Need ideas on how to span 40' for a lean-to carport/patio cover

[Streetcar]

Second the idea of separate structure that is tied to original. Not many buildings are designed to carry that much additional load.

 

[ultrarunner]

I see a lot of massive elevated all wood decks around here tied to standard building framing.

I say massive because the design have been beefed up a lot now in this area...

 

[GLyford]

If the walls are 8" think it sounds like you have room to open them up and sneak in a steel column here and there. If you think it would fly, you could even run them up the outside of the existing wall, and encase them as part of "trim" or "brace walls" for your "addition"...? You say the new structure has to be tied to the existing. You don't say it has to carry it.

 

[ultrarunner]

Yep... it is to meet the no accessory building requirement.

If the topography was different and 50% enclose breezeway could fulfill the connected requirement.

 

[John Fitzgerald]

Attach it only for looks. Put in posts next to the house to actually carry the load, and make only a very light attachment (even slightly flexible) to the house for the HOA purpose. I would use engineered web joists to make the span.

 

[goeduck]

Attach it only for looks. Put in posts next to the house to actually carry the load, and make only a very light attachment (even slightly flexible) to the house for the HOA purpose. I would use engineered web joists to make the span.

If the walls are 8" think it sounds like you have room to open them up and sneak in a steel column here and there. If you think it would fly, you could even run them up the outside of the existing wall, and encase them as part of "trim" or "brace walls" for your "addition"...? You say the new structure has to be tied to the existing. You don't say it has to carry it.

Totally agree, it should be structurally stand alone, just up against the existing building. No leaning on it

 

[ericm979]

Unless you have engineering specs for the existing concrete and it's to current specs you may have to tear it out. That's where we are with our deck rebuild- the modern engineering calls for rebar in the footings and we don't know if the old ones have it. Or how deep they are for that matter. Plus the engineer wants the new footings to be square. Which the contractor says is silly, but that's now what we need to meet the permit.

It all makes us wish we'd done it without the permit. On the plus side after the next big earthquake levels the house we can live under the deck.

Since you're in the city going without permit is probably not an option for you.

 

[goeduck]

I am thinking of something similar, a ~28 wide double garage lean to adjacent to my boathouse.

 

[plowhog]

On the plus side after the next big earthquake levels the house we can live under the deck.

That is funny, expensive, and so true.

I finished building a 3,600 ft shop/garage early this year. Now we are mid-way through building a residence, 5,000 ft+. At every step of the way, I was told that everything is way overegineered which costs the property owner money, but is CYA for all involved. From the architect, to the engineer, builder, etc. And with overengineering the price goes up so the permit cost goes up too. Everybody wins-- except me.

I did a small 200ft frame construction office/bathroom in my 3,600 ft. metal building. That little frame construction thing could survive anything based on the engineering and design overkill. I commented to the building inspector that if there is a hurricane-- I'm heading for my little office building. He said "ya I hear ya, I see this on every job." My framer asked if I planned on storing cars on top of the office / bath.

 

[JamesHW]

Excavate the flat area and build an underground bat cave. Elevator for vehicles/equipment secreted under a gazebo and a hidden stairway accessed via the trunk of an abandoned 50’s hulk.