OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
The drain goes to and underground dry well that I built.
Need some suggestions on basement drainage
- Thread starter lzicc
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Dr Dave
Platinum Member
Could the dry well be filling up and backing up around the foundation?
Dave
Dave
BuilderML
Gold Member
Sounds to me like your exterior drain was done correctly.
#1- Run an interior footing drain. Perf pipe be it black or white will be fine. I don't like using roll black perf pipe outside as it will crush easier but i see no issues under a slab.
#2-Fill your basement with stone to top of footing not soil. Any stone is fine just not process. You want stone and stone only.
#3-Drain that footing to daylight, if you can would be my first choice.
#4-Install and sump basin prior to pouring your floor regardless if you did drain to daylight. Install the sump basin right next to the interior footing drain but do not connect if you are draining to daylight. This sump basin is just in case your drain to daylight fails. If it does fail its a matter of making a hole on the side of the basin that you have against the pipe. A picture at install will help for future reference. Also fill around your sump basin with stone.
#5-Once you have installed you interior drain find a location to cut in a T and bring a 4" solid sched. 40 pipe up thru the floor. You will want to put a cap on this pipe for now. This pipe will act as a place for you to install a fan if you ever have radon. When locating this T remember that this 4" pipe will have to be run up the side of the house if and when needed for radon. So pick a location that it won't be as visible.
#6 If not draining to daylight just hook up interior drain pipe into the sump basin. As far as the pump goes i would use a sewage ejector. They are alot more reliable over an off the shelf sump pump.
Hope this helps. Gook luck with your project.
Just remember one thing you can never stop water you can just control it.
#1- Run an interior footing drain. Perf pipe be it black or white will be fine. I don't like using roll black perf pipe outside as it will crush easier but i see no issues under a slab.
#2-Fill your basement with stone to top of footing not soil. Any stone is fine just not process. You want stone and stone only.
#3-Drain that footing to daylight, if you can would be my first choice.
#4-Install and sump basin prior to pouring your floor regardless if you did drain to daylight. Install the sump basin right next to the interior footing drain but do not connect if you are draining to daylight. This sump basin is just in case your drain to daylight fails. If it does fail its a matter of making a hole on the side of the basin that you have against the pipe. A picture at install will help for future reference. Also fill around your sump basin with stone.
#5-Once you have installed you interior drain find a location to cut in a T and bring a 4" solid sched. 40 pipe up thru the floor. You will want to put a cap on this pipe for now. This pipe will act as a place for you to install a fan if you ever have radon. When locating this T remember that this 4" pipe will have to be run up the side of the house if and when needed for radon. So pick a location that it won't be as visible.
#6 If not draining to daylight just hook up interior drain pipe into the sump basin. As far as the pump goes i would use a sewage ejector. They are alot more reliable over an off the shelf sump pump.
Hope this helps. Gook luck with your project.
Just remember one thing you can never stop water you can just control it.
Last edited:
quicksandfarmer
Elite Member
That was my thought. The problem with dry wells is that when you need them most they're most likely not to work.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
BuilderML, thanks for that explanation. Do you think either gravel or limestone should work?
Dr. Dave, that thought crossed my mind last night. My thoughts are that I shouldn't really be getting much water around the foundation from the way I have my landscape away from the addition plus it's only that one end/corner of the house. You would think that if it was the dry well issue that it would be all around the basement floor/dirt.
When I do run the interior drain, which would be a good idea anyhow, if the water is coming from under the footer, could that cause me issue's down the road? Will the earth start to deteriorate underneath the footer. My footer is on solid shale so I wouldn't think so. I also want to make sure the addition is dry. I hate damp basements.
Dr. Dave, that thought crossed my mind last night. My thoughts are that I shouldn't really be getting much water around the foundation from the way I have my landscape away from the addition plus it's only that one end/corner of the house. You would think that if it was the dry well issue that it would be all around the basement floor/dirt.
When I do run the interior drain, which would be a good idea anyhow, if the water is coming from under the footer, could that cause me issue's down the road? Will the earth start to deteriorate underneath the footer. My footer is on solid shale so I wouldn't think so. I also want to make sure the addition is dry. I hate damp basements.
OP
lzicc
Platinum Member
If you look at the picture with only the blocks up, you can see where I parged the wall and also put parging between the bottom blocks and the footerr so that water flows away from the footer. That is the part of the addition where the water is coming in. I did parge all of the foundation that is below grade like that and put 2 coats of foundation coating on it. I then wrap the under grade foundation with Grace TriFlex. If you look at the picture of the deck that is now there, you can see that the deck extends out from the foundation a little over 12' and the gravel drveway slopes away from the house. The spot of the foundation that you see in the first picture is under the deck below the table and chairs in that corner.
Also, I put dirt up around the foundation under the deck to slope away from the house. I will take some pictures of the inside of the basement when I get home.
Also, I put dirt up around the foundation under the deck to slope away from the house. I will take some pictures of the inside of the basement when I get home.
Midniteoyl
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We still need pictures of the site.. better if they are of the construction.
Is the wet spot 'uphill'? What is the actual water table in your area? A 70' well means nothing. Mines 80' deep with the well head @ 60', but the water table is 6'-10'.
Is the wet spot 'uphill'? What is the actual water table in your area? A 70' well means nothing. Mines 80' deep with the well head @ 60', but the water table is 6'-10'.
Midniteoyl
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- Kioti CK3510SE HST, Ford 3400, Gizmow ZTR, Simplicity 7016H
We still need pictures of the site.. better if they are of the construction.
Is the wet spot 'uphill'? What is the actual water table in your area? A 70' well means nothing. Mines 80' deep with the well head @ 60', but the water table is 6'-10'.
Is the wet spot 'uphill'? What is the actual water table in your area? A 70' well means nothing. Mines 80' deep with the well head @ 60', but the water table is 6'-10'.
Dr Dave
Platinum Member
Is that a pipe or conduit in the first pic, maybe water is folowing it to the foundation. Were does the other end go?
There is water in the corner of the first pic, from rain or ground water? Water will flow the path of least resistance.
Dave
There is water in the corner of the first pic, from rain or ground water? Water will flow the path of least resistance.
Dave
Coyote machine
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Hard to tell from your first two pics, but it seems maybe the parge and triflex are not enough, or there is something about the water table in the area in question that allows water to seep there over time after heavy rains. I was wondering if you could allow the drywell to let water pass through it to daylight long enough to see if it is causing your issues? By this I mean for you to essentially bypass the drywell with a connected non-perforated pipe to see what happens during and after a big storm. Are your roof gutters doing their job and what are they connected to? Drywell? Run to daylight?
It also doesn't seem you have very much pitch away from the house/foundation, but with just one pic it's hard to tell.
FWIW, I solved a problem of groundwater entering my flip house by excavating out some of the exactly flat grade around the foundation, at existing finished grade; placing a rubberized membrane of 1/8" x 10' x 25' EPDM roll roofing material up the foundation wall about a foot, and out four feet into existing grade/lawn; then I threw down stone on top of the membrane to keep it from being destroyed by UV, etc. I have hardly any slope to the area, but I actually created some by digging down and away as I went from foundation toward lawn, and made the membrane and stone higher at the foundation wall and lower as it went away from same. The membrane came on a 10' wide by 25' roll for around $200-$225. I cut it in half down the middle and laid down 5', (4' out from the foundation wall). With good replaced gutters and downspouts draining to daylight it has worked to keep rain and snow from being able to find it's way along the foundation wall in crevices/fissures that must have cut their way through the foundation soil from years of inattention. I did not tar it to the foundation but may do so this fall to provide a best case seal going forward.
Show us lots more pics and explain what finished state the foundation/basement were at when you started seeing water in the basement.
It also doesn't seem you have very much pitch away from the house/foundation, but with just one pic it's hard to tell.
FWIW, I solved a problem of groundwater entering my flip house by excavating out some of the exactly flat grade around the foundation, at existing finished grade; placing a rubberized membrane of 1/8" x 10' x 25' EPDM roll roofing material up the foundation wall about a foot, and out four feet into existing grade/lawn; then I threw down stone on top of the membrane to keep it from being destroyed by UV, etc. I have hardly any slope to the area, but I actually created some by digging down and away as I went from foundation toward lawn, and made the membrane and stone higher at the foundation wall and lower as it went away from same. The membrane came on a 10' wide by 25' roll for around $200-$225. I cut it in half down the middle and laid down 5', (4' out from the foundation wall). With good replaced gutters and downspouts draining to daylight it has worked to keep rain and snow from being able to find it's way along the foundation wall in crevices/fissures that must have cut their way through the foundation soil from years of inattention. I did not tar it to the foundation but may do so this fall to provide a best case seal going forward.
Show us lots more pics and explain what finished state the foundation/basement were at when you started seeing water in the basement.
