Need to determine which hydraulic line to order

[lzicc]

One of my main tubes for my hydraulics burst today. It is 1 of the 4 tubes that run across the fel. It's either number 40 or number 50 on the parts blowup. If you look at them on the actual tractor, they look identical, but the 2 lines have different part numbers, so they are no the same. The one that burst is colored red, but I don't know if that would help the parts dealer to identify which is which. Is there something else I can look for to determine which is which?

 

[Tractor Seabee]

A hydraulics shop will probably make you one for 1/2 the dealer counter price. That is my solution to these things, hoses, hard lines, and fittings. My BX is all Parker QCs. So, that makes it easier. Surplus Center is also a good place to look for stuff; except their shipping cost becomes a negative for little stuff. I buy a lot on Amazon Prime.

Ron

 

[lzicc]

I thought about getting one made, but this hard line fits in the structure of the FEL. It's a somewhat snug fit. I also thought about possible cutting the pipe at the leak and using a union to fix it from a brake line. The line is somewhat complex the way it is bent and also has a female fitting built in the middle of the line. Here is a pic of the line.

 

[moship]

Curious to learn how the tube "burst". Was it due to corrosion, physical damage, or...?

I'm going to venture a guess the position in the diagram is accurate, so you should be able to determine based on the physical location. Another possibility is to note which function this tube is used for and call your dealer. The tube description has a numerical reference (tube 3 or tube 4 for item 40 & 50) and it is likely the dealer will be able to match up tube id with function.

Good luck.

 

[lzicc]

The tube was in good shape, the tractor is only a year or 2 old. I was on a hill with the back end of the tractor on the upside of the hill. I had my forks on and was pushing tree branches down the hill. The forks were pointing down and dug into the dirt. The weight of the tractor lurched forward hard and the forks were in the ground and my guess is it created too much pressure in the hydraulic system and that is why the tube burst. I had this incident happen before on another tractor, but it was the hose that burst. I was surprised that the tube burst before the hose.

I did call the dealer and they pretty much said to go by the picture and where it is located in the picture, so I did. I got it ordered today. It will take a week or so to get in.

 

[moship]

Thanks for the explanation. I guess it is good the tube ruptured and not a cylinder or worse. At under $60 it's not too bad considering.

 

[lzicc]

The part is on back order, so I had a hydraulic shop make me a new line. I installed the new line, but now when I curl the bucket back, it moves very slow. Curling it forward works fine. Lifting the bucket up and down works fine also. I did top off the SUDT fluid thinking that may have been the issue, but it still curls slow. Not sure what could be causing that. The only thing I can think that would cause that is if the line somehow got smashed when I was putting it on. It wasn't easy to install, but I didn't man handle it. I know when they made the line, on the bends they had to put elbows in since the bends needed to be very tight, but thought shouldn't be an issue. They did a great job matching the pipe bends to the old ones.

Any other thoughts on what could cause this issue?

 

[Scook222]

If it’s air trapped in the line it will do that. It might take several cycles to get all of the air out that is trapped. I replaced a 10 ft line on a swather and it done the same thing until all of the air was removed. I would cycle it 10 or 15 times to see if it improves. If it doesn’t I would recheck the line for a crushed spot

 

[lzicc]

Could it be that simple? I'll try that. Thanks for the advice.

If it’s air trapped in the line it will do that. It might take several cycles to get all of the air out that is trapped. I replaced a 10 ft line on a swather and it done the same thing until all of the air was removed. I would cycle it 10 or 15 times to see if it improves. If it doesn’t I would recheck the line for a crushed spot

 

[Fallon]

Could it be that simple? I'll try that. Thanks for the advice.

Ya, cylinders are really jerky & weird until you run them enough to purge all the air. I just did hoses on a loader & it took 4 cycles at least.