"New" 2n

[Soundguy]

agreed.


some of mine are frankensteins.. even before i got them. and surely afterwards.

i have a 950 that has 7-8 other tractors in it!

i have a 63 2000 that is now almost completely a 641 now! started with just a trans repalcement when i got it. then an engine, then a steering box! I havn't checked the rear to see if it came with the trans or the original tractor.

i think I may hav ethe sheet metal from a 63 2000 and 3 other 641's under there. now.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Soundguy, looks like you're the local expert, so maybe you can steer me a little. I've come to the conclusion that all these guys that sell aftermarket parts for these old fords, the parts don't fit. Got in the front bushing for the distributor, and had read that one must be very careful not to distort the carrier, or a new breaker plate is in order, so very carefully rigged up a 9/16 deepwell socket under the bearing carrier, and pressed the old bushing out with the new one. Went beautifully until I looked, and there was no bushing there! New bushing fell right through - a few thousands smaller OD than the original. Old one wasn't that loose, so pressed it back in, I'll live with it for now. Tried to install the points on the plate, and they would not go by the front bushing carrier. Had to sit and file away the excess phenolic material so they would slip by. I had pulled the carb and cleaned it up pretty well, and re-installed. This is not the old MS, it's a Zenith. Top 1/2 is CI, bottom 1/2 aluminum. Looks like a recent replacement, pretty clean outside, but due to water setting in it, bottom half (float chamber) was really pretty corroded. Tried everything I could think of, and nothing would touch the corrosion, so I tried dipping it in a diluted muriatic acid solution. Worked very well, cleaned it right up. Got everything back together yesterday, and the old girl fired right up, but would only run with the choke completely closed. Went down this AM to show my son it would run, and it fired right up and idled well without the choke, but not having the radiator installed, ran it only a couple of minutes, but when I shut it down, gas ran right thru the carb and onto the ground. Must be a bad needle and seat. Pulled the carb and re-cleaned everything and reassembled. Gas runs right thru it onto the ground. I have inspected this carb thoroughly, and there are no numbers on the o/s of the carb. Looking @ the kits available on the internet, the main gasket does not look like the 1386 carb, but rather like the S906-8691. I hope you can tell me which kit I need, Soundguy. By the way, I'm in Pomona Park, you must be not too far away.

 

[Soundguy]

expert.. no.. but i done a few of them.

I hesitate to speculate ont hat mismatched carb. it sounds like it's a parter itself.

did you replace the gasket under the seat and adjust the float?

Points for the 9n, unless you get a nice quality set often times have to be filed to get them to gap correctly.

Most of the bushing problems i have seen are too small ID or simply crushing the carrier inserting them.

try some pics of the carb. corrosion in the bowl wont be an issue if it is not loose and flaky, and it does not impeded the floats moving.

 

[Eyecatcher]

I looked at every picture I could find regarding the main gasket for the carburetor, and finally ordered a rbld kit. hope it's the right one. This is getting interesting, I changed the oil, and the filter screen on the drain plug was just kinda jammed up in the hole, managed to get it straightened out and re-attached using some safety wire. There was no filter installed. removed the can and dug all the mud out of the bottom, finally got it cleaned, bead blasted and reinstalled.
I'm ready to install the alternator. Had a 1 wire on it, but wiring went nowhere, and mount was pretty badly jury rigged. Replaced the freeze plugs in the side of the block and dug the mud out from behind them, so when the alternator is installed, I'll flush the block out with the hose and put the radiator back on. We'll see how the rest of the tractor works.

 

[Soundguy]

luckilly the ms small carbs pretty much all use the same gasket for the halves. the zenith that fits should also use it's own class of gasket, ( not compatible with the MS )

 

[Eyecatcher]

Well, made a little more progress today, got the alternator mount fabricated. The new manifold gasket, pto seal and gasket and shift boot came in the mail, so tomorrow we'll work on that. With the alternator installed, I can re-install the radiator, and if I get the seal and gasket installed, I'll drain what little 80W90 that's left in there, and see about purchasing 5 gal to refill. Sure seems odd to me that the 8n uses 80W90 for hydraulics - seems awfully heavy. I have no idea what year the main chassis is on this thing, it does have a dipstick for the hydraulics, does that mean it still gets 80W90 in there? I've got an operators manual on order, but hasn't come in yet, so I'm relying on what I read here for guidance. Do I need to try and flush the old 90 wt out with some mineral spirits or something, or just drain and replace? The conduit that holds the plug wires is missing, guess I'll just wire tie everything together for now.

 

[Eyecatcher]

Next episode - this gets better all the time! Pulled the PTO shaft. The 80W90 has been dripping on the shop floor since I brought this home. The cover gasket was intact, and the shaft seal looked good, then it dawned on me - the seal had been installed with the lip out - the oil runs right past it! Threw it in the parts washer, and that great gob of goop behind the bearing turned out to be weld metal! The manual says to break the retainer bushing, it has to be shrunk on. Upon closer inspection, you could see where at some point in time, the retainer sleeve had been cut off in a lathe, and the shaft was undersize, so they welded the sleeve to the shaft. Gotta change that seal. If the seal is installed correctly, you can usually run a couple of metal screws through it and pry it out. When it is installed in reverse, the seal is up against the spring clip centering the bearing, and you can't get a metal screw through it. No problem, I'll pop that sleeve, and pull the bearing, and press it out from the back. I ground off the welds, put her in the press and moved it past the underturned part, and that was it. Could not crack the sleeve (that thing is about 3/8 thick and an inch wide. Couldn't figure out how to heat it and keep it hot enough to press the length of the shaft, so spent 3 hours destroying the seal and prizing it out of the race. What a pain in the *****. I'll re-assemble tomorrow, and yes, the sleeve gets spot welded back in place.

 

[GPintheMitten]

Interesting.

 

[Eyecatcher]

If you're gonna be dumb - you gotta be tough! After finally getting the seal out, and then looking at TBN posts, it's pretty obvious that all I would have had to do was turn the shaft around and knock it out of the housing the other way, and I could have merely knocked the seal out with a punch - meanwhile, 3 hrs later -

 

[Soundguy]

Yup, the bearing carrier and seal CI apart from the shaft and bearing assy, just a couple split rings