toolaholic
Silver Member
- Joined
- Sep 4, 2005
- Messages
- 144
Different approach. I,m in N. calif and go to equept.auctions. Our power co. is allways dumping Good pole trailers ,and they're cheap. Call your power co. and see which auction house they use.
Need input on off-road log trailer
- Thread starter jpbear
- Start date
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Youare
Platinum Member
I built a trailer for the same purpose about 4 years ago. The features I wanted was a trailer that was narrow enough to reach across to load and unload from one side. It had to carry about 1/2 cord of green wood and be able to go over rough terrian without a lot of tipping.
I made a walking beam axle. This gave me four wheels to spread out the weight and the ability to have the trailer go over some pretty rough ground with ease. Tongue weight is about 150 pounds if loaded evenly.
The axle stubs are from a Dodge caravan.
Randy
I made a walking beam axle. This gave me four wheels to spread out the weight and the ability to have the trailer go over some pretty rough ground with ease. Tongue weight is about 150 pounds if loaded evenly.
The axle stubs are from a Dodge caravan.
Randy
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Corm
Gold Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 352
- Location
- Fairfax, Franklin County, Vermont
- Tractor
- 1999 Cub Cadet 7260, 1953 Farmall Super A
Nice looking trailer!
Corm
Corm
sandman2234
Super Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2005
- Messages
- 6,080
- Location
- Jacksonville, Florida
- Tractor
- JD2555 and a few Allis Chalmers and now one Kubota
As first posted, I think you will have more problems than you care to think about with that trailer. I think besides having to drag one of the axles sideways in a turn which requires some serious hp if the trailer is loaded, you might also have some problems with the tongue. With it swiveling you are loosing the mechanical advantage of a longer tongue which requires even more hp. Is there a reason for the swiveling tongue? Turning radius might be shortened, but at the risk of running the tires off the bead in an offroad situation.
I have a larger version of the stub axle trailer, using short tractor trailer tires and wheels, and 3x6 tubing for a frame, 27 foot long. The axles are near the back so the turning problem is non existant.
David from jax
I have a larger version of the stub axle trailer, using short tractor trailer tires and wheels, and 3x6 tubing for a frame, 27 foot long. The axles are near the back so the turning problem is non existant.
David from jax
Renze
Elite Member
If you are going in tough terrain a tandem trailer with sufficient front overhang to generate some drawbar downforce will get you further. It provides more grip on the tractor rear axle, and more positive steering when the trailer goes through ruts. In North America they seem to like 2 or 3 axle trailers with slew ring (or turntable) steering but in Europe, most harvest trailers are tandem trailers with 2 or 3 ton drawbar load since the 60's
In Germany you see some 2 axle trailers but in Holland they are very rare, just because tandem trailers are so much better off road, and they cannot jack knife on road.
In Germany you see some 2 axle trailers but in Holland they are very rare, just because tandem trailers are so much better off road, and they cannot jack knife on road.
EddieWalker
Epic Contributor
How far are you planning on hauling those logs?
I see allot of steps here in getting them to the barn. You will load them with the grapple on your tractor. Just putting logs on the trailer will beat up a trailer over time. Then driving the logs to the barn will beat up a trailer. And getting the logs off the trailer might cause the worse damage of all.
I have a grapple on my loader and when I want a log near my shop, I just pick it up and drive it to the shop. One step and it's done. I only have 68 acres, so I'm not going that far, but I've piled up about 100 cedars this way, plus quite a few oaks, not to mention hundreds of trees that I've burned.
The trailer sounds like allot of work to build that wont be of much use.
Wait until you finish your grapple and see how that works for you. If you still need the trailer after you have the grapple, then go for it, but until then, I wouldn't build it.
Eddie
I see allot of steps here in getting them to the barn. You will load them with the grapple on your tractor. Just putting logs on the trailer will beat up a trailer over time. Then driving the logs to the barn will beat up a trailer. And getting the logs off the trailer might cause the worse damage of all.
I have a grapple on my loader and when I want a log near my shop, I just pick it up and drive it to the shop. One step and it's done. I only have 68 acres, so I'm not going that far, but I've piled up about 100 cedars this way, plus quite a few oaks, not to mention hundreds of trees that I've burned.
The trailer sounds like allot of work to build that wont be of much use.
Wait until you finish your grapple and see how that works for you. If you still need the trailer after you have the grapple, then go for it, but until then, I wouldn't build it.
Eddie
Ken S.in Ky.
New member
Joe
You say you're hauling this wood about 1/2 mile in level ground with a tractor. Am I right so far? How big is the tractor? If the tractor is 25 hp or bigger and has a draw-bar it shouldn't be any problem to make a tandem axle trailer use a-frame type tounge and a platfom 8' to 10' long. Can draw ya up a plan if you would like. the main thing is when you load the trailer, is to center the load over the axles so they carry most of the weight.
Ken S.
You say you're hauling this wood about 1/2 mile in level ground with a tractor. Am I right so far? How big is the tractor? If the tractor is 25 hp or bigger and has a draw-bar it shouldn't be any problem to make a tandem axle trailer use a-frame type tounge and a platfom 8' to 10' long. Can draw ya up a plan if you would like. the main thing is when you load the trailer, is to center the load over the axles so they carry most of the weight.
Ken S.
Eddie,
I would have to drag them across a road, though a swamp/sometimes really wet area, down a grass road that I want to keep grass, and across the lawn which has to stay lawn. So building a trailer would lessen the carnage to the lawn and grassy road. This is for firewood and we will burn about 6 - 8 cords a year between two homes. Going back and forth that many times would take a while. That grapple will be together by this coming weekend and I will give it a test. I think it will work fine. When I go to work tomorrow maybe I will post a PDF of the grapple design. The trailer has gone though some design changes already. I will try to post the new design of that tomorrow.
After rereading your post I understand what you meant. I was thinking only of using my rear grapple which just picks up the butt end. If I where to use the front grapple to transport logs they would have to pretty short to get though the woods.
Another bonus is to be able to cut the top bunch of logs on the trailer not having to bend down. Helps keep the chain out of the dirt and rocks also.
Ken S.,
You are correct. The tractor is a TC40DA. I plan to use a live axle design like someone posted above. 10' long bed and tongue long enough so my rear grapple can stay on. Will use a 2" ball and coupler on the drawbar. I will try to make the design so I get some good tongue weight. If it doesn't work at first it won't be that hard to move the axle assembly.
I will try to post PDF's if I get time.
Joe
I would have to drag them across a road, though a swamp/sometimes really wet area, down a grass road that I want to keep grass, and across the lawn which has to stay lawn. So building a trailer would lessen the carnage to the lawn and grassy road. This is for firewood and we will burn about 6 - 8 cords a year between two homes. Going back and forth that many times would take a while. That grapple will be together by this coming weekend and I will give it a test. I think it will work fine. When I go to work tomorrow maybe I will post a PDF of the grapple design. The trailer has gone though some design changes already. I will try to post the new design of that tomorrow.
After rereading your post I understand what you meant. I was thinking only of using my rear grapple which just picks up the butt end. If I where to use the front grapple to transport logs they would have to pretty short to get though the woods.
Another bonus is to be able to cut the top bunch of logs on the trailer not having to bend down. Helps keep the chain out of the dirt and rocks also.
Ken S.,
You are correct. The tractor is a TC40DA. I plan to use a live axle design like someone posted above. 10' long bed and tongue long enough so my rear grapple can stay on. Will use a 2" ball and coupler on the drawbar. I will try to make the design so I get some good tongue weight. If it doesn't work at first it won't be that hard to move the axle assembly.
I will try to post PDF's if I get time.
Joe
A logging arch is still your best bet. I made one out of an old farm sprayer axle. I put a long box beam tongue on the front, and ran a piece of 1-1/4 solid round steel from the tip of the tongue to the top of the axle, and put a clevis on the steel round, so that when you pull forward, the front end of the log lifts off of the ground, lessening the drag on the log, and transferring the weight to the wheels of the arch, and some to the wheels of the pulling vehicle. I also replaced the sprayer wheels with the tallest wheel/tire combo I could find. All told I don't think I spent over $200 on the arch.
