New^2 Holland Owner...Almost

[deltatango]

Greetings from VA,

I have decided to buy my neighbor's tractor TC21D, it spent ~8 years sitting but is very low hours. He was kind enough to let me try to get it running, bring it home, and test before committing to buy. The tractor seems to run well, but it intermittently knocks and seems to fluctuate in RPM on occasion. After getting the tractor running, I ran out of light so I wasn't able to spend more than 10 minutes with it. I plan to bleed the air from the pump and injectors tomorrow. The knocking is so loud I could swear a rod was knocking, but I am not familiar enough with diesels yet to evaluate root cause. Are there any checks I can try to see if its a fuel versus mechanical knock?

Also, the glow plug light didn't illuminate so I held the key in the warm position for 20 sec before trying to crank. Any suggestions on where/what to start checking for that?

Last question for now. When I attempt to engage either PTO the tractor lugged to an almost stop with no rotation of either PTO. Is there a brake I need to disengage? I didn't see one in the NH owners manual. The NH site only had an owners manual for the manual drive model and not the hydrostat, so if someone could point my in the direction of the hydrostat 21 horse manual I would appreciate it.

 

[airbiscuit]

Can you turn the PTO shafts by hand? Does the knocking go away when it warms up a bit?

 

[deltatango]

Didn't try to turn by hand. I will tomorrow.

Knocking didn't seem to go away when warmed, sort of just came and went. After some reading online, I think I might have a dripping injector. Lots of black smoke during startup, so I'm wondering if sitting for so long coked the injectors. The parts diagram looks pretty simple for the injector, is it the sort of thing I can disassemble and clean myself?

 

[motownbrowne]

If we can ask, how much are you gonna pay for this tractor? Sitting for 8 years could have created some problems. Maybe nothing major. Maybe.

I'm not familiar with that model, but there shouldn't be any type of pto brake that you need to disengage. One thing you could try is putting the clutch it (assuming it has a clutch) then engaging the PTO, then slowly releasing the clutch. If it doesn't want to go, though, don't force it.

Regarding the manual, call your dealer. It looks like you can get them on eBay or Amazon, but they aren't cheap. My strategy would be to call your dealer and try to make friends with someone in parts. You're gonna need all the filters (fuel, oil, hydraulic, hydrostatic) and ideally new hydraulic fluid. So, your gonna be dropping a few hundred bucks there shortly. See if they can get you a deal on a manual or even print one out for you.

Good luck with the machine. Hopefully it'll fix up easily and without too much expense. It'll be a real handy thing to have around once you get it going properly.

 

[George2615]

Before tearing into the injectors you might dump some injector cleaner in the fuel tank to try and clean them. Also as mentioned, after sitting for 8 years all fluids and filters will need to be changed. It may be advantageous to have a dealer go through the machine first to diagnose any problems.

 

[motownbrowne]

Before tearing into the injectors you might dump some injector cleaner in the fuel tank to try and clean them. Also as mentioned, after sitting for 8 years all fluids and filters will need to be changed. It may be advantageous to have a dealer go through the machine first to diagnose any problems.

Right and unless this has already been done (I would assume it has, but maybe not), drain whatever is in the fuel tank and put some new diesel in there.

 

[deltatango]

Thanks guys, after waking up this morning I took out the fuel filter and it literally fell in two. The sediment bowl was 75% not diesel with the good diesel floating on top unable to make it to the engine. Fingers crossed that I'm a filter change and purge away from a running mill.

 

[airbiscuit]

Right and unless this has already been done (I would assume it has, but maybe not), drain whatever is in the fuel tank and put some new diesel in there.

This is good advice.

 

[deltatango]

Running like a top! Thanks guys!

Between water and air in the fuel she wasn't very happy until it was cleared. Ran her long enough to make sure she didn't overheat and even moved a scoop of dirt. I didn't want to do too much until I could change the oil. Now I just need to learn what the right inside lever is for.

Bad news is MMM is locked up, but I was able to get the rear pto to spin. Mid pto wouldn't move due to years of being parked over most soil and oxidizing. Hopefully it isn't a total loss.

 

[airbiscuit]

If you are going to keep that old fuel (I wouldn't), at least put some diesel fuel conditioner in it.

The inside right lever engages the front wheels for 4wd..

Take the mower deck off. I am guessing you can bring it back to life, Freeing up the caster wheels might be a challenge.

It is a fun and capable tractor.

 

[deltatango]

Airbiscuit, I drained all old fuel as directed. I just had to purge the system of what was already in the pump and injectors. Any suggestions on injector cleaners or fuel treatments that actually work?

 

[airbiscuit]

Here is what I use. You also see it in all the truck stops.

 

[deltatango]

Here is what I use. You also see it in all the truck stops. View attachment 457404

Thanks!

Here she is. My wife has decided to name her Holly. I am sure not a first around here. I haven't been married long, but its been long enough to know not to argue.



Oil changes are coming up next. Engine, HST, and hydraulic. Any other recommendations on brand, type, and visco other than what the manual says?

The FEL seemed like it was just able to start to lift the front tires off of the ground, but it couldn't get them clear. Hopefully, with filter change I'll see an increase in performance. The FEL should be able to easily pick up the front of the tractor correct?

 

[airbiscuit]

Do you have an owner's manual? That will help show lubrication points. Rotella seems to be the standard for engine oil. I plan to use synthetic oil that is formulated for diesels for my next oil change. Put in new air, oil, hydraulic and HST filters. I use genuine NH hydraulic fluid. You can probably find generic cheaper, but I figure it's not that much more to keep my hydro happy. Bigger jugs are cheaper. Don't forget to check oil in front differential. Check antifreeze level and concentration. Grease every Zerk. Check the air in the tires. Wash it.

You have no idea how much fun you are going to have.

 

[jimmysisson]

Not all small Boomers can lift the front via loader down pressure as I recall. Yes, new fluids everywhere. Have fun.
Jim

 

[guyw]

With my TC18, you can get the front wheels off the ground if that is what you want to do - you just have to move the tractor forward a little while applying the down pressure and the front wheels will come right on up.

 

[deltatango]

With my TC18, you can get the front wheels off the ground if that is what you want to do - you just have to move the tractor forward a little while applying the down pressure and the front wheels will come right on up.

Thanks for the tip, I think my technique was off.

My plan for the fluids was to drain the fluids and change with fresh but leave the old filters in for about 10 min to catch garbage as it flushes through the system and into the filter. After letting it circulate, I would then install the new filters. Does this make any sense? I am just trying to avoid immediately gunking up >$100 in filter right after startup.

 

[airbiscuit]

I would go ahead and put a new oil filter in right away with the new oil.

 

[thcri]

I had a TC21D for a couple of years. It was a good little tractor. I would change all fluids and I would not under any circumstances use the old diesel fuel. I would get new and even then use the cleaners as said previously. Obviously you ran into the filter already so yes change that. The knocking can come even from having bad air filters. Change the inner and the outer. The hydraulic fluid can be expensing to change so I would wait with that until you know the motor is running fine.

 

[TheMan419]

My Boomer 24 can lift the front wheels off the ground with down pressure on the bucket no problem.

I agree change all the fluids and filters. Wait on the hydro until you know the engine is working, but don't do any heavy lifting with it until you change the hydro fluid.