NEED info please...

   / NEED info please... #1  

ICUFLY

New member
Joined
Jan 26, 2010
Messages
14
Location
Indiana (40 miles South of Indy)
Tractor
Eclipse DT204 "JINMA"
Howdy all, I've had my tractor since 03' but haven't done alot with it, due to divorce and stuff. But now I'm getting back to it. I have an Eclipse DT204. The tag on the fender reads: DT 204 Number 21457 Date 02 5, I take this to be made in May of 2002 correct? Now for the engine, the tag on the valve cover reads: Yangdong Y20411105A Date 99 08, and cast into the right side of the block (exhaust side) it has YD380. I'm sure this will tell someone what I have but I'm not sure.. When I bought it I was told it was a 25HP 4WD.. I have some issues that I need to look into but without knowing for sure what I have it's hard to fix some problems.. I'll get to that stuff later. Hope you can get me started down the right path.. Thanks ahead of time, some very interesting reading in this and CTOA forums..

Thanks,

Dan
 
   / NEED info please... #2  
I am sure someone will correct me, but I believe the YD380 is the engine info. YD the manufacturer, 3 cylinder, 80 CC displacement per cylinder, or maybe that is bore diameter, I forget. At any rate, I think that would be considered a 20 HP engine. The 25 HP engine usually has the designation 395 The designation "204" in the name also leads me to believe this is the case. 20 for rated HP and "4" indicating 4 wheel drive...
 
   / NEED info please... #3  
   / NEED info please...
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Thanks very much guys, now to get started on my needed improvements and repairs. 1st will be the starting I get a click at the solenoid when I try to start. I have cleaned the connections down to bare metal on the ground, I need to check the clutch switch next and then >??? I think it's a bad solenoid but not sure. I can jump it over at the solenoid but not using the start terminal, I have to engage the solenoid (starter drive) then jump across the windings terminal. Then to some rewiring, only the temp gauge works right now. Would really like to get them all working properly. That's enough for now.. Thanks again..

Dan
 
   / NEED info please... #5  
Dan,
The first thing that I would do is connect a meter between the small terminal on the starter and ground. Then push in the clutch and turn the key to the start position. How much voltage is showing on the meter?
RonJ
 
   / NEED info please... #6  
   / NEED info please... #7  
I agree with Affordable if it's clicking it's not the clutch safety switch. When that gets buggered nothing happens. My 254 had a week starter also, I took it apart cleaned lubed everything and have not had a problem since{few yrs now}.
 
   / NEED info please...
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Dan,
The first thing that I would do is connect a meter between the small terminal on the starter and ground. Then push in the clutch and turn the key to the start position. How much voltage is showing on the meter?
RonJ

Just checked it and shows 10.9v at terminal. So looks like the solenoid is gonna be the culprit. I rechecked it a few times just to be sure I had good connections on my meter leads, the solenoid was warm to the touch so it's getting some juice, I can jump it over at the solenoid. But I have to engage the starter drive then jump over the winding terminal to get the starter to crank. So the solenoid isn't making contact inside to energize the starter motor..

Dan
 
   / NEED info please... #9  
starterjpg.jpg


This will give you a general idea what going on. as you can see in the second picture the solenoid in nothing more than a electric switch using a magnetic field to pull on a plunger pushing the starter Bendix to the flywheel and at the same time a heavy duty spring loaded washer that connects the battery post to the starter post. ( this is the clicking you hear). Now do to the arcing going on between the two post and washer, the washer pits to a point of little or no contact is made, that's why sometime they start and sometime not.
Testing.
First off make sure you battery is charge up, and post are removed and cleaned. grounds are to bare metal. brake on, gears in neutral.
I like to test the starter motor first by eliminating the solenoid, and jumping the two post on the back of the solenoid, some like to us a screw driver for this, it will depend on the post configuration, on whether or not you have line of sight connection. if you find that the motor doesn't turn over then you have to remove for inspection and repairs, but if it does spin then your next step will be to test the solenoid.
Solenoid testing consist of taking a jumper wire connect it to the battery post on back of the solenoid and touching the ignition key post, this will engage the Bendix to the flywheel and washer to the two post, and the starter should turn the engine over, if not? solenoid needs replacing. With these two test you be able to isolate what part is giving you the problem.
 
   / NEED info please... #10  
Just checked it and shows 10.9v at terminal. So looks like the solenoid is gonna be the culprit.
I don't doubt you, but I want to make sure I'm understanding where you made the voltage check. So for clarification, which terminal? If you're seeing 10.9v at the high current battery terminal, that's the wrong location (and a weak battery). This check is supposed to be done at the low current terminal on the starter solenoid itself. Meter + lead on the small gauge post that is connected to the keyswitch (via the clutch interlock), meter - lead on one of the bolts that holds the starter to the bell housing. The voltage will only be there when the keyswitch is held in the START position.

//greg//
 

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