I did see a big warning on the cutting wheels. I'll check them out first.Thanks for the advice.deerhunterf350 said:
That band saw looks interesting as well.Thanks for the ideas.
Still a little nervous about the circular saw stuff.
Need toothbar advice
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That band saw looks interesting as well.Thanks for the ideas.
Still a little nervous about the circular saw stuff.
texasjohn
Super Member
I think that there is a 99% probability that the cutoff wheel you got is fully qualified for use in a skil saw.
Double check RPMS, but I think all will be well...
Wear eye protection... sparks fly... make sure that you do this where you will not start a grass fire... don't ask how I know...
You just put the blade in just like it was a wood blade and tighten down. Place the toothbar where it will be supported when you make the cut.... if you don't it will pinch when you get near to the end of the cut.. just like if you were cutting wood.
The blade works by abrasion... it heats up the metal and grinds it off in a narrow slot.... don't push it... just gentle pressure to keep a good stream of sparks going. I was surprised how effective this is the first time I tried it.
I used exactly this technique to cut thru a chisel point .... tough steel... took a while..... blade lost about 1 inch of diameter in the process... that is what it is intended to do... will wear down to where you realize you need to replace it.
Let us know how it goes!
Double check RPMS, but I think all will be well...
Wear eye protection... sparks fly... make sure that you do this where you will not start a grass fire... don't ask how I know...
You just put the blade in just like it was a wood blade and tighten down. Place the toothbar where it will be supported when you make the cut.... if you don't it will pinch when you get near to the end of the cut.. just like if you were cutting wood.
The blade works by abrasion... it heats up the metal and grinds it off in a narrow slot.... don't push it... just gentle pressure to keep a good stream of sparks going. I was surprised how effective this is the first time I tried it.
I used exactly this technique to cut thru a chisel point .... tough steel... took a while..... blade lost about 1 inch of diameter in the process... that is what it is intended to do... will wear down to where you realize you need to replace it.
Let us know how it goes!
Well Texasjohn it worked ike a hot knife through butter,couldn't believe it.The cut is very smooth and it took two blades to do it.It seems when the sparks start to die down is when you need to change the blade.This was 6 inches wide of 3/4 steel simply amazing.Thanks a lot for saving me time and big money.One welding company wanted $140.00 per hr to cut this and re-weld.
Next comes the welding.I already know what you're gonna say but if I bevel it and make many passes do you think my 140 amp hobart mig can stick it back together.I made engine stands and a car body rotator with it and worked fine.Nothing near this thick before.Welds 1/4 max per pass. Thanks again guys.
Next comes the welding.I already know what you're gonna say but if I bevel it and make many passes do you think my 140 amp hobart mig can stick it back together.I made engine stands and a car body rotator with it and worked fine.Nothing near this thick before.Welds 1/4 max per pass. Thanks again guys.
texasjohn
Super Member
HOORAY
Nothing like hearing that things work out!!!
My opinion is that the forces on a tooth bar are amazingly light. At least that is my opinion, unscientific. For my bar, the teeth fit extremely snug/press fit against the edge of the bucket. takes a 3 lb sledge to unstick them when I want to remove the bar. The ears on both sides are bolted tightly against the bucket side (with the help of a couple of washers in my case). So, when working the toothbar does not slide around at all in any direction... it is very snug to the edge of the bucket and all forces are spread around and across the bucket lip. That said, make the best dang weld you can.... I'd tack it while the pieces are snugly hammered in place on the bucket lip to make sure that it is straight, etc.... be sure to disconnect the bucket from tractor/battery before welding
Nothing like hearing that things work out!!!
My opinion is that the forces on a tooth bar are amazingly light. At least that is my opinion, unscientific. For my bar, the teeth fit extremely snug/press fit against the edge of the bucket. takes a 3 lb sledge to unstick them when I want to remove the bar. The ears on both sides are bolted tightly against the bucket side (with the help of a couple of washers in my case). So, when working the toothbar does not slide around at all in any direction... it is very snug to the edge of the bucket and all forces are spread around and across the bucket lip. That said, make the best dang weld you can.... I'd tack it while the pieces are snugly hammered in place on the bucket lip to make sure that it is straight, etc.... be sure to disconnect the bucket from tractor/battery before welding
"I'd tack it while the pieces are snugly hammered in place on the bucket lip to make sure that it is straight, etc.... be sure to disconnect the bucket from tractor/battery before welding:eek"
Opps never thought of that either,that might make a big mess. Thanks again for your help.I am with you that while the toothbar is bolted and held tightly by the teeth that the weld might not have to be perfect.
Opps never thought of that either,that might make a big mess. Thanks again for your help.I am with you that while the toothbar is bolted and held tightly by the teeth that the weld might not have to be perfect.
JimR
Elite Member
You might be able to weld it back together using flux core wire. I don't think steel wire and gas will get it hot enough to weld. My 175 Lincoln would be able to do it with steel wire and gas with many passes. I wouldn't worry about the battery either. I have done a lot of welding on my trucks and tractors over the years and never had a battery problem.
ovrszd
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GaryE said:
I agree with Gary on this one. In the time it took me to read these posts I could have the bar cut in two with a torch. When you bevel grind you will clean up any jagged edges left by the torch. By now Gary and I would be sitting back waiting on the weld to cool and enjoying a nice beverage!!!
TwinWillows
Gold Member
You don't have to disconnect the battery - doing so is extra insurance. So is unhooking the item from the tractor. Hooking the ground clamp close to the weld helps prevent current damage in other items (like the engine bearings!).
Given that Mr. Murphy likes to visit @ the worst times & the item damaged is always the most expensive I tend to error to the cautious side whenever possible.
Given that Mr. Murphy likes to visit @ the worst times & the item damaged is always the most expensive I tend to error to the cautious side whenever possible.