New 2638 HST.

sspenst · Sep 21, 2019

Traded in My 2014 3016 Shuttle Shift w/loader for a New 2638 HST Cab on Spet 13th 2019.
So far i love it! couple minor things i need to adjust for my larger and taller profile. but over all its good!
I kept all my attachments & implements ill update my info asap.
Haven't gotten to enjoy it much, been sick the last 3 days or so...:thumbdown: but getting better slowly.

on another note, i will be happy to share my 3016 service manual. everything is on PDF Format. Covers 3016-3616 has service manual,loader manual,operators manual shuttle & HST versions.
also i can share my 2638 service manual if anyone wants it as well (PDF), i think i applies to the 2538 as well. just pm me and i can probably email them.

Yooperguy · Sep 24, 2019

Congrats on your new tractor! Hope you're feeling better and can get out and enjoy it soon. Post pics!

Zyvek · Sep 24, 2019

sspenst said:
also i can share my 2638 service manual if anyone wants it as well (PDF), i think i applies to the 2538 as well. just pm me and i can probably email them.

PM Sent

sspenst · Sep 24, 2019

i plan on organizing all my "Things" with the new tractor and show it all off finally!
Feels like im getting over this nasty Cold/flu. knock on wood.....

Thomas · Sep 25, 2019

Congrats :thumbsup: looking forward to some action pics.

baldyfan · Sep 25, 2019

I just bought a 2638 myself, although I have not taken delivery yet. I would love to hear how your tractor treats you.
I also sent you a PM.

sspenst · Oct 14, 2019

Ok, so now that i have had a bit of time. i have done Three things in the cab to accomadate my 6'2 and size 13 feet...... drilled new holes in seat mounting bracket's 1.25" further back. that's that max you can go!
i also shortened up my brake pedals as my foot was catching on them when i wanted to brake. about 1.5" max. kept factory brake lock lever on. and i re positioned the forward pedal to the left as much as i could. pushing reverse the forward pedal would rub my ankle a bit. all in all that's minor to me. i don't mind modifying or tinkering to make more comfy. so far i have 13 hours on it. mainly just puttering and little bit of mowing. so here is my pictures of all my stuff... cleaned up a bit at work before the white stuff permanently stays around...

bridge4 · Oct 15, 2019

Looks great! What size forks you running? 42? 48?

Also, can you post a shot or two of the brake mod you did?

I have about 20 hours now and I am really enjoying it more and more. Ordering a snowblower today for it (rear 3pt) but want to get some forks as well.

Thanks!

sspenst · Oct 15, 2019

those are 42". I kept all the attachments i had for my 3016. They are BE brand i believe.
and i took two pics this morning.

i didn't measure or take pics before, sorry.
but u simply cut and weld lol. the brake arms have to come off.
need to remove bottom dash panel, snap ring, then u need to loosen and remove the safety start push button thing, then remove left brake arm. then u need to tap out the roll pin on the right brake arm and then slide it off the shaft. couple springs in there too. needle nose pliers work best, they come off easy.
then u need to cut the flat part off the arms where the rubber pads slip on, trim off the arm a bit. clean all the paint off, weld back on in desired position, paint it black again. re attach everything. simple right? LOL
took me about an hour

bridge4 · Oct 16, 2019

sspenst said:
those are 42". I kept all the attachments i had for my 3016. They are BE brand i believe.
and i took two pics this morning.View attachment 624863 View attachment 624864
i didn't measure or take pics before, sorry.
but u simply cut and weld lol. the brake arms have to come off.
need to remove bottom dash panel, snap ring, then u need to loosen and remove the safety start push button thing, then remove left brake arm. then u need to tap out the roll pin on the right brake arm and then slide it off the shaft. couple springs in there too. needle nose pliers work best, they come off easy.
then u need to cut the flat part off the arms where the rubber pads slip on, trim off the arm a bit. clean all the paint off, weld back on in desired position, paint it black again. re attach everything. simple right? LOL
took me about an hour

Thanks for the tip! I need to learn to weld, seems like everything is possible when you can weld

4tillingdirt · Oct 31, 2019

sspenst said:
Traded in My 2014 3016 Shuttle Shift w/loader for a New 2638 HST Cab on Spet 13th 2019.
So far i love it! couple minor things i need to adjust for my larger and taller profile. but over all its good!
I kept all my attachments & implements ill update my info asap.
Haven't gotten to enjoy it much, been sick the last 3 days or so...:thumbdown: but getting better slowly.

on another note, i will be happy to share my 3016 service manual. everything is on PDF Format. Covers 3016-3616 has service manual,loader manual,operators manual shuttle & HST versions.
also i can share my 2638 service manual if anyone wants it as well (PDF), i think i applies to the 2538 as well. just pm me and i can probably email them.

Is the 2638 a TYM with a Mahindra engine?

sspenst · Oct 31, 2019

Yes it is the same as a TYM394 for the most part. even my fuel cap says TYM... lol

the seat is Mahindra's new M Comfort. very nice so far. dash is mahindra's it's not digital like the TYM.
I'm happy overall so far, just some comfort things i modified. currently working on installing my true third function on the loader, just waiting on my sheet metal guy to bend some steel for mounting plates for my valve.... will post more on that when i'm done.
the 2638 hst cab comes with kenwood bluetooth radio installed. a quick note on that... they don't install the mic that comes with the radio...... so the bluetooth feature won't work with your paired phone unless it is plugged into THE BACK OF THE UNIT......quick and simple version is the remove the 5 bolts on the roof section then you get simple access to the radio as it is bolted in! the key removal will not work in this setup! then you can run the mic wire wherever you like as its like 8 feet long... lol

mikeman1 · Nov 4, 2019

I have a 2555 and when i got it some of the things i did was take every electrical connection i could find and put dielectric grease in them and resecured with a zip tie around the connector. i also put witness marks on as many bolts i could find so i could see at a glance if they loosen up such as loader bolts, transmission bolts, lug nuts, etc.

sspenst · Nov 14, 2019

So i finally caved, ordered Pat's Easy change system off amazon dot ca.. hooked up my rear blade last weekend and enough was enough!
so as soon as i get it end of next week at the earliest i'll post pics. got my tru 3rd function installed and new tool box mounted, so a few things to show proof lol.

bridge4 · Nov 16, 2019

sspenst said:
So i finally caved, ordered Pat's Easy change system off amazon dot ca.. hooked up my rear blade last weekend and enough was enough!
so as soon as i get it end of next week at the earliest i'll post pics. got my tru 3rd function installed and new tool box mounted, so a few things to show proof lol.

What did you use for the 3rd function? Got any pictures? I am thinking of adding one in spring.

sspenst · Nov 16, 2019

I have pictures but there blurry as i just uploaded to my pc.....so ill take new ones. Most of the 3rd function i got at princess auto. Tandem center d03 solenoid valve.the d03 sub plate that princess auto sells is useless IMO, one port on each side, which makes hookup very difficult. I ended up getting a subplate from my local hydraulic shop that just happend to be on their return shelf....it has bottom ports, tight to hookup fittings but do able.best option is the subplate that WR LONG sells if you can get it, i inquired and almost $200 by the time i got it.... Flat face couplers for the front, pioneer style at the valve(cheaper) and hoses and most fittings. The power beyond on the loader valve is a bsp type o ring fitting which i had to find the right adaptor. I went bsp to jic to make hose fittings connect as its more common here with jic...or rather they stock jic stuff. The other end of the pb hose went to the back of the tractor where the rear remotes are located and luckily my local hose shop had a bsp crimp on fitting..... lol. The loader handle i replaced with a 4 button control grip from scorpion controls in kamloops bc(super awesome to deal with) think they are the same as suregrip controls i think. U need 2 amp diodes for the control grip for protection. I used fuses and relays to run the solenoid valve.(u could probably use just fuses as the coils are 1.75 amp....) i mounted a fuse/relay box under the left side step as there was room. I will try to go up to the shop later today and take better pics... maybe i can borrow the fiances good camera.. lol
Like they say picture is worth a thousand words!

bridge4 · Nov 17, 2019

sspenst said:
I have pictures but there blurry as i just uploaded to my pc.....so ill take new ones. Most of the 3rd function i got at princess auto. Tandem center d03 solenoid valve.the d03 sub plate that princess auto sells is useless IMO, one port on each side, which makes hookup very difficult. I ended up getting a subplate from my local hydraulic shop that just happend to be on their return shelf....it has bottom ports, tight to hookup fittings but do able.best option is the subplate that WR LONG sells if you can get it, i inquired and almost $200 by the time i got it.... Flat face couplers for the front, pioneer style at the valve(cheaper) and hoses and most fittings. The power beyond on the loader valve is a bsp type o ring fitting which i had to find the right adaptor. I went bsp to jic to make hose fittings connect as its more common here with jic...or rather they stock jic stuff. The other end of the pb hose went to the back of the tractor where the rear remotes are located and luckily my local hose shop had a bsp crimp on fitting..... lol. The loader handle i replaced with a 4 button control grip from scorpion controls in kamloops bc(super awesome to deal with) think they are the same as suregrip controls i think. U need 2 amp diodes for the control grip for protection. I used fuses and relays to run the solenoid valve.(u could probably use just fuses as the coils are 1.75 amp....) i mounted a fuse/relay box under the left side step as there was room. I will try to go up to the shop later today and take better pics... maybe i can borrow the fiances good camera.. lol
Like they say picture is worth a thousand words!

Sounds like a process! Thanks for filling me in though as the more I know before the easier it will be when I go about it!

sspenst · Nov 17, 2019

OK, here is some good pictures. I hope it helps everyone. took me awhile to get everything sorted but in the end it wasn't all that bad. I mean the right hand inside panels had to come off with the washer tank too to get the control grip wires routed properly but i'm happy!