Need to buy a tractor - concerned about emissions stuff (sacrifice hp?)

[Jstpssng]

My Kubota manual wasn’t any more helpful than your LS. It was pure luck that I got through my first few. Now that I know what’s going on the only time it’s a pain is when it decides to regen before the engine warms up.

 

[WranglerX]

The real issue is every tractor manufacturer has its own proprietary ECU and such and its own codes, not like OBD2 for automobiles, and they are not making them public so if you get check "something" light you are held hostage to go to dealer for resolution....

Dale

 

[deserteagle71]

I too was sceptical of all the emissions stuff and was determined to avoid it. But then a great deal on a used low-hour Kubota came up and I decided to go for it. And after having used the tractor for two years (put ~ 220 hours on it) I find it is NOT a big deal. I DO NOT fully rev it when it first starts up. I DO NOT let the engine run at 2000 rpm when attaching implements, etc. I let it idle just as I would any normal engine. Once I am in the seat and working the tractor, I do try to keep the rpms up around 1800-2000 rpm to keep the exhaust hot. I cannot tell you how often my Kubota regenerates because I don't try to keep track of it - I'll occasionally look down at the dash and see the regen light is on. Otherwise, I cannot tell it is happening. There is nothing that needs your intervention when the tractor regens other than to make sure the rpms are high enough for the process to complete. The only time I ever had a "parked regeneration" was when I was done with what I was doing and was backing the tractor into the barn and noticed the regen light had come on. So I throttled up to 2000 rpm, parked the tractor and took care of a couple tasks and went back 15 minutes later. The regen light was off so I turned off the engine.

Regarding the DOC and DPF systems. Don't let anyone tell you they are much different. Whether the tractor uses the DOC (catalyst) or DPF (particulate filter) system, the exhaust still needs to be kept hot for the system to work properly. The only difference is the DOC system regenerates constantly whereas the DPF system regenerates periodically (when the sensor tells the regen system there is enough buildup in the DPF to need burning off). Both systems require the rpms to be raised enough to keep the exhaust hot!

 

[fried1765]

I'm new here, and kinda new to tractors. I bought about 80 acres three years ago and got a low hours (200hrs) CT-28 McCormick thrown in with the deal. I've now used the tractor enough to know that I need to buy a brand where parts are more readily available.

Here's my dilemma - after stalling multiple times brush hogging and tilling with the McCormick, I've pretty much decided that I need more than 28 HP. But, I am "old school" and not too keen on pushing the RPM's up to the recommended value on a tractor that has the emissions stuff even if it's just to run the fence line. On my shuttle shift McCormick, I can idle over to where I need to go and then, if tilling or brush-hogging, rev her up to PTO speed as needed. When done, I can drop the RPM's and idle back to the house.

When I was shopping new tractors, the dealer demo'ing the tractors (kioti and Kubota) all cranked up the RPM's immediately after starting the tractor. Not doing anything, just sitting there - kinda hard to talk and discuss the tractor when it's screaming at 2000 rpm.

In addition, I keep hearing people complain about the regen, and other issues related to the emissions. But unless I buy used, if I want a 35-40hp tractor, it will have the emissions stuff. I am tempted to buy <25hp just to get away from the emissions stuff, but then I'd be right back where I was with the stalling in high grass/mahaya.

I brush hog about 15 acres of mahaya 2 or 3 times a month, I till about 3 acres as needed for planting (or when the hogs rut things up), and I am constantly in the woods cleaning up atv trails that my kids rut up filling holes with river sand.

My question... should I be concerned about getting a 35-40hp tractor with the emissions stuff, or drop to the 25hp tractors that don't have it (and possibly again be under-powered), or forget buying a new tractor and instead, try to find an older pre-emissions low hours (under 300hrs?) 35-40hp tractor?

Sorry for the long explanation

-pat-

I am a very old guy, and needlessly running any engine at high RPM is an anathema to me also.
I searched for 8 months, but eventually found an original owner 2006 Kubota L48 TLB with only 250.9 hours.
I am very pleased to have avoided ALL the emissions junk.
I would absolutely have not bought a Tier IV tractor.

 

[Jstpssng]

I very rarely run at over 1800 rpms, and usually under 1500. I’ve only put 400 hours on in the 2 years I’ve owned it for a total of 560 on the clock and while I may regen more than normal, so far have had no problems.

 

[ptsg]

Consider taking a look at Branson. It's about the only brand where you can take all the emission junk off (if you end up having problems with emissions), replace it with a muffler and still have a good running tractors without computers preventing it from running or flashing lights. You then can idle whatever time you want or need without any issue and the engine will breathe better.

As some here, I also can't stand having a full engine running just to move the tractor a couple feet or to use the loader. It makes no sense all the extra wear, noise and burnt fuel.

 

[fried1765]

Consider taking a look at Branson. It's about the only brand where you can take all the emission junk off (if you end up having problems with emissions), replace it with a muffler and still have a good running tractors without computers preventing it from running or flashing lights. You then can idle whatever time you want or need without any issue and the engine will breathe better.

As some here, I also can't stand having a full engine running just to move the tractor a couple feet or to use the loader. It makes no sense all the extra wear, noise and burnt fuel.

Branson is where I would look first,........ if I were looking for a new CUT.

 

[pattycake]

Well, if anything, this thread has done a couple of things for me.

The first person to reply said I was being short-sighted to sacrifice HP for fear of the emissions stuff. He was right - I am not going to go less HP than what I already have (28hp), which has proven to be not enough. I have read what seems to be hundreds of threads here about emissions issues.

More things that raise my concerns:

1. According to TBN, Kubota seems to have even changed their warranty policies on emissions ticking off both owners and dealers. Dunno the specifics nor the details, but it's enough to make me a bit more leary.

2. According to TBN, John Deere seems to be plagued with emission issues - heck, when I was at a John Deere dealer in Jasper (near my place) two tractors came in on trailers needing a "dealer assisted" regen. Again, increased "leary-ness".

3. Even in this thread, there seems to be plus's and minus's - enough for this old man to finally say to himself.... self, you are too old to need to be worrying about regen, emissions, etc.

Until a few posts back, I thought I had finally made the decision.... YEP - it's confirmed - buy more HP, but buy a used low hours pre-emissions tractor.

Until a few posts ago, I had already narrowed it down to two brands - a Kubota, or a Kiota. I live way out in the country and both dealers are at least 30 miles away. One is 30 miles west, the other is 30 miles east. Mox nix - (Heck, the closest town is 30 miles away.)

But now.... after the input from everyone in this thread, it appears that I can in fact get 35+ hp and still buy new, WITHOUT the def/dpf/regen stuff. For this, I thank everyone. I'll come back and post again once I bite the bullet.

Hope I haven't offended anyone. Thank you TBN...

-pat-

 

[deserteagle71]

FYI - far as I know, NO tractors under 100 horse need DEF fluid. They can meet the emissions standards just using DOC or DPF.

 

[3gunr]

I run 6 ft implements with a 38 hp tractor no problem ,I also have a lot of tight places to get into and about 3 miles of trails to maintain, my mahindra 2538 is great in the woods, it turns as tight as or tighter than both my smaller tractors.