Need to move an 800+ pound concrete slab.

[Diggin It]

This wouldn't be much of a project for most of you, but remember, I only have a pipsqueak of a tractor.

Slab is a little less than 3' x 5' and roughly 3-4" thick. As I recall, it took either 10 or 11 80lb bags. I know I can't lift it fully off the ground. Not even gonna try. Might be possible with the 3pt if I had the right rigging, which I don't. Specs say 966 pounds, but I don't know how I'd rig it to lift.

Plan is to lift a corner (FEL should handle that) enough to get a steel cable under it; repeat on the other end. Use the cable to drag the slab. Not sure if I can do that with the FEL or if it would risk torquing something. Will probably try using the rear drawbar.

It only has to go about 15 feet, but has to be turned 90 degrees. New location is set, series of concrete blocks as a perimeter. They're partially filled with concrete, then leveled with crushed rock and the center area is filled with crushed rock.

Plan is to position the slab to one side, then set 2 x 4s to use as slides to drag the slab into place. Lift and remove the 2x4s.

How far off am I?

Ground is too muddy now, so this is several days out. Figure I need 3-4 dry days before I can start and those dry spells have been very few and far between in recent months.



Edit .....


Of course, the other option is to pour another slab for about $45-50 or so at $4-something a bag. The existing slab is sort of in the way, but could be worked around.

 

[Have tractor did travel]

I'd use chain, not cable. Edges of concrete slab may cut individual cable strands.
On this old farm, which used to use horse power, I found a number of 4" diameter dowels about 4 feet long, which I believe were placed under heavy objects. As the heavy object was moved off of one dowel, it was place in front of the heavy object, to be used again in the move. Probably 3 or 4 dowels at any one time under the heavy object.
If you have a centered hook on your FEL, I think you'd not have a worry about torqueing something. Chain that slab. You may not be able to lift it, but you can diminish the weight on the ground as you drag it to the new location.

 

[2manyrocks]

I think I'd start by taking a hand shovel and easing the ground on the side where you want to pull towards so the slab isn't bound up by the dirt. You could probably get a long 4 or 5' metal pry bar under it to help get it freed up. Then set the 2x4s to skid on.

Then I'd try wrapping a chain around the edge to see if I could drag it with the drawbar. I don't know how strong a metal cable you have, but I wouldn't want it to snap on you.

The difficulty of getting the slab sliding depends on how relatively flat the bottom of the slab is and how much it has settled in the ground.

If you go at it with the FEL, you might snap a corner off the slab.

 

[Lineman North Florida]

Once you get it dug around and broke loose from the existing soil it should be fairly easy to wrap a chain under one end and drag it to where you want it, just keep in mind trying to lift up one corner or end to much might break it if it doesn't have any fiber or steel in it.

 

[MossRoad]

Be like Bob.

how to move a small concrete slab

 

[timbatrader]

By far the easiest way to lift it is with some sort of lever under it and a good collection timber offcuts and just take it step by step until you get it high enough
but your biggest problem is likely getting it to bed in at the new location it sounds like it was cast in situ which means its underside will not be flat. How are going to shape the new location to match the bottom to stop it rocking and to make sure it is fully supported to prevent it from cracking not easy unless you set it into wet concrete in which case why not just pour a new slab where you need it

 

[LittleBill21]

don't drag with the FEL, use the draw bar.

 

[LouNY]

Lots of thoughts and concerns.
My self I'd use a chain bridle on the slab and if you have reinforced your bucket and have hooks on it.
I chain to the hooks curl out and down about 1/2 way back up to remove all the slack then start curling back to move the slab,
keep the pulling angle low and it might move nice and slow for you.
I prefer to use curling for pulling as it is often smoother and more controlled then off the drawbar.

 

[Diggin It]

just keep in mind trying to lift up one corner or end to much might break it if it doesn't have any fiber or steel in it.

It has wire, but I won't say how well centered it is vertically. I should be able to get most of the bucket edge under and it only has to go an inch and a half, the thickness of a 2x4.

it sounds like it was cast in situ which means its underside will not be flat. How are going to shape the new location to match the bottom ...

The bottom was pretty well leveled and smoothed. The new spot is currently small gravel which should settle well.

I'm not really opposed to a new slab, but I'd rather not unless really necessary. The old one would still be in the way too.

 

[71bronco]

When you pour a slab it's never perfect on the bottom. It will be very difficult to get it set perfectly level and solid where it doesn't rock. It would save a lot of hassle to just repour the concrete, especially if you are trying to match a certain height.

Jeff