New 2620 won't start---ideas?

[Botabill]

I have had a 2620 for 3 years and it starts and runs without a hitch. If yours is new I'd get the dealer to fix it on warranty.

 

[ChuckinNH]

I agree with BotaBill. My B2620 has never failed to start, or run well in the 3+ years that I 've had it. It is unusual to hear about this problem so that is why help is hard to come by here. I certainly would have the dealer work on it until it performs like it should. My neighbor bought a Massey, and had lots of trouble keeping it running at first, but he is not a very heavy guy, and didn't sit fully in the seat so the seat safety switch kept shutting the engine down. Once that was adjusted to work for him, he has had no further troubles so it could be something that simple.

 

[skspurling]

I hate to ask this, because it is such a simple thing and may appear off topic. Is your PTO lever in the center position? I mean CENTERED. The lever, if bumped off center, will activate the seat safety switch. If you are not seated, the tractor will sputter and die. I bump mine sometimes, and it drives me nuts. It doesn't have to be engaged, just close enough to being engaged.

One thing I have noticed with the B2620 is that it takes a little cranking to get the cold engine to pop off. Sometimes I even use the glow plugs in 70 degree weather to get it to pop off quicker. I think it has to do with the engine design, but wasn't sure if this was normal. I am nervous about the glow plugs, because I've heard of old diesels burning them up with too much use. It could just be that the old stuff my dad always ran would have them stick on instead of shutting them off when the engine got warm. How much use is too much use on those thing?

 

[Max Power]

TCFAKE613:

Thanks for your reply. Was hoping to get some suggestions from some of the more informed tractor people on this form. ;that had experienced something similar on their Kubota. Guess that's not to be. However, here is where I stand, I talked to the head mechanic at the dealership Sat and let him listen to the initial firing and then shutdown of the engine over the phone. He sounds sure that it is in the wiring circuit that controls the stop solenoid. He says it could also be in a fuse, but I don' see how that could be. I also suspect the key switch.
However I learned yesterday that the problem seems to lessen when the outside air tempture is higher. It was in the 60's here yeaterday and it only failed to start a couple of times. Everytime I shut it off I leave the FEL bucket raised and resting on a prop in case I have to winch it up on a trailer.Have you had any more problems with yours along these lines? I WILL resolve the problem one way or another and will keep you informed of what I find. I'm kinda bummed out about having a new tactor with only 5 hours and having about 6 months wear on the starter and related components just trying to keep it running.

I would think it is a fuel issue. if it was a switch or electrical it would most likely be more consistent (as in not start ever).

It could be air getting into the fuel system. I would check between the filter and the injectors for a loose connection.

 

[skspurling]

I would think it is a fuel issue. if it was a switch or electrical it would most likely be more consistent (as in not start ever).

It could be air getting into the fuel system. I would check between the filter and the injectors for a loose connection.

It is true that almost everything on these is a fuel issue. If it cranks, that's the last part of the running system that depends directly on electric. I'm with the mechanic though. The reason the motor sputters to a stop when the PTO is engaged and you get off the seat is because the only way a safety switch will kill the engine is by stopping the fuel with the shutoff solenoid. When you shut off the key, it has to kill the fuel to shut off the engine. If the engine starts strong and sputters off, it could very well be the fuel shut off solenoid not staying opened. There are a lot of things that can shut off the fuel that could be easily remedied.

So, in cold weather, are you wearing a coat? not to harp on what I said earlier, but if it is a simple issue it would be better not to have to take it in. I like to work in carpenter jeans, and the hammer loop hooks the PTO lever sometimes. Again, the symptoms appeared as you describe, and it threw me for a bit. It is hard to think of a part of the fuel system that might be temperature sensitive... How old is your fuel?

 

[Max Power]

Every thing electrical on these is a fuel issue. If it cranks, that's the last part of the running system that depends directly on electric. I'm with the mechanic. The reason the motor sputters to a stop when the PTO is engaged and you get off the seat is because the only way a safety switch will kill the engine is by stopping the fuel with the shutoff solenoid. When you shut off the key, it has to kill the fuel to shut off the engine. After you crank the engine, you could take all electrical components off the engine, and it would run until it ran out of fuel.

So, in cold weather, are you wearing a coat? not to harp on what I said earlier, but if it is a simple issue it would be better not to have to take it in. I like to work in carpenter jeans, and the hammer loop hooks the PTO lever sometimes. Again, the symptoms appeared as you describe, and it threw me for a bit. It is hard to think of a part of the fuel system that might be temperature sensitive... How old is your fuel?

if it sputters but stays running it is not a switch ..it is fuel.

if it stalls after the timer switch engages it is electrical. if it cranks and then starts after an inordinate amount of time it is usually not a switch ...

my inputs are to help the poster.

it is a new tractor ...I am guessing the fuel is not old. fuel temperature sensitive ...wtf. (it is ...but not like you are making out)

 

[bstrom]

I've had trouble with the seat and HST safety switches on my B2620 but if they are working right and the engine cranks it always starts no matter what the temp. I usually use the glow plugs if the engine is cold and it has always started right up even at 0 F or below. I think I would drain the fuel and clean the fuel filter, buy new winter diesel and add some conditioner. If that doesn't work get the dealer out there, it's a new tractor - make them work for their money.

 

[bstrom]

I should add that after I got the HST pedal switch adjusted right, it works in conjunction with the seat switch, I didn't have any more problems with getting off the seat and having the tractor stall when it was stopped. It sounds like that is not your problem but rather a fuel issue.

I should also add that this has been a great little tractor for me and does things you would not expect a tractor this size to do. Once you and the dealer get the bugs ironed out I think you are going to really like it.

Let us B2620 owners know what the outcome is.

 

[trum979]

Update--- It has been up in the 50's and 60's here and the for the most part the tractor has been starting and running OK. It was down in the 30's this weekend and it still started and run OK for the most part. However, about a third of the time it takes about 3 tries to get it running. That is the starter engages and the engine fires-up and then imediately dies. It ususlly takes hold and runs after two or three tries. I am use to my BX's firing right off on the first try, usually without even using the glow plugs, even in cold weather. There are so many saftey switches on these new machines that it is an ordeal just trying to trouble shoot them all. I appreciate all the advice offered by fellow members and have looked into most all the suggestions. Have just about come to the conclusion that it is a faulty stop solinoid. Is there any way to check it out visually? Should I be able to see the plunger move when the engine dies?

 

[CHDinCT]

Should I be able to see the plunger move when the engine dies?

Yes, if it's like the BX version. I can watch mine reopen after about 5 seconds of the engine being off. If you have someone who can start the engine while you watch the solenoid you should be able to see it engage the plunger.

Was also going to throw out there that sometimes there's a little leftover junk in the fuel tank after manufacturing is done. That stuff can float over the fuel pickup from time to time and cause fuel delivery issues. Maybe each time the engine dies, the vibration could move the obstruction enough that it eventually starts. My first guess would be solenoid but just giving you another idea to pursue. If there is junk in the tank, I'd let the dealer deal with it as he will likely have to take the tank out and flush it.