Never trust the salesman

Dusty · Dec 17, 2006

TCBoomer said:
Unless this lift is designated just for this vehicle, I wouldn't worry too much about it. I've been in that situation many times...a stretch limo a few weeks ago...just chock the front tires(the rubber chocks work best) and set the park brake. It'll be solid enough to even R&R the trans or engine.

Even if the lift WAS just for this vehicle, you could also just use a ratchet strap or 2 and secure the vehicle to the front crossmember of the lift. Too many ways around this minor problem, even when safety is the #1 priority. You seem too sharp to let a minor inconvenience like this cause you to want to get rid of it already. Try it out a few times before you unload it for a loss.

edited to add...the only way I'd get rid of this lift is if it had the built in sliding jacks. You wouldn't be able to lift the rear axle using them...based on what the picture shows.QUOTE]

I have a rolling jack coming after the first of the year, and you are correct, it will not lift the rear end the way that it is.

Ifixcars · Dec 17, 2006

I agree with losing part of the back ramp flaps it you can't get satisfaction from the dealer. Unless you can get the price you want for the lift, that is. You can chock the rear wheels instead if you have to. I know I would raise a fuss about it to the manager of the place I got it from.

gordon21 · Dec 17, 2006

This may seem basic, but did you actually measure the lift you have now? If it is not the full 164" as promised, then you have a case against the seller. If the ramps are actually 162.75" , then that is NOT what you ordered and paid for. He already shipped you the wrong item once.

Misrepresentation gets the attention of attorney generals. This guy has one strike against him already with the narrow ramps.

About 5 years ago Mazda printed a bunch of literature and had their website shows a HP rating of the Miata of something like 145HP. They sold many thousand units that year with the literarture. After dyno testing, it turns out the final production car had something like 138HP. Mazda was so concerned about a class action suit they offered this deal to all the buyers who had purchased using false advertising. They would buy your car back for every cent you paid no matter how many miles on it or they would give you a package with free 100%service for 50,000 miles and a $500 debit card.

I enjoyed my free service and the $500. All I had to do was sign a release agreeing that the 138HP would be adequate and that I would not sue in the future for the missing HP.

Dusty · Dec 17, 2006

The runways are the full 164". I did add air to the tires, but it didn't make a noticeable difference. I have been trying to figure out how to get a few extra inches, and I think that I might have hit on a solution. The one important thing is that the tires fully rest on the runways, not any home made part. I am thinking of changing the front tire stops slightly so the front tires can move forward about 2 inches. I think that might be enough. I have also advertised it on Craig's List and a few other places. If I can bail out with a small loss, I will get the 2 foot longer lift.
Dusty

TCBoomer · Dec 17, 2006

Dusty said:
I have a rolling jack coming after the first of the year, and you are correct, it will not lift the rear end the way that it is.

That sux, now I understand where you're coming from. I wondered if the jacks were part of the plan. I wish I had the funds right now...bad timing with Xmas next week...but I know someone who might be interested. He just opened his own shop this past summer. Do have a website or link that lists the lift specs or could you PM them to me? What about the jacks, are they to be included or you keeping them when you get them? Price with or without the jacks?

schmism · Dec 18, 2006

how often are you planning on pulling on and off with this monster of a car?

why not (while still on the ground)

jack up the rear end, put it on jack stands under the frame a foot in from the end.... then the rear wheels arnt touching the ramps and are just kinda hanging out were ever they are....

(alternitivly you could add non permenat extenstions that sit on the floor in the front, drive up over the stop, onto your extenstions, then jack the front end up on jackstands with the front wheels hanging out in space.... (the nice thing about this method is if you bilt the ground-extensions right, you could place the jackstands under the car, and use the lift as your jack, because as you raised the lift the front of the car would slowly sink onto the jack stands on the ramps....)

DieselPower · Dec 18, 2006

I see two way's to fix this problem.

1) Either have the ramps extended at the front by a professional fab shop.

2) Make pull pins so you can remove the ramps after the car is on the lift. Then make up some simple roll off stops to replace the ramps with once they are removed. No ramps, no problems.

Dargo · Dec 18, 2006

I'm nearly finished, just need to do some painting etc., but I have a 2 post lift that will also act like a 4 post lift when needed. My runways are 216" long and 18" wide and will lift to 74" high.

Pardon the poor quality of the picture, it was from my phone. I'm making the ramps to be able to hold the entire 12,000 my lift is rated to hold and they will be removable so I can also use the 2 post lift as normal if I need to do any suspension work, brake work, or rotate tires etc. Otherwise, my 2 post lift will be a simple drive on lift. I can take more pics later if you want to see. The trouble is that I'm limited on the time I can devote to building them.

MarkV · Dec 19, 2006

Guess I just don’t understand everything that comes into play. It sure looks to me like some pieces of 6” angle, some gussets and a new tire stop on the front would solve the problem. The tire would actually be centered more on the cross beam than it is now. I don’t think the extension would even be carrying any significant load. Certified welders that do on site work around here charge $35 to $45 per hour and would have it done in no time if you already had the pieces cut and the surfaces cleaned.

Have you considered calling the manufacture to see what they had to say about extending the ramp the small amount needed? They may have to him and haw because of liabilities but if the mechanics of the lift are the same as those used with longer ramps a certified welder can attach an extension as strong or stronger the rest of the ramp.

MarkV

montanaman · Dec 19, 2006

Dargo said:
I'm nearly finished, just need to do some painting etc., but I have a 2 post lift that will also act like a 4 post lift when needed. My runways are 216" long and 18" wide and will lift to 74" high.

Pardon the poor quality of the picture, it was from my phone. I'm making the ramps to be able to hold the entire 12,000 my lift is rated to hold and they will be removable so I can also use the 2 post lift as normal if I need to do any suspension work, brake work, or rotate tires etc. Otherwise, my 2 post lift will be a simple drive on lift. I can take more pics later if you want to see. The trouble is that I'm limited on the time I can devote to building them.

I know that I would sure like to see more pictures! This is something that I have future plans for so I can use the same lift to service cars and trucks and also tractors and zero turn mowers.

Looks awesome so far!! What is the plan to tie the ramps into the lift? Will they bolt to the lift pads? I assume there will be a few cross members too?

Heck, if I built something like that I could move it around on a carpet dolly and use it as a pair of ramps to unload tractors from a semi when I get a load!

Really nice idea and the fab work looks great!

Why not start a new topic and show us the progress!!

Ken