New 3-Board Fence Going up

podzie · Oct 28, 2008

I have about 1,000 linear feet of fencing to do here in the next few weeks. I've decided on treated 2x6x16 rails (pine) on 4x6 posts.

Today I went to look at fasteners. I planned on using a framing nail gun with a little compressor powered by my Bobcat welder/generator. But the largest ring shank nails I see that will fit the gun are 3"x.120.

Am I headed down a bad path? Are there larger nails somewhere I'm not looking? Should I be looking at something else for the fasteners? The 3" just seems way too short for a full rough cut 2" board?

Thanks guys for your input!

6sunset6 · Oct 28, 2008

Rule of thumb 1/3 of fastener in first board 2/3 in the fasten it to board.
I would use 3 1/2 screws the new ones with the star looking heads. Use a cordless drill and a 1.5" long bit and drive the heads in a bit. More expensive than nails but they will not pull out when the rails dry out. Those new screws don't strip out like phillips or even the square ones. Lot of screws though.
3" nails are 10d you can get 12 d 3 1/4 galvos they are coated but I am not sure about ring shank. . Drive them a little deep ahh still not enough on the far side. You could squirt some water resistant glue on the joint before nailing with the 3 inch ring shanks. That would work. The glue does the work , the nails provide clamping pressure. I have built hugh trusses in the field like that . Structures are still up 30 years later. Tough to take apart , the wood will break before the glue lets go. Better dry wood than green though. NO perfect answer , I guess

podzie · Oct 28, 2008

Thanks for that. Funny you mentioned the star head screws. We just got hit by Hurricane Ike and I boarded up my windows using those in plywood. They sure are slip-proof!

I wonder if maybe I should just jump down to a 1" rail board?

czechsonofagun · Oct 29, 2008

I used 3.5 nails for our fencing, but IMHO Texas gets worse storms than Virginia.

Egon · Oct 29, 2008

There are framing nailer's that will take longer nails.

As stated, you may want to look into exterior grade Robertson/torx headed screws. They should come in a length and Gage to suit your needs.

shvl73 · Oct 29, 2008

How much cfm does your compressor put out? Will it run a palm nailer? I jus bought a small palm nailer (SENCO Air-Powered Nailers, Staplers, and Fasteners) for joist hanger nails. Its great. It runs easily on my small twin tank Makita compressor. It will do up to 16d (3-1/2") nails. There a bigger versions Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices.
It drives them fast and you can use 20d pole barn nails that are cheap.

have_blue · Oct 29, 2008

podzie said:
I wonder if maybe I should just jump down to a 1" rail board?

I was thinking that when you first mentioned the 2x6 rails.

I don't think you would like 1" regular wood (which are only 3/4"), but I think you would like true 1" rough boards. They may be hard to find treated. You can also save a few bucks on screws. 3" are fine for 1" boards. And I highly recommend stainless steel screws.

FrogLick · Oct 29, 2008

I can't even imaging using 2 x 6 stock for rails! What are you planning on keeping in (or out)?! The 2x stock would be much more expensive and certainly a lot heavier and difficult to install. Lots of the 3 rail fences around here with all the horse farms (I have one) and they are all built using 1x rails.

firefighter9208 · Oct 29, 2008

If your working by yourself "tack it" with the framing nailer and then go back and use screws. It's a lot easier to (bam, bam) with a framing nailer than to try and hold up the board with one knee, hold the drill with the other hand, and hold the screw with the other hand.

I don't think I would use just nails, as they will back out over time. I would go ahead and use the full 2" wood. It should warp as bad on you or break as easily as 1".

Just my opinion.

Chris

Mike_Kanzer · Oct 29, 2008

Hi-
Is this fence for livestock? I would be careful of using treated wood if it is for horses. They tend to chew on wood and could ingest the copper compound in the treated pine. We used rough cut oak boards (1" x 6" x 16ft) and they work well, though some do twist alot when they dry out. Just my 2 cents.

mohrds · Oct 29, 2008

There are issues with the new *Safer* pressure treated lumber and certain types of metal fasteners. I can't remember if it is galvanized that it will eat through or stainless..

I don't work for them, but I always use Hillman brand screws. They have a special drill tip that won't split the wood, and they come with the T-25 torx heads on the 3 1/2" screws. I've tried other fasteners and they can split the wood around the screw as it dries out. Sure beets pre-drilling.

I'd recommend that you make a holding jig that you rest over the post and it has cross boards that will hold the rails while you fasten. Make two of them, hang on on each post, lay the boards, screw them, then move one jig to the next post, etc. I would only use screws because if one board ever gets broken, trying to get those ring-shanked nails out of the post without messing it up is a pain. With the torx head screws, just back them out and re-use them for the replacement board.
Otherwise without a jig, I would agree with the previous poster to tack the board with a nail, then screw it in.

I've only built about 250' of fence, but I'm very happy with the screw method since I've had to replace a few pickets and rails along the way.

Doug

podzie · Oct 29, 2008

I've got the 1" corral boards for my entrance and think it looks "okay". But here lately it's become very fashionable to use rough cut 2x6 rails. I don't usually go with the trends, but man, I tell you...these things look great!

I have a Porter Cable FR350 nail gun that really isn't the problem. The problem really is finding a ring shank style nail that is long enough to hold the 2x6.

I think that before I step down to the 1x6, I'll probably just do what most suggest and use screws.

BTW, no horses, just a few momma cows, so the treated lumber I don't think will be a concern.

Thanks for all of the replies!

flusher · Oct 29, 2008

podzie said:
I have about 1,000 linear feet of fencing to do here in the next few weeks. I've decided on treated 2x6x16 rails (pine) on 4x6 posts.

Today I went to look at fasteners. I planned on using a framing nail gun with a little compressor powered by my Bobcat welder/generator. But the largest ring shank nails I see that will fit the gun are 3"x.120.

Am I headed down a bad path? Are there larger nails somewhere I'm not looking? Should I be looking at something else for the fasteners? The 3" just seems way too short for a full rough cut 2" board?

Thanks guys for your input!

I have a $90 6-in-1 framing nailgun from Harbor Freight that will take 16d x 3-1/2" L nails no problem. I've used that gun on a half dozen projects and probably have shot more than 10,000 nails with no problem. One of the best HF purchases I've made so far.

I assume that your rails and posts are ACQ-treated lumber. Just be sure you get hot dipped galvanized full round head ring shank nails. Senco's nails for treated lumber have a yellow "ACQ" sticker on the box and the nails angled at 21-deg fit that HF nailgun OK. The new chemicals used for PT lumber apparently eats up bright coat galvanized nails in a hurry.

podzie · Oct 29, 2008

Thanks for that. I guess the real question is...Does Senco make hot dipped galvanized full round head ring shank nails in a 3 1/2" size?

shvl73 · Oct 29, 2008

podzie said:
Thanks for that. I guess the real question is...Does Senco make hot dipped galvanized full round head ring shank nails in a 3 1/2" size?

3" max, as I read it. Check other manufacturers w/ similar angle.

Zinno87 · Oct 29, 2008

Treated true 2" boards....where can you get those?

If you're looking for strength more than aestetics, you might want to consider fastening the boards in the side of the posts that faces the livestock. That way you're only relying on the fasteners to hold the boards up and not to resist the potential outward force from the livestock.

podzie · Oct 29, 2008

Zinno87 said:
Treated true 2" boards....where can you get those?

If you're looking for strength more than aestetics, you might want to consider fastening the boards in the side of the posts that faces the livestock. That way you're only relying on the fasteners to hold the boards up and not to resist the potential outward force from the livestock.

The boards are being cut for me at a local mill. The treatment is MCQ, not ACQ. I really don't know which is better, but it really doesn't matter as they only offer MCQ.

Thanks for the input! That sure makes a lot of sense!

Thanks to everyone else for their opinions, too. With you guys helping, this thing just may turn out all right.

I'll post pics next week.

flusher · Oct 30, 2008

podzie said:
The boards are being cut for me at a local mill. The treatment is MCQ, not ACQ. I really don't know which is better, but it really doesn't matter as they only offer MCQ.

Thanks for the input! That sure makes a lot of sense!

Thanks to everyone else for their opinions, too. With you guys helping, this thing just may turn out all right.

I'll post pics next week.