Need info on steel strength

[ns_in_tex]

I started out trying to get 180 degrees rotation on the grapple, but settled for less, and had to come within 1/8" of one side of the 1" pin, to get what I did. This is the reason I am looking for another solution, other than a larger pin.

 

[ns_in_tex]

There is no question, I did something which I shouldn't have.

Also I found out today, my Kubota hoses do not have any steel in them. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

 

[ns_in_tex]

I figured it had to be soft, from the ease of drilling & cutting.

I found an old car axle in the shop, which is just over 1" dia. How much stouter would this be than the cold rolled?

 

[MadReferee]

Why screw around with axles. Go to a reputable tool supplier, like KBC Tools catalog page 741 for instance, and buy a length of hardened drill rod and cut it to length. They sell it in diameter increments of 1/64" up to 1" and 1/16" for 1" to 2". Depending on the type of hardening it will cost you anywhere from $15 to $153 for a standard 36" length.

You could also go to a local machne shop and see if they will sell you a small hunk.

 

[markct]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Why screw around with axles )</font>


because its free, and its one of the toughest steels available usualy!! he needs a tough pin, not a hard pin. i would use a piece of car or truck axle in a heartbeat, i have made many things from them, they are about the toughest steel and most tough heat treatment on anything commonly available. drill rod isnt heat treated when you buy it ordinarily, it is a tool steel that is heat treatable tho, but why got thru the cost and trouble when a car axle will work perfect, also if it were me i would make the spacers a part of the center piece, it would help the stability of the grapple tooth and reduce the bending force on the pin by adding support, some gussets welded to between the bushings and grapple tooth would help too, but by all means use the car axle before you go wasting money on tool steel or special shafting! just remember it will be very hard to drill, you will need to cut it with the torch or an abrasive wheel, and drilling it make sure to use lotsa pressure and a slow speed on the drill press, and plenty of cutting oil

 

[hockeyhead]

I for one need an isometric veiw if the complete unit,. how much 3/4 plate do you have left? I'd move the point the cylinder attaches to higher, further away from the hinge, the properties if leverage, also are thoses black pipe spacers centering the 3/4" within the 5" span, If they are, weld them on the and gusset from the bottom. I got to go need to be on the ice @ 9:15 , will check back about 11:00

 

[ns_in_tex]

Sorry, I didn't take a pic of that view.

As previously mentioned, I was trying for 180 degree swing and was using 8" stroke cylinders. This meant, 4" below to 4" above the center point of the pin, which I didn't figure a simple way to make this happen because it would hit the pin.
I chose to try giving up some metal on the side of the pin, next to the cylinder.

That part is holding so far. Tonight I picked up 3 pieces of concrete and was amazed at how well it was staying in, so I had to turn it down to see if it would fall out. It didn't. Only 1 tooth of the grapple was hitting this 3' long piece of concrete.

I even cut the tractor off & went to the house for the camera, was still there, as you see.

 

[ns_in_tex]

This view shows the 3 pieces sandwiched together.

If something else doesn't rip or tear, I think this may be one handy implement to have.

 

[JerryG]

You can get 1" hitch pins that are hardened. Usually they are the black pins with the red handles, in this area anyway.
A lot of the smaller backhoes also use 1" pins in their pivots.