New 424 doing some work!

[DieselMachine]

Hey all, had the 424 delivered yesterday and have around 5-6 hours on it moving some dirt. Does a great job (for a CUT) and feels WAY more stable than one of the other brand tractors when moving dirt. Have a J-Bar box blade (economy model - it was thrown in for free) and I'm sure it's helping stabilize the tractor but to add a little more weight and ensure the rear tires stay planted I added (6) 60 lb bags of sand. This made a huge difference when moving dirt and back dragging (wheels would spin some without it). Any issues with adding additional weight on the box blade? Below are a few photos of the work I'm doing, leveling up the area to the right of the garage to create a trailer parking area and an area for a dog run.

12 loads of dirt to push up towards the house to help level out:

2.5 loads spread so far, changing my technique and now using the loader to push the material towards the house. Much quicker than picking up each bucket full and dumping. Then wheel packing after a 6-8" lift with some moisture to get it compacted.

 

[blackhecilopters]

Great pics! You'll really come to wonder what you did without one of these. What a great machine.

 

[Tonyinohio]

Good way to counter balance the loader. Nice work!

 

[DieselMachine]

The result of a few more days of pushing and forming the raised patio area. I'll admit I used a neighbors skid steer to push 5 of the 12 loads then the 424 to shape and finish. Those skids make short work of dirt. That box blade however is great for smoothing and leveling. Then the additional reach of the loader to back drag was very helpful. Still need to bring more material to the right of the glass slider but it's getting there.

 

[Tonyinohio]

Looking great! Hey, before I forget.....on my first big project I tore the hydro cooling fan to shreds when plastic drain tile flipped up and into the under carriage. I recommend you added a piece of expanded metal (heavy screen available at Lowes) across the bottom of your frame to allow air flow but still protect the fan. I ended up buying a new fan and modifying it (cut it in half and weaved SS wire around it and the shaft to hold it in place since glue and screws alone didn't hold due to the rpm) so I wouldn't have to split the tractor to replace it. This is an Achilles heel for most HST tractors - no easy way to replace it.

 

[micman32]

Could you post some pics of the screen you put on the under carriage .

 

[DieselMachine]

Tony, thanks for the advice! I could see where a broke fan would really be a pain to replace! As micman32 has requested, do you have a photo of the installed expanded metal and what bolts you used to attach it?
Thanks!

 

[versysrider]

Nice, makes putting in a yard fun.

 

[DieselMachine]

^For sure, still a job but much more enjoyable having a piece of equipment like this to help with!
As an update with a few pics, been busy the past few weekends fine grading, forming and placing the driveway. While at it we tore the front steps out which initially when the house was built looked like an afterthought, with very little planning, thought or soil prep. Over the course of 7 months the steps had settled about 2". Formed them to wrap around the front landing, with the result being a much more usable, inviting front step.
The drive ended up being 3300 SF which was A LOT of fine grade in clay soil that is rock hard when dry and compact.
Super happy with the results:

 

[scoutcub]

Wow great looking place and nice work with the 424!
I would recommend loading the rear tires with rimgaurd, then you'll always have that extra ballast on the machine.

 

[DieselMachine]

Thanks! It's been a fun and rewarding process working on the yard. I've thought long and hard about the rim guard or other tire ballast but the possibility of driving on the grass (sometime in the near future) has me concerned that the additional weight will hurt me then. I do have a little John Deere 185 that can cut the grass but with the little 38" deck it takes quite a while. No finish Mower or anything for the 424 though so we will see how it all works out.

 

[DieselMachine]

As an update have around 100 hours on the machine and have been getting a ton of use out of it. Most recent was the install of a portion of the fence around the house. 1100' have to go in between my place and the neighbors. Got the longest stretch done in the photo below which is around 280'. Too bad the PHD doesn't have the ability to put down force on the bit, super hard clay that only water and time would allow for it to be drilled through. Either way, MUCH better than digging by hand!

 

[VeRV77]

As an update have around 100 hours on the machine and have been getting a ton of use out of it. Most recent was the install of a portion of the fence around the house. 1100' have to go in between my place and the neighbors. Got the longest stretch done in the photo below which is around 280'. Too bad the PHD doesn't have the ability to put down force on the bit, super hard clay that only water and time would allow for it to be drilled through. Either way, MUCH better than digging by hand!

View attachment 519377
View attachment 519378

That's a great looking fence, nice job! I have this same tractor and I've been researching my PhD (haha) for an upcoming fence project. Did you get the Yanmar model for this tractor, or something else? I'm realizing there are a lot of options with respect to matching size, gear ratio, and auger diameter with your tractor. Just wondering what you're using.

 

[DieselMachine]

Thanks! Rather slow going due to the hardpan and the need to drill what you could, add water, drill some more...repeat. I used a speeco field master, compact phd. It worked well. Broke a few sheer pin bolts but it handled the abuse well. Will need a new set of cutters for the 9" auger. They got pretty warn down from the 35 ish posts, along with the other holes I've dug. The phd has also seen a lot of use to dig a line of holes to help form a trench in multiple areas throughout the yard. Much easier to dig pre-loosened dirt .

 

[DieselMachine]

Tractors been getting more use: regraded my buddies cabin drive with 3 fresh loads of recycled asphalt. The box scraper is great for this type of work.

Finally gave in and purchased a pair of bucket forks also. Loading/unloading fencing materials was the initial task, now it'll be used to move small pallet loads of landscaping block (can't lift a ton with how far out they stick past the bucket pin, but it's better than moving by hand).

 

[VeRV77]

Tractors been getting more use: regraded my buddies cabin drive with 3 fresh loads of recycled asphalt. The box scraper is great for this type of work.
View attachment 519684
Finally gave in and purchased a pair of bucket forks also. Loading/unloading fencing materials was the initial task, now it'll be used to move small pallet loads of landscaping block (can't lift a ton with how far out they stick past the bucket pin, but it's better than moving by hand).
View attachment 519685

That's some pretty country you have there in CO! Driveway looks great. It's nice when your tractor helps you lend a hand to friends. I looked through your posts and if you mentioned the size of your box blade, I couldn't find it. I've heard it said you should get one slightly wider than your tractor - for us 424 owners, that could mean 60", but maybe 65" (I've seen some 65"s for sale) or who knows even 72" but I think that's pushing it. Since you've obviously put yours through the paces, what are your thoughts?

 

[DieselMachine]

Sorry for the late response but to answer your question I'm running a 5' blade and would not want to go much wider than that, if any. In saying that the blade width probably also depends greatly on the soil type you will be working in. Wider may be ok for softer ground, 5' for very hard ground. In my extremely hard dry clay, It's not bad if you are using the front or rear blade to push/pull loose material, but if you have to use the teeth to cut, it can really be a chore to break through any native, undisturbed soil. Now, a wider blade would have been helpful in winter when the tractor was used to push snow with the rear blade, outfitted with a piece of 2" pvc mounted over the blade edge ( a slit was ripped into the pipe). In that scenario it would have pushed a 6' blade no problem. It's all about conditions and what you are trying to accomplish with the materials you are working with. Hope this helps.

 

[VeRV77]

Yes, that is great info, thanks! I'm leaning towards a 60 inch.

 

[DieselMachine]

More fencing complete. I’ll say that getting a new set of cutting edges is crucial in keeping the auger progressing downward. The warn down teeth just spin on top of the hard pan as they get warn to the point there is too much surface area on the bottom edge and the lack of a good square edge on the outside of the auger to bite from. The speeco edges are about $15/each which seems expensive for a little piece of flat stock with a beveled edge but are worth it from a productivity stand point.
Section with (4) 7-8’ gate panels:

 

[Tonyinohio]

Just curious have you tried sharpening them? I have the same issue but have a professional mower blade sharpener so i wonder if i can secure them somehow to stay out of the ER but dress an edge.