Need Help

   / Need Help #11  
nothing wrong with being a girl - welcome to the forum!
I'd suggest 30-35 HP for brush hogging - a 30 HP machine can handle a 5' mower, a 35 HP machine can handle a 6'. That extra foot of cutting width may not sound like much, but it makes a big difference.
I recommend burning next spring as a start on finding out what you really have. A mid-April burn will kill off a lot of weedy stuff and help the grass recover if it's being choked out.

good luck and post often on your tractor shopping adventures! :)
 
   / Need Help
  • Thread Starter
#12  
Wow. That was a big help also. I was thinking of burning but didn't know when exactly to burn. The back pasture and paddock is in 18' weeds so I don't even know if I have any grass back there left. Mid April ...great...what fortune for this forum to be here.. I was just wondering today when to burn it off and look, I got my answer.

Can someone please tell me about the best hitches and such and what exactly you use on yours and what is basically never used?
 
   / Need Help #13  
Hi,
I am buying a 10 ac. farm. I am looking for a good tractor that can:
push snow if needed
do light plowing
bush hog
and possibly pull out some tree stumps....not looking for this really tho.
Mostly the first three. The person who has the place has a Millennium that says Star on it...not sure of anything else that I asked about buying, but I know nothing about this tractor or what is really a good used tractor to buy!
May also need to drill fence post holes. Can you guys help me please!

For your stated purposes, a 35-40 hp tractor should be all you need. You could probably get by with something a little smaller but as you learn to use the tractor, you'll find more things to do with it and more HP is better. A front end loader(FEL) would be a helpful tool. A backblade would help you deal with the snow on the driveway as long as you don't get copius ammounts of snow. (As a a former Hoosier, you must be about 50 miles south of Lafayette so you're most likely out of the "lake effect" snow belt.)
Pick a brand that has a good dealer near you for service. You're in real farm country so that should be too hard.. Talk to your farmer neighbors and see who they recommend. New or used? New, you can specify( and pay for) what you want. Used you can get more tractor for your dollar but you have to be careful and make sure you're not buying somebody's problem. Since you're new to this, a good used tractor with under a 1000 hrs in non-rental service could be a good starting point for you.

Just a point on safety: don't think about pulling stumps with a wheel tractor. Hire a Cat to do that stuff.

Good luck!

A Purdue Boilermaker ranching in the Big Sky country
 
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   / Need Help
  • Thread Starter
#14  
West of Lafayette actually. Over in central IN ..west of Kokomo by about 5 miles.

What is Integrated backhoe vs sub frame or three point?
What is 3 ph? I nosed around and figured out what FEL was. lolo
...thanks for telling me tho. I seriously have alot to learn.

I guess I am off to a tractor dealer to nose around...and try to learn
something.
 
   / Need Help #15  
3ph is three point hitch - how you attach things to the back of the tractor.
cat 1 is pretty universal for compact tractors (under 50HP): 7/8" pins
cat 0 is for subcompacts like the Kubota BX series: 3/4" pins
Cat 2 is for utility tractors and cat 3 is for ag & industrial machine.

3ph is a "modern" thing. before that tractors came with a "2 point" of "fast hitch" system that did not use a top link for stability. (hazard of buying older tractors)

some backhoes attach to the 3 point arms -- which is OK for really light duty digging, but can cause a lot of damage to the tractor in a short period of time. Subframe backhoes have a frame that bolts onto the tractor frame underneath - these are much more stable.

rear remotes are hydraulic connections on the back of the tractor used to power some attachments. Other attachments use a PTO powered hydraulic pump - rather than your tractor's supply.

PTO means "Power Take-Off" - it's the short splined shaft in the back of the tractor that powers attachments like "brush hogs" (or rotary mowers), post hole diggers (PHD), log splitters, etc...

you may or may not want a back blade, but you will likely want a box blade (BB) - which is a very versatile attachment.
 
   / Need Help #16  
i will start by saying i am a Ford man, but, i would not reccomend an 8N to a newbie, especially a lady. the absence of a live lift requires a fair amount of practice to use with efficiency. then you have the obstacle of no power steering. we all know there is no live power, but i dont view that as a very big problem. i've owned some, in my opinion they are sweet little tractors but not newbie material.for not a whole lot more money, or no more in some cases, you can get an old ford with live lift which started in 53 with the jubilee but still no power steering. ps came in 57 with the "01" series. most of these old tractors are well used, but if you look around there are still some nice ones to be had. if you get one that isnt worn completely out, they are a lotta bang for the buck. parts are widely available, even used parts. there was a question about the three point hitch, it was developed by ferguson in the 20's. best of luck.
 
   / Need Help #17  
Seer7 welcome to the forum and congratulations on the new place.

Something you might consider is paying one of the locals to do your initial cutting. Farmers are going to have bigger and more heavy duty equipment than you need and it shouldn't be to expensive to cut the 5 or 6 acres that aren't wooded. Once you have it cut you will have a better feel for your tractor needs. It would also be a way to meet the locals who will know the dealers in your area.

I personally would be hesitant to recommend the Millennium.

MarkV
 
   / Need Help #18  
Another good reason for a newbie to stay away from the older tractors is the general absence of a ROPS. They're a good idea for everyone, but a necessity IMO for an inexperienced operator. Yes, they can be outfitted with one, but that's pretty rare...
 
   / Need Help #19  
Welcome, I would agree with MarkV. If you can find someone like Soundguy or FarmwithJunk who do this type of thing for a living. They know to walk the property and look for hazards in the area. It might cost a little more for the first mowing, but you would be able to see what you have. Good luck and enjoy.:)
 
   / Need Help #20  
seer7
I googled Indianpolis, IN. rental equipment

Rental Equipment, Party, Backhoe, Wedding, Bounce, scottsburg, hanover, salem


TEMPLERENTSINC.COM

QuickLifts, LLC located in Indianapolis, Indiana - We Supply Rentals-Lift-Backhoe-Dozer-Excavator-Skid Steer-Lull-Generators-Telehandlers-Trash Pumps

Bobcat of Indy


United Rentals

I dont know of your area

I used Grand rental by my home and it wasn't any problem.

I have q 3/4 ton dodge to two with

Do you have any thing to tow with to pick up equipment It will save you delivery fee if not make sure they will deliver it and go over the controls with you.

tom
 

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