New 4310 and have questions!

Tom4310 · Dec 11, 2004

I just bought a used (24 hours on it) 4310 eHydro, 430 FEL, R4s, 48 BH and RB1072 blade about a week ago. I know this sounds seedy but I bought it from my wife's friend. Her husband bought it new ($30,000) and used it three times. He got sick and died about a year ago. The tractor sat for about a year and the wife offered it me for $15,000. Needless to say, I jumped on it and absolutely love it. I know I am gloating but I just can't say enough about this tractor. I was out in the cold rain today playing with the BH digging up tree stumps.

I live in rural NE Oregon at the foothills of a mountain. I have 10 acres of timber and the terrain is hilly. I am concerned about tipping, especially with the BH attached. Will filling the tires help hold it to the ground? Is this something I can do or do I have to have the dealer or tire company do this? How much of a problem with flats, etc. I need to be concerned with freezing also. Also, how long do I use the preheat to start in cold weather. I looked in the manual and it doesn't say how long to keep the key pushed in. I want to remove the BH and install the blade but don't have the BH manual. Any tips or info to help.

Thanks, Tom /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

RoyJackson · Dec 11, 2004

That backhoe adds a lot of weight above the COG. I'm sure you want it off before you take the tractor in the timbered acres.

First thing I'd do is get to your local dealer and get a manual (I'm assuming this is a Deere #47 or #48 backhoe). If it's an aftermarket 'hoe, do a web search for their web site.

For the tractor cold weather starting...about twenty seconds should do it. That's what I do..and count the seconds or time it with your watch.

Before you fill the tires, make sure that's advisable with the backhoe. Filling the tires and the 'hoe installed would be mighty heavy on that rear axle. You might have to go to wheel weights instead so you can remove them when the 'hoe is installed.

As far as filling the tires, you can do it. Or call around your local dealers for advice as to who can do it for you. It isn't too tough a process and has been described numerous times on TBN. If you want to do it, PM me and I'll describe the tools you'll need and the process.

rockyridgefarm · Dec 11, 2004

Congrats on an awesome machine.

You can find the owners manuals online at Deere.com. You will need the manual to figure out the backhoe removal...

You can load the tires yourself with washer fluid, or antifreeze. They aren't as heavy as the official stuff, but heavy enough. Napa, tractor supply and others sell a fill adapter. Other options are Rimguard (beetjuice) or foam, but they are a lot more. Foam will totally eliminate flats... I used antifreeze solution which a car dealer was only too happy for me to haul off, they have to pay to dispose of it...

Have fun!

rockyridgefarm · Dec 11, 2004

No worries about tire ballast with the hoe... Its required!

Tom4310 · Dec 11, 2004

It is a JD 48 BH, in beautiful green. I did find the BH manual online and will attempt the removal tomorrow. Thanks for the preheat info too.

One reply ok to fill tires with BH attached, one reply too heavy for axle. I am just asking out of ignorance but how does filled tires add weight to the axle itself. I can see how it would add weight to the rear of the tractor but isn't the weight of the filled tire directly pushing against the ground? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Thanks again for all your replies. I can be comfortable in this forum in saying that I really love my John Deere!!

beenthere · Dec 11, 2004

Yes, it is directly to the ground when in the tire. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Dave4410 · Dec 11, 2004

How do you figure loading the rear tires adds axle weight and wheel weights don't? I think you've got it backwards!

Dave4410 · Dec 11, 2004

I've been using my 4410 & 48 hoe on some hilly terrain and haven't ever felt the need to fill the tires. You don't have to worry about the stability of the machine when using the hoe as long as you're using your stabilizers and loader bucket to keep it in place. As long as you're using your head when you're moving the machine around it's not easy to roll it over. When you're not in the trees and you want to be extra cautious, you can keep your stabilizers just off the ground and your loader bucket down low while you're moving the tractor around on a hill.

Tom4310 · Dec 11, 2004

Thanks Dave4410 for the info. I tried the stablizer trick today when I removed a stump. I am sure it was ok but it made me feel better to drive on the hill with the stablizer out. I didn't know the pads flipped over for concrete/asphalt and the other for dirt etc. Much to learn on this. What rpm do you have the engine set at when operating the BH? I am learning and trying not to jerk the hoe around but don't want the engine rpm too low. Thanks again. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Dave4410 · Dec 11, 2004

I actually run the engine a little slower than I should, 1800-2000. Afterward, you can rev-it-up when you're moving the tractor or using the loader to keep the engine cleaned out. I find that unless I really need the extra rpms, such as when popping a large stump, the hoe is easier to control at lower rpms. The tractor takes less of a beating as well. Speaking of that, it's a good idea to get your front tires off the ground with the loader bucket, if the terrain allows it, to avoid the stress that operating the hoe can put on the front end.