New 4110

[Hypernix]

Bob,

When you say "ttie the mower brackets in an "up" position" what are you using to do the tying? Did you use rope or wire? Or is there a pin hole that is usable to do this?

Danboy,

Great choice on your new tractor!

Hyp3rnix

 

[bigpete]

Danboy, that used to bother me, as well. It's only the left front corner of the deck that does not pivot to the proper direction, and it's a simple roller. I used to have the exact same 60" deck on a 445, and I ended up buying a set of "snowmobile dollies" from Northern Tool for about $30. There are three dollies to the set, and I would simply place one dolly under that one corner when I rolled it out. Sometimes I would get lazy and just pull it out without the dolly, and I don't think I ever did more than scuff the roller up a bit. That roller will take worse abuse over time, and you can simply replace it for around $15 if you get tired of a scuffed roller in a few years. You will never see the difference in performance. For my use, a belly mower is many times faster and more convenient than a 3PH finish mower. Trimming, time to start and finish, and general mowing speed are the real advantages. That's just one opinion, though. I only take my deck off every week or two for cleaning during mowing season, so it's a pretty minor issue for me. It's really a bullet-proof deck with a great cut.

 

[keeney]

<font color="green">
... If that happened and you backed up and caught the loose bracket arm in the dirt, I think there could be some serious damage.
</font>

Been there, done that.

Was using the FEL with the deck off and the pin fell out. The arm got bent up quite a bit. Pounded it back into shape with a small sledge, but it no longer adjusts on that side.

- Rick

 

[Bob_In_MN]

Hyp,

I use rope that is fairly small in diameter, but strong. I simply run it under the brackets and over the platform, then I tie it off.

I'm sure if I spent more time I could come up with a "cleaner" system. As a matter of fact the one thing that worried me is that when I tied the brackets up, they could somehow shift from right to left under the tractor and when I brought the 3 point up, I could drive the brackets into something under the tractor (like one of the hyd lines) and wreck something. I tested it a few times and have been doing it this way for over a year with no problems.

Someone more familiar with the latch kit can comment if you need the deck in place for the latch kit to work--I was under the assumption you do. Because the brackets (once the deck is removed) move independently of each other I didn't think the latch kit would work when the deck is off.

I have not purchased the kit because even with the deck all the way up, my 4010 just like most (if not all CUT's) has less than ideal ground clearance so I've resolved myself to the fact that when working on rough ground, the mower comes off. When I first got the tractor I used to avoid taking the mower off. Then one day I realized I bought this tractor as the one machine that could do everything I needed and now I sort of enjoy installing/removing the various attachments. It's like a big lego set /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bob

 

[JClark]

The latch kit works fine for holding up the MMM arms with or without the MMM in place. The latch kit is actually kinda primative in function, two chains hang down and you put a pin through the ears on the MMM arms and the last link of the chains.

Before I got the kit I just bolted a couple short pieces of 5/16 chain to one of the fender mounting bolts that just happen to be right above the arms. By luck the length of the links are just about right for holding the arms almost at their maximum height.

The kit includes turnbuckles so you can fine tune the lengths of the chains and brackets that mount to the fender supports. Even at $70 I think it's the way to go.

As for removing the MMM, I just drag the thing sideways. I have a smooth concrete pad (as opposed to broom finish) so it does not tear up the rollers. Swiveling the rollers works fine but is not necessary on the right surace.

To make it easier I cut off the extra length of those front ears on the MMM. You may have noticed there are two positions where the front support fits to the MMM. The front slots on those ears are for use with the 4115 which is a longer than the 4110. I used a hacksaw, filed, radiused, sanded and painted but hey, I can be **** that way. You could just blow them off with a torch. Anyway now I don't need to turn the wheels as there is plenty of clearance.

I can post pictures if anyone wants.

 

[JClark]

I agree with Bigpete about the MMM being a lot faster and more convenient than a RMM. Also a RMM does not float like the 60" MMM. The 72" Landpride RMM I used with my old 950 was fine for big open spaces but was a pain when I encountered anything I wanted to trim close to. It also had 4 tires that seemed to always need air. For me, the MMM works better and is easier to remove and install.

 

[Hypernix]

Thanks for the info Bob!

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It's like a big lego set )</font>

Yeah I hear you on this one!

Hyp3rnix

 

[garchib]

I have a 4100 HST with RMM and love it ! It your tires are flat on the RMM, have them filled /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I thing MMM's are a pain the @$! Having owned both, I am now a RMM guy