nybirdman
Super Member
I would bust up with the middle buster and angle the box blade to clear out.
Need to bury some 4" pvc
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MESSMAKER
Veteran Member
Sounds Like a good idea.
In response to earlier questions. I think it might be 4" black pipe in 100' section.
chim
Elite Member
We started out with the black 4" plastic pipe-on-a-roll buried to take the rainwater away from the house. When one became clogged/crushed/whatever I buried about 120' of 4" schedule 40 PVC and installed appropriate cleanouts just in case. It was used pipe so the material was free except for the fittings, primer and glue. Fortunately the cleanouts haven't been needed since the installation about 12 years ago.
I used a heavy duty "single shank subsoiler" from either Central Tractor or Tractor Supply. It took a couple passes in some places because the subsoiler became an anchor for the little Ford if I tried to take too deep a bite. Dirt was removed with a shovel and it wasn't too difficult after being loosened by subsoiler.
I saw some pictures of what looks like a shovel bolted onto an FEL bucket. Looks like a great idea for planing mums or small bushes but it would drive me nuts trying to trench with one. Sorta like having a backhoe that you need to drive away from the trench so you can dump the bucket.
I used a heavy duty "single shank subsoiler" from either Central Tractor or Tractor Supply. It took a couple passes in some places because the subsoiler became an anchor for the little Ford if I tried to take too deep a bite. Dirt was removed with a shovel and it wasn't too difficult after being loosened by subsoiler.
I saw some pictures of what looks like a shovel bolted onto an FEL bucket. Looks like a great idea for planing mums or small bushes but it would drive me nuts trying to trench with one. Sorta like having a backhoe that you need to drive away from the trench so you can dump the bucket.
PandDLong
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I have put in a fair amount of drainage on my property. I have settled on using the 3" PVC drain/sewer-grade pipe. It is about 30% cheaper than the comparable 4" PVC (although probably still more than the 4" black coiled pipe) and is easier to trench due to the size. It has less flow than a 4" but that or may not be a problem depending upon your topography and frequency of high-volume water.
I had used the 4" black, ridged coils of pipe in the past but had a couple of problems. If they are used in an "open" system where surface water drains directly into the pipe (even through a grate), they will trap sediment and material in the ridges which builds up over time and once it starts, it tends to build up faster and faster reducing the flow - the smooth-walled pipe typically self-flushes clean. I also found more crushing/collapsing issues where the pipe was too close to the surface (even without heavy equipment) - even the drain/sewer-grade PVC seems to withstand outside pressure very well - obviously CL160 irrigation or Sched 40 are even stronger.
The bonus for me has been that PVC pipe is so easy to add onto with laterals, multiple collection points, selective perforation, drains, traps, clean-outs and inter-connection to Sched 40/80 to go under roadways and high traffic areas. I've expanded my horizons of what I can do with pipe and moving water once I started using PVC.
I had used the 4" black, ridged coils of pipe in the past but had a couple of problems. If they are used in an "open" system where surface water drains directly into the pipe (even through a grate), they will trap sediment and material in the ridges which builds up over time and once it starts, it tends to build up faster and faster reducing the flow - the smooth-walled pipe typically self-flushes clean. I also found more crushing/collapsing issues where the pipe was too close to the surface (even without heavy equipment) - even the drain/sewer-grade PVC seems to withstand outside pressure very well - obviously CL160 irrigation or Sched 40 are even stronger.
The bonus for me has been that PVC pipe is so easy to add onto with laterals, multiple collection points, selective perforation, drains, traps, clean-outs and inter-connection to Sched 40/80 to go under roadways and high traffic areas. I've expanded my horizons of what I can do with pipe and moving water once I started using PVC.
boggen
Elite Member
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if you can get the pipe deeper, 1" cover over top. is not much protection. more so with frost heave. (ground freeze in winter and causing ground movement) then when spring comes the ground settling back down and thawing out.
if you can get the pipe below the frost line for your area, the pipe will more likely hold up long term. and also protect pipe from any sort of heavy equipment running over area. heavy equipment could simply be a regular small size pickup truck. with something in the back. to a regular riding lawn mower even just driving over the pipe.
the further the pipe is into the ground the better off the pipe will be.
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with above said, it all depends on your "hills" if any at all. and distance between max water level of the pond. of how deep you can go. to get pipe below frost line.
my vote is calling a local "machine rental" place (look the key words up in the old paper phone book) and call a few places. and just rent a ((mini ex / excavator))
by the time you pay for a larger size pipe trencher to handle 4" pipe vs renting a mini ex. you most likely be near mini ex price rental costs.
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going to press for mini excavator a tad more. due to trying to get right up next to house. and then dealing with hill/s at pond edge. everything you currently have could get most of the trench done with tearing the grass up a good amount. but getting up next to house or building, and then down on the hill. were pipe comes out a mini ex or a backhoe would really be ticket, vs manually getting in there with a shovel and digging way a few plus feet of dirt.
if you can get the pipe below the frost line for your area, the pipe will more likely hold up long term. and also protect pipe from any sort of heavy equipment running over area. heavy equipment could simply be a regular small size pickup truck. with something in the back. to a regular riding lawn mower even just driving over the pipe.
the further the pipe is into the ground the better off the pipe will be.
==============
with above said, it all depends on your "hills" if any at all. and distance between max water level of the pond. of how deep you can go. to get pipe below frost line.
my vote is calling a local "machine rental" place (look the key words up in the old paper phone book) and call a few places. and just rent a ((mini ex / excavator))
by the time you pay for a larger size pipe trencher to handle 4" pipe vs renting a mini ex. you most likely be near mini ex price rental costs.
=========
going to press for mini excavator a tad more. due to trying to get right up next to house. and then dealing with hill/s at pond edge. everything you currently have could get most of the trench done with tearing the grass up a good amount. but getting up next to house or building, and then down on the hill. were pipe comes out a mini ex or a backhoe would really be ticket, vs manually getting in there with a shovel and digging way a few plus feet of dirt.
