and snow. Once or twice a day I have to pull the SUV down into the woods and use a rope to pull my tractor out, after getting stuck. As soon as I get on a slope in a bit of dirt, my turf tires (29.00 X 12.00 - 15) turn into racing slicks. I have them at 10 PSI and I still spin when doing any sort of work other than driving the tractor.

I have belly mower that I use during the summer months, but my yard is by no means a show yard, more weeds than grass.

I don't have a lot of money to spend here, approximately 200$.

What are my options?

I haven't had any luck figuring out what AG tires can fit my current rims. Can a person get a set of used AG tires that cheap? Would they tear up my yard? What size would I need?

I have also looked into chains. How much would they help? They seem to have a bunch of different designs, including standard twisted link, and V-bar type. Are they V-bar worth almost twice the standard one?

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[JimRB]

Ag tires will chew up a real lawn. My JD 870 with a loader and ag tires in back and three ribs up front gouged up when the yard is relatively dry. My tractor has a differential lock that help with spinning tires when moving manure/compost. Heavy implement in back sort of helps traction when I driving up a slight slope loading sold compost. I have to drive forward up that slope as backing up will spin the tires. Also I can spin when I am dragging to much gravel when fixing the road. I just lift up a bit so I am not dragging so much gravel. I guess I am saying sometimes technique can help you reach the tractors potential. Other times better tires or 4 wheel drive is what you need.

You look in your local Craigslist, market bulletin or other tactor oriented publications for used mounted tires but I doubt that $200 is going to get you anything.

 

[Thomas]

I ran reg.tire chains for years on turfs..snow removing,mowing etc.. work very will.
Mowing w/tire chains just take wider turn.

 

[deepNdirt]

you need more weight on the rear, Your tractor proly only weighs around 12-1300 lbs with approx half of this being on front, while useing this tractor for lawn purposes you have the correct tires, there are some tires a bit more universal not a complete AG tire but yet a better traction than full turfs, getting more weight onto the rear of the tractor and using a bit better traction tire is about all can be done, some folks load their tires with 50% water 50% antifreeze, this would be good for a few hundred more lbs.

 

[4get gto]

Above tires looks good but I dout you'll get them in the size you want..

Check these out...TRU POWER :: TRU POWER :: CARLISLE :: BAR LUG &...


Not cheap but you wont be sorry.......

 

[California]

Since those are 15" rims, cheap traded-in SUV tires might help. You may need tubes because SUV rims are a lot narrower, making it difficult to seal the bead on your wide rims. Consult with a tire store before proceeding with this!

In theory a narrower tire will cut deeper into mud or snow, improving traction compared to skating on top. (but will tear up your lawn).

Water ballast in the tires (in a moderate climate), tire chains, and ballast on the 3-point are cheap ways to improve traction.

 

[deepNdirt]

yes is a Good Idea California has, you could go with a 30x10.5 x 15 SUV tire.
mildly aggressive but yet easy on the lawn, probably should go with a 8+ply. as California said with tubes you should be able to blow out 10.50's on a 12" wide rim..... here is an example of a Goodyear ,BFG has one similar called Baja but as mentioned will not be cheap, what I would do is find some blemishes that cannot be balanced to be installed on truck or suv, I bet can pick them up half price, after all who needs a balanced tire on a tractor

 

[California]

I don't think I would go with an 8 ply truck tire. That would be so stiff and rigid on the little Yanmar that you wouldn't need to inflate them.

I was thinking more like 2/4 ply tires off a cushy expensive SUV or maybe an Explorer. Getting the tread width down to half or less should reduce slipping.

But this is the cheapskate solution if that is the only option. Ballasted ag tires or just getting the proper tractor are the only thing that could make a big difference.

 

[deepNdirt]

I don't think I would go with an 8 ply truck tire. That would be so stiff and rigid on the little Yanmar that you wouldn't need to inflate them.

I was thinking more like 2/4 ply tires off a cushy expensive SUV or maybe an Explorer.

I mentioned 8 ply in terms of being less susceptible to puncture the sidewall,
although not everyone drives their tractor in the woods as i do, for simply accross a lawn or typical garden use I would think for such a lightweight tractor a 4 ply would in fact be good enough,:thumbsup:

 

[rScotty]

I don't have a lot of money to spend here, approximately 200$.

What are my options?

I haven't had any luck figuring out what AG tires can fit my current rims. Can a person get a set of used AG tires that cheap? Would they tear up my yard? What size would I need?

I have also looked into chains. How much would they help? They seem to have a bunch of different designs, including standard twisted link, and V-bar type. Are they V-bar worth almost twice the standard one?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Rear weight helps. I like the turf tires. Traction is just as good most times, and when they do spin they don't dig holes. Ag tires will definitely tear things up; that's what they do. What I did for more traction was buy some very modest and non-aggressive used automotive chains for about $10.00 bucks a set. That gave me plenty of chain and a box of connectors. Then an afternoon with the vise and some pliers yielded a set of nice custom-fitted chains that I use in the winter or on rocky ground. They aren't too tight or loose. I made them easy to put on and havent' stretched much. The pattern I chose was sort of an "X" pattern just because one set was already kinda that way, but that was probably overkill for traction. Something that I found out later with other chains on another tractor is that the big advantage of the "X" is that it doesn't go "bump, bump" on hard ground. BTW, you don't need much in the way of chain size to make a huge difference. You'll be surprised at the how good they work. My recommendation is to use smaller chain rather than ones with larger links. I believe mine were originally made for a middling small car like a Volvo or Saab. Also, I safety wire the latches when I'm going to leave them on all winter and make sure that the latches can't abrade the sidewalls.
Enjoy! rScotty