Need Some Ideas Regarding a Drainage Issue

[davidcbaker]

What I would do is .....

Trench along the green line and insert a drain fixture something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/NDS-120-in-L-x-5-75-in-W-x-5-3-4-in-dia-Channel-Drain/1000101287 . Maybe even two side by side unless you could find something wider.

Then trench along the orange line and bury 4" (or larger) corrugated drainage pipe to carry the flow down hill towards the woods.

View attachment 573956

Thank you! I was wondering where to find something like that.

 

[davidcbaker]

What drives over it?
The drains mentioned above are for "patios and areas with light vehicular traffic". Make sure they can take what you want to drive over them. Alternatively a several foot wide gravel filled ditch, acting like a french drain, might work.

The occasional truck, but mainly by RAM 2500 HD Diesel. And the M5-111.

 

[davidcbaker]

I've seen people put bumps into asphalt paving. I'd think you could do this on concrete by drilling a few holes, short rebar vertical into holes and then put in a concrete bump before your gravel drive.

Might also be beneficial just to drill a whole bunch of (maybe 1/2") holes in the concrete to let water through to below it. If you do this, rent one of those heavy duty drills (with the bit) from a rental outfit. I learned years ago to do this when I drilled for safety pool cover securements.

Ralph

Wow. Never heard of that!

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

I have a long gravel drive that goes down, down, down all the way to the parking area. In addition to the many other ways I deflect the water in various directions on the way down, as a last-ditch way to catch the water in case anything else fails, I have what we call a swale that some call a "water bump." This is a speed-bump made of dirt and covered with gravel just like the driveway, with a very shallow ditch in front. You drive over it just like you would a speed bump. The contour is smooth which makes for a smoother ride and also prevents water from eroding it. Even large dump trucks can drive over it with no problem and once packed down hard, it lasts for years.

I have it slightly slanted so the drainage side is lower than the other side, which helps direct the water smoothly. If your driveway has a crown, or you wish to deflect the water in both directions, you can shape the swale more like an arrow, pointing up. (This would be for a case where your SLOPE is steeper than your CROWN, i.e., the crown helps a bit but the water is still gonna want to run downhill.)

 

[Sebculb]

1) Ralph's idea of a small speed bump before the end of the apron to divert the water.

2) a wide ditch Swale waterbar thing, like a depression rather than a ditch across the top part of the gravel that diverts the water to the side ditches. Gravel over.

3) half-culverts? Those are common around here and how I'd do it. Four or five 8" or 10" ones would do it and then make a little grate out of angle iron and rebar to drive over but let​ the water through. If half culverts are difficult to find I've cut whole culverts down the middle with a diamond blade.

Don't want to be negative but I'd be wary of French drains or perforated pipe in that type of situation. Looks like it could get crapped up and have to dig it up at some point.

 

[GirlWhoWantsTractor]

Couple more thoughts:

As Seculb said, perforated pipes and french drains seem to clog up quick in clay soil.

A swale or half-culvert must *drain* to one or both sides (I know this is obvious but the beginning of your driveway doesn't seem to have much side-to-side slope) otherwise it will simply fill up.

I like having a multi-pronged approach, in case any one element fails. For example, a ditch gets clogged with debris. Few times I have thought "I'd better get those sticks out of that ditch. Maybe later." Then while I'm away from home, here comes a sudden downpour.....

We got 10-12 inches of rain during the last hurricane (might of been more; my water gauge kept filling up ). When it was all over my brother called me to see how all my systems fared. "Performed as designed," I said (family joke, as we are a family of designers and engineers). Ha ha. Lot of work, but worth it so you don't have to worry about every storm.

 

[davidcbaker]

I have it slightly slanted so the drainage side is lower than the other side, which helps direct the water smoothly. If your driveway has a crown, or you wish to deflect the water in both directions, you can shape the swale more like an arrow, pointing up. (This would be for a case where your SLOPE is steeper than your CROWN, i.e., the crown helps a bit but the water is still gonna want to run downhill.)

That's another great idea I hadn't thought of. I really appreciate it. I would think that even 4 inches would be enough of a rise.

 

[davidcbaker]

1) Ralph's idea of a small speed bump before the end of the apron to divert the water.

2) a wide ditch Swale waterbar thing, like a depression rather than a ditch across the top part of the gravel that diverts the water to the side ditches. Gravel over.

3) half-culverts? Those are common around here and how I'd do it. Four or five 8" or 10" ones would do it and then make a little grate out of angle iron and rebar to drive over but let​ the water through. If half culverts are difficult to find I've cut whole culverts down the middle with a diamond blade.

Don't want to be negative but I'd be wary of French drains or perforated pipe in that type of situation. Looks like it could get crapped up and have to dig it up at some point.

Are these half-culverts you envision made of concrete? If so, are they reinforced with rebar that I'd need to cut through if I go that route?